But he's not recreating outdoor conditions He's controlling all aspects of the plant's environment himself, that's the beauty of indoor growing, you can control watering and nutes and pH without being at the mercy of the weather. Plants absorb water throught their roots, misting is pointless and can result in many problems. It also wouldn't make a significant difference to your humidity. Yes, you do need a proper pH pen to monitor it. The strips and other methods are pretty unreliable. Well assuming your plants are already locking out nutes due to your high pH, then you only need to fix your pH once now and then each time you water you can test it and adjust it if necessary. If you are cconcerned about that then it can't hurt to do a flush, then start fresh with low strength nutes and correct pH. Are they in an over watered state (droopy and soaking soil) now? If not then don't worry, get your pH sorted out then you can leave her again for a few days before she gets more water. You are right to be cautious of over watering, plants don't like being drowned and they need air as well as water, but it takes quite a lot of water to get them to the point of no return. Drainage is the key, do you have good holes at the bottom of the pot? Try to avoid her 'sitting' in water. I think you are so aware of it that it would never happen anyway. If you need to flush her and she's not already in an over watered state, do it with pH adjusted water, 3 x the aamount of soil you've got and then sit back and let the soil dry out again, it would take this longg to see results anyway. Remember old leaves will not repair themselves, you are looking for healthy new growth. Edit: No new nutes until pH is stabilized! If you ddon't monitor pH it is possible to get away with it, it is also possible that this shit can happen. I don't think telling the Op what he 'should have done' is going to help him at this stage.
You need not critique what i said - just help the man in need if you can. And yes plants take water through the roots but if they are shocked or damaged P protein will be released causing blocks in your phloem an possibly xylem. I was not implying water is taken up by leaves but it helps for transpiration meaning stomata may stay open longer allowing more C02 in for carbon fixation.
It's not about being critical of what you said, it's about the pursuit of making his plant healthy, I am yet to see how anything you have said helps the OP, the last lot of info in your last post for instance, bears no relation to his problem or how to solve it. Indeed the one thing you told him you don't pay attention to (pH) is where his problem lies. I have no issue with you, only that bad advice can kill somebodies plant and challenging said bad advice is the nature of forum etiquette, to debate and find answers. I am simply offering an alternative to your perspective, it is up to the op to decide how he will proceed. If you want to stay in GC you will need to get used to the fact that sometimes, people will disagree with your perspective.
hey, its at somepoint a P issue, that red/purp at the base of the leaves is the first sign yer P defficient, then they start to turn blueish/droop, then dead tips, then spots and so on. sorry, didn't bother reading most of the other posts, just looked at yer pics, friend of mine had same problem, jorge's book helped him diagnose, its very very worth the like 20bucks, good luck
I have a bay 11 outdoor plant about 6 weeks in to flowering my leafs are turning bluish and she has no smell she was damaged by thieves but has mad a recovery I am puzzled and feedback would be appreciated I will post a pic