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leaf edges curl upwards and end tips are turning brown, mg?


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#1
MNPN

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My plants just started flowering, for a week or so now the serretions on the edges of the leaves have been curled upwards and now the very tips of the leaves are turning brown.

The plants are under 4 26w GE Reveal CFLs and are in a mix of potting soil, vermiculate/perlite, and EWCs. have added soil ammendments: blood meal, high P bat guano, kelp meal, and some dolomitic garden lime. water every few days and have given 1 AACT with EWCs, kelp meal and molasses. I have had some ph trouble in the past with the ph being too high.

I kinda feel like thier showing a mg deficiency but from what I understand the garden lime is supposed to have plenty of that. Any help would be greatly appreciated.:wave:

#2
MNPN

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I could really use some advice here, problems are getting worse, the curling is more exaggerated and the crispy tips are speading to the edges of the plant. here is a picture, the brown is difficult to see under the reddish lights. Again, I think (Im pretty new to this) that it could be a mg lockout because of excess phosphourus, potassium, or calcium from my tap water, none of which would surprise me. I went a little heavy on the kelp meal and the guano and while I aerate my tap water to remove chlorine I dont think it gets rid of calcium.

Ive also considered potassium deficiency caused by perspiration in low humidity and have also heard that this can be locked out by calcium.

Mg and K are the only things I could find whose deficiencies show the symptoms of curled and browned leaf edges.

Ive tried to do my homework here but this is my first grow and Im just not familiar with what these defs look like, and the pictures and descriptions Ive found are often very ambiguous and inconsistent. could someone throw me a bone here? My babies are hurtin and thier buds arent growing like they should be.

Attached Thumbnails

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Edited by MNPN, 15 February 2010 - 07:33 AM.


#3
custom280Z

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this should help you and teach you what to do in these situation's.
got pic's and everything.


The Complete guide to Sick Plants,pH, and Pest troubles! - International Cannagraphic Magazine Forums

what kind of spectrum are the cfl's? 6500k, 3000k?? and 6 is best per plant with those cfl's.

#4
MNPN

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oh man, if youve actually got a custom 280z Im jealous....actually trying to buy one of those myself.

but yeah....these bulbs are similar to the 6500k's and my plants seem to be liking them, I cant fit many more in my cab and my other plant is a midget, so I have the majority of 4 26w bulbs on my one plant.

Thanks for the link, that guide is actually one of the ones Ive been reading through. lemme try again though....let me know what you think.

Mg def. symptoms according to that (awesome) guide:

1)Interveinal chlorosis and yellowing of surrounding leaf: no
2)leaf tips curling up and getting crispy+spreading: yes
3)effecting middle to upper parts of fairly mature plant: yes
4)growing tips lime green: no, actually exactly the opposite
5)twisting leaves: yes
6) inner part of leaf yellow/brown: not yet

please bear with me, this is my first time trying to diagnose a sick plant.

Do you think that I should foliar feed with a small amount of garden lime which contains mg(I could also buy some epsom salts...)? this might help temporarily while I tried to fix my soil (it already has a lot of garden lime in it)?

Is there any way to tell how much calcium is in my water?

Edited by MNPN, 15 February 2010 - 08:18 AM.


#5
Blazin Nuggs

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Your plants have a nutrient deficiancy,the yellowing could be from a salt buildup issue. Leach your plants with ph balanced distilled water for three to five days then restart your nutrient uptake. What kind of nutrients are you using.

#6
MNPN

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Im doing an organic grow, so there is no nutrient program. the base soil consists of high quality earthworm castings, verm./perlite, plain potting soil, and a small amount of sphagnum moss and compost. Ammendments, listed in the first post, were added to the soil to slowly release nutrients throughout the grow and I have added some aerated microbially active teas that assist in the decomposition of those ammendments and the uptake of those nutrients. I believe that that my deficiency is not because of a lack of any nutrient in my soil but rather the lockout of one caused by the excess of another, either due to my newbie soil mixing skillz or perhaps calcium in my water.

I have considered flushing my soil, is this what you mean by leach? Im not familiar with that process. I am definately going to switch to distilled water, perhaps if calcium is my prob. that will solve things. definately cant hurt. Thanks for the advice.

