DIY Magic Flight Launch Box...

Discussion in 'DIY and Homemade' started by dragonriot, Mar 3, 2010.

  1. 1.2v and 2000mAh is the minimum. Surface area of the screen makes a huge difference... adding a half inch in width can lower the temperature by 100 degrees or more. I'm thinking 2" square is the largest you'd want to start with, and realize that it only heats the screen between the wires, but by convection, the whole screen will heat up, which will make you lose heat in the middle.
     

  2. Buy it then build a bigger desktop unit. No matter what you build it probably wont be as small and just solid all around as this thing. It's $99 with 2nd day air free. Can't go wrong. I'm glad I have mine, but I still want to build a larger scale one.
     

  3. True, my bad, but you get the idea lol
     
  4. Yeah i am getting it lol. off vapeworld in like a week or 2
     
  5. Anyone completed the project yet? :hello:

    It would be a riot if someone has an exploded view of the internal cxt.

    Seems like there is a thin bottom glued, and sanded together with the top part.

    Would like to know how the ?glass? LED is wired/attached to the rails.

    Simplicity rulzs.
     
  6. i made a prototype with a c battery a while ago ot enough power but it got hot ima try again with more power when i get bored one day maybe today haha
     
  7. PHYSICS BRO!

    calculate the needed resistance etc and then make your resistor! (heating element)
     
  8. I always thought someone could just make one after first seeing them-
     
  9. So anybody end up doing this? I'm really trying to figure out what parts i need to go get from home depot haha. One thing im wondering is what kind of screen is that? And what kind of light... Other than that i think its just a matter of replicating the dimensions, wire positioning and gauge... Though also, not too sure how they get the screen in there like that
     
  10. I would be worried that the operating temperature of the vaporized would get too close or exceed the melting point of the solder used to fix the screen to the bars. Honestly I think your barking up the wrong tree here...
     
  11. Didn't even think of that... Would have to use high melting point solder
     
  12. if anyone was wondering here is how the mflb works. [​IMG]
    the copper wire costs around $2 the block of wood was $2 and home depot can cut it down for you. the steel screen is $2 bucks, and the tubing is less than a dollar. the only part of the build that will cost you any real money are the rechargeable batteries. also the plexiglas screen can be bought at an arts and crafts store prices vary but you can get 4 of those for 5 bucks.
    the copper wire simply connects to both terminals of the battery(i assume the one that touches the side runs the current up to - terminal) and the current between it runs through the steel screen, which heats the herb. I hope this helps.

    ignore my measurements i was purely guessing how big the mflb is. also my battery is smaller than it should be but you get the point.
     
  13. #33 RWK Nova, Jul 13, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 13, 2010
    Thank you someone posted an update I too want to do this anyone want to put up more info I don't want to fuck myself over when using my home made one because I didn't know what to do.


    edit. I just paid more attention to it and Im actually thinking about doing this this week.
    What wire should I get and stuff
     
  14. I think you would need copper wire. But you should check and make sure its the same gauge wire, i'm sure that's relevant to how quickly it would heat up, etc.

    So what are your guesses to how to connect the copper wire to the mesh screen? also how do you think they attach the screen to the wooden box.
     
  15. you dont have to connect it.
     
  16. As in you don't need to connect the screen to the wood? Or you don't need to connect it to the wire?

    I couldn't imagine not connecting to the wire, how would it conduct then?
     
  17. well more of a test run idea. as long as the wire is touching the screen it will conduct electricity. couldn't you theoretically strip the wire back for like an inch or so and then weave it back and forth through the screen on one side. then do it on the other side?
     
  18. Maybe try to flatten out the copper wires by tapping them with a small hammer and then weave them like Chubbs suggested?
     
  19. The screen would definitely be much to fine to weave that size wire through it.

    So problem 1: connecting wire to screen

    Another problem... how about that light? How does that one work
     
  20. I cant think of a way to attach that screen to the wires with out soldering. But thats bad it wont stick well and the risk of having it melt is too great. I think the launch box ones are welded on some how since every thing is steel in that setup.
     

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