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anyone ever used alaska fish fertilizer

  • by jw2856
  • Jan 28 2010 02:10 PM
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Posted 28 January 2010 - 02:10 PM

Just picked some up from the store, I have only put one application on my plants at quarter strength. has anyone used this before? Also I noticed that when i added it to water it brings the ph down, I used distilled water with ph of 7.2 and used quarter strength and it went down to 6.6, could I use this for ph adjusting instead of vinegar or ph down? My ph in my soil now is 6.8-7, and my water ph is 6.5-6.6. I have had ph problems from the start(it was over 7 a week ago) and just recently got my digital ph meter and have been trying to adjust the soil to the optimum ph. thanks gc
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Posted 29 January 2010 - 02:15 AM

That sounds actually perfect with the ph down thing. I would flush every once in a while though(i dont think it would hurt if you use the ferts frequently at 1/4) plus that stuff is nearly impossible to burn with right? Thats what i read on the bottle. I made the mistake of opening it up and taking a big whiff in the store, i nearly died.:hide: Let me know how your babes like it!

Edited by lusherism, 29 January 2010 - 02:17 AM.


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Posted 29 January 2010 - 01:29 PM

lol, this shit stinks, i did the same thing(smelling) after the woman told me it didnt stink. Nothing like gagging in the middle of a hardware store in front of people to make you feel stupid lol!! Its suppose to be hard to nute burn with this stuff from what the bottle says, it seems to be working well with my girls. They look like they are starting to grow again and geeting some green back on the leaves.

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Posted 30 January 2010 - 07:51 PM

I'm using they're veg formula right now, at half strength. Getting some pretty nice results. Very rich, dark green foliage. Pretty hard to burn with, as well. I pushed pretty hard (got up to twice reccomended) on a runt of a test plant. Very slight tip burn, but the stuff is pretty forgiving.

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Posted 31 January 2010 - 12:05 AM

good to hear someone with positive results. As of now all of the runoff ph is around 6.5, and evrything is growing well again. I will be watering every other time with the quarter strength and hopefully can post some results in a couple of months.

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Posted 31 January 2010 - 04:41 AM

I made the mistake of opening it up and taking a big whiff in the store, i nearly died.:hide:

I think everyone makes that mistake, "deodorized" my ass:laughing:

I'm using they're veg formula right now, at half strength. Getting some pretty nice results. Very rich, dark green foliage. Pretty hard to burn with, as well. I pushed pretty hard (got up to twice recommended) on a runt of a test plant. Very slight tip burn, but the stuff is pretty forgiving.

I use as directed (1 tbsp to gallon of water), never noticed any burnt tips. When I add it to water my PH comes out at 6.3-6.4, saves me a lot of money on PH Up&Down.

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Posted 19 April 2010 - 10:34 AM

"I think everyone makes that mistake, "deodorized" my ass"
guilty.
But, I started using it on some neglected and stunted plants with amazing results. Also too can confirm its damn near impossible to burn, also noted it brought my pH down in slightly alkaline water, but when soil was at 5.8 addition brought it up to 6.3?
Soaking peat pellets, wool cubes, (any clone/seedling size individual grow medium) etc in a strong concentration of this solution before you stick in your seed, let dry and repeat process one more time if you have patience,
I've done this with at least moderate results, (15-30% more roots, 10-35% taller on average,) but these benefits only last through the first week or two of seedling growth,

Edited by GiulianiTime, 19 April 2010 - 10:41 AM.


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Posted 24 April 2010 - 02:43 PM

I saw that fertilizer in the Loews in my area. I wondered about buying it. Might have to give it a try.

Jak
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Posted 24 April 2010 - 07:56 PM

"I think everyone makes that mistake, "deodorized" my ass"
guilty.
But, I started using it on some neglected and stunted plants with amazing results. Also too can confirm its damn near impossible to burn, also noted it brought my pH down in slightly alkaline water, but when soil was at 5.8 addition brought it up to 6.3?

That's funny it jumps it up.

That shit will take my 8.5 tap water, and knock it down below four. That's at a half dose, so I don't know what's up with my bottle. So happened that it worked for the rest of the system though, so that was cool.

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Posted 24 April 2010 - 08:04 PM

everyone, you know, every time I think I got an answer to a question, something pops up that potentially dispels the answer I had finally found. I guess that's the great thing about this pot growing fixation. you can never quite figure it totally out, but you can get better at it.