#7
custom280Z

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yep ,best way possible to start curing any nute def in soil is to flush her with fresh water and get the nasty out. i'd keep that guide it will help in the long run for sure. most of everything in soil grow's can be cured with a flush and if not it's because the problem got to far gone to save a plant without using chem's, you will see this in that guide. but if you notice your learning about what nute def's are and how to get rid of them so even if you kill the plant your still going to gain some know how for the next run. to get any decent plant worth talking about get 2 more cfl's at least. think side walls and roof if you can for mounting them, more the better man.

and ya i have a first gen 77 280Z...stroker...dual carb's...shaved everything...my baby.
170mph car. i love it. taken me 2 years to get it right.
just like car's growing herb can be just as awesome if you put that passion into it.

cheer's

#8
MNPN

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Sounds beautiful. :D

And thanks so much for your help, just one more question: If I flush my soil, which was supposed to contain most of the nutes for the duration of the grow, will I lose all of the good nutrients that were in balance along with whatever is hurting my plant? and how would you reccomend I replace these?

#9
custom280Z

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Sounds beautiful. :D

And thanks so much for your help, just one more question: If I flush my soil, which was supposed to contain most of the nutes for the duration of the grow, will I lose all of the good nutrients that were in balance along with whatever is hurting my plant? and how would you reccomend I replace these?



yah, but your nutes are unbalanced now do to ph. so the best thing to do is flush it, then on her next watering feed her a 1/2 strength dose of nute's, repeat then gradually over time get her back to full strenth that's the idea, to minimize stress and regain health.

#10
MNPN

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I guess I dont understand, how is my ph unbalanced? I mean it could be...I have some fairly innaccurate strips that Ive used to test it, but couldnt the ph be just fine and the problem be related to an excess of some nutrient? or are you saying that excess of certain nutrients causes ph imblance which is the thing that actually causes lockout of other nutes?

#11
starcecil

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yah, but your nutes are unbalanced now do to ph. so the best thing to do is flush it, then on her next watering feed her a 1/2 strength dose of nute's, repeat then gradually over time get her back to full strenth that's the idea, to minimize stress and regain health.



If you are using chemical nutes a half may be too much, start at a 1/4

#12
starcecil

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I guess I dont understand, how is my ph unbalanced? I mean it could be...I have some fairly innaccurate strips that Ive used to test it, but couldnt the ph be just fine and the problem be related to an excess of some nutrient? or are you saying that excess of certain nutrients causes ph imblance which is the thing that actually causes lockout of other nutes?



And yes... exactly. Most nutrients are only available to the plant at certain ph's and that is why you want to keep it in a certain range. I try to aim between 6-7 but some people have a more exact science to it. Also if you do hydro they use a different ph scale, I think like 5.5 -6.5 and soil is as mentioned above i belive, but shoot for closer to 7

#13
custom280Z

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6.5-6.8 for soil depeding on strain, so an accurate ph meter is really important or knowing your soil mixes. i use organic's more than anything so it's harder to get burn. 1/4 strength sould get the job done but if using organic's go 1/2 , it really depend's on the type of nutes your using.
you also have to listen to your plant, look's go allong way with growing weed, even though 6.5-6.8 is optimal for soil, some strain's or plant's like it on either side of that scale and sometime's even in the 6.9-7 area. i stay 6.7-6.9 for mine and they love it but my pure sativa(african) like's the 6.6-6.7 area. each plant grow's different and will stress when not in the sweet zone of there favorite ph.
your nutes are getting locked out due to ph. in soil grow's your nute's will often lower your tap to around 6.5-6.8, so mix and check it before pouring on your lady, by using to much nute's , to often, has built up salt's in your soil, changing your ph, and causing the nute lockout.

Edited by custom280Z, 15 February 2010 - 08:19 PM.


#14
custom280Z

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your plant is not that bad off it's in the first stages of nute def and has some leaf tip nute burn that's all, for this particular plant flush it man. and keep giving her water until she really starts to yellow on the bottom leave's. she is then telling you to start feeding, only feed 1/4 or 1/2 strength at this point(depending on your nute's). she will be fine, get a bag of dolomite lime to help control ph problem's in your soil. it really help's keep thing's balanced over time.


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