Jak

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Posted 27 April 2010 - 04:14 PM

I'm pretty sure Alaska Fish Fertilizer is a fish emulsion, NOT a hydrolysate. The difference being emulsions are cooked, destroying bacteria and enzymes in the process, whereas hydrolysate is made using a cold process.

Taken from Fish hydrolysate - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia - "If fish hydrolysate is heated, the oils and certain proteins can be more easily removed to be sold in purified forms. The complex protein, carbohydrate and fats in the fish material are denatured, which means they are broken down into less complex foods. Over-heating can result in destruction of the material as a food to grow beneficial organisms. Once the oils are removed and proteins denatured and simplified by the heating process, this material is called a fish emulsion. The hydrolysate process has substantially lower capital and production costs compared to fish emulsion production."

PS: kudos to LD for that information in a previous thread. I also wanted to recommend Neptune's Harvest > AlaskaFF
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Posted 28 April 2010 - 02:33 PM

I'm pretty sure Alaska Fish Fertilizer is a fish emulsion, NOT a hydrolysate. The difference being emulsions are cooked, destroying bacteria and enzymes in the process, whereas hydrolysate is made using a cold process.

Taken from Fish hydrolysate - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia - "If fish hydrolysate is heated, the oils and certain proteins can be more easily removed to be sold in purified forms. The complex protein, carbohydrate and fats in the fish material are denatured, which means they are broken down into less complex foods. Over-heating can result in destruction of the material as a food to grow beneficial organisms. Once the oils are removed and proteins denatured and simplified by the heating process, this material is called a fish emulsion. The hydrolysate process has substantially lower capital and production costs compared to fish emulsion production."

PS: kudos to LD for that information in a previous thread. I also wanted to recommend Neptune's Harvest > AlaskaFF


I was a long time user of Alaska Fish Fertilizer (emulsion) until LD's post enlightened me regarding its deficiencies. After that someone else posted on its heavy metal content in spite of the organic label and I started looking at USDA organic requirements, other standards and realized it was another game with a lot of loopholes to satisfy special interests.

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Posted 28 April 2010 - 08:17 PM

I bought a bottle at Lowes a year ago. Got it home and noticed it had a blank yellow sticker covering up the part of the label that said it was OMRI listed. This year I noticed the label was redesigned to eliminate the OMRI Listed designation. Newt

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Posted 14 July 2013 - 05:31 PM

very old thread.... but, lowes still carries this for like $7.98 a bottle and it still smells like a fat hoes beaver. no doubt. 

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Posted 14 July 2013 - 05:45 PM

i thought it didnt matter what the ph is when ur growing organic


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Posted 14 July 2013 - 06:59 PM

i love the stuff, i notice great results the next day..they love it

i was useing the 5-1-1..now my plants are in flower 12\12 two days ago i just bought the bloom kind 0-10-10


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Posted 15 July 2013 - 08:58 AM

i thought it didnt matter what the ph is when ur growing organic


Of course pH matters no matter how you decide to garden - a balanced pH can and will mean the difference between a thriving, successful garden or a sickly stagnant garden. A balanced pH is probably THE single most important things a gardener can do to ensure success.

Luckily in an organic garden, by using quality compost and/or vermicompost our soil life has the ability to help us with this by buffering/balancing the surrounding pH to suit it's needs at the time. Soil pH can constantly change from one spot to another as different organic items break down which is why trying to adjust it in an organic garden is like chasing your tail. Just make sure your calcium levels are sufficient and soil microbes will take care of the rest, providing you use quality compost to start with.

J
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Posted 15 July 2013 - 09:16 AM

Balance and diversity is the two words I always throw around when explaining true organics to people. You achieve both and keep ur microherd happpy you should never have issues with your plants. There is a reason I grow 7 pound plus plants. ;)
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Posted 10 December 2013 - 06:48 AM

I go down to the river after salmon spawning season and pick up some salmon carcasses.... bury them and plant over them... they kick ass! Tried one indoors in a 35-gallon smart pot... dumb idea... I damn near had to put on a gas mask after a couple weeks... implemented some into my compost heap this year.... I'm hoping to make some killer indoor soil from it and... hoping the odor will wear off a bit after breaking down.  :smoke:



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