I doubt your gonna get 20 gallons in 3.2 hours. Most of the membranes can produce about 2.5 gallons per hour if that.
150 Gallons per day so 150/24 to get how many gallons per hour. The total GPH is 6.25. Then take the total number of gallons needed to fill the system, which is 20. So 20/6.25 and the total time it will take it 3.2 hours. So thats like 3 hours and 12 min or so. You are thinking of a smaller unit I believe.
We will see in a few days. I purchased it tonight. Even if I don't get the full 150GPD It will still do more faster than the other 100GPD unit with a 4.4 gallon tank.
The membrane on mine is the 50 gallon version. Takes 12 hours to refill the tank after a purge. Tank holds 22 gallons. Pretty close to the stated rate.
Then I should be good. I want to get a 20 gallon tank but the cheapes I have found is over $150 so it will have to wait. I have seen a few others that werent priced too badly that were a little smaller so who knows what I will end up with. I just need the system as I can take clones tonight but have no way to get water for my DWC system and I am waiting on my 2nd air pump to get here.
I must need better glasses. My tank holds 20 gallons. 20 Gallon Square Tank With Cover 11-1/2" X 11-1/2" X 35" | U.S. Plastic Corp. I like the verticle tank as it has a small footprint. However, you might want to strap it to the wall so it doesn't fall over in an earthquake (don't know where you live though). Check out this place as they have great stuff.
Nice tank but I am wanting one made for the RO systems so I can pull my drinkin water from it too...... Or I could use that larger tank and then have a smaller 3 gallon for under the sink and tie it into the system before the DI filters......hmmm.... How do you stop it from filling the tank?
They sell adjustable float level shut off valves kind of like a toilet valve but not as bulky. You could "T" to one of those and then have it fill the other tank when one is full. http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=34189&catid=569&clickid=searchresults This is the one I use.
Ill put my 2 cents in, hope it helps. I use only RO/DI water, and it all started with a saltwater reef tank. I was buying it from fish stores at about $.25 per gallon and invested in my own system recently. It is the ONLY water to use for a reef tank. Now I use it for everything (I mean EVERYTHING), the taste in it is noticible for sure. "Everything" consuming has noticed a difference. Hope this helps..gotta spend a buck to make two
I think what I will do is T into the line that goes from the membrane to the DI filter and send that line to a small 3 or 4 gallon storage tank for drinking. Then get the 20 gallon tank that you posted and will have it fill after the DI. So I will have both RO and RO/DI. The is exactly why I bought it. I got the larger unit because it will be worth it in the end. The tanks can come later but the system is what is important.
Worry about your water after you have a couple grows under your belt, as nutes, lighting, and your growing method form more of a direct impact on your harvest than different filtrations of water, as keep in mind, this plant grows naturally in the wild without Reverse Osmosis or Reverse Osmosis De-Ionized water. Really speand more time on your nutes, system, and lighting as the cost for such a system could be spent better on one of the three previously mentioned items.
ThenI take it that you did not read my journal or check my previous grows. I have invested over $1200 on my system. I have everything else covered. This RO system was the last thing to get. I know the plants do not get RO water natually but they also do not get 400+ ppm water that my city provides. How else will I be able to refill a 20 gallon DWC system every 10-15 days? I am not going to be buying that mch water. I have already run the number and in the first grow alone I would pay for the RO system and more if I was to buy the water from the store. If you are running any type of hydro set-up you are better off spending the money on a RO system. Your plants will pay you back for it and it will pay for itself in the first grow.
DO you leech Co2 in your environment? Do you have 96% light reflectivity in your entire growing area that your plants occupy? Have you invested in after market bulbs? Have you invested in top notch nutrients and growing mediums? Have you invested in supplementary lighting? Have you invest money and time in agricultural books and various growing techniques? if your answer is no to any* of the above questions then why the f@$!k are you wasting your money on ROing and DIing your water? The money could be better spent on any one of the previous items. If you are concerned about the filtration of your water, just install a water filter on the source of the water that you will fill your containers at, if you can drink it so can your plants, and my city provides water to me at about 60 ppms
BS. The sooner you know and control the quality of the water the better off you are. This is refering to indoor growing. Your lucky to have 60 ppm. Try growing in 450+ ppm and wonder why growth height is out of control (calcium).
How about you read my journal before giving me advice that was not requested. This thread was specifically to dicuss the differences (if any) between RO and RO/DI. Please check out my journal and my set-up before making comments like that. I have done my research and have one of the nicest set-ups I have seen. And good for you that your city has 60ppm water. It isn't like that everywhere so please think before replying.
I think whatuthinkin is going in the right direction with RO. I know I'll be getting it as soon as I can, and won't look back. -Mech
[quote name='Mechanibus']I think whatuthinkin is going in the right direction with RO. I know I'll be getting it as soon as I can, and won't look back. -Mech ] You bet. It becomes a "no brainer" when you start trying to mix the soup, and if you notice, most all of the fertilizer directions assume your using very close to 0 ppm water. First "brick wall" I ran into when I started growing was the soup called out for a mixture not to exceed 300ppm and my raw tap was 458ppm. Like I said, the sooner you control the quality of the water the better off you are gonna be.
Well I have the RO system installed now and just need to order a float valve for my res tank. Other than that it is producing water when I turn it on. I am very happy with it and can taste a big difference. I can't wait to see how the plants like it. Mech you should check out my DIY carbon scrubber man.
Honestly, it's not going to make a difference. both systems produce extremely good water with either low TDS or 0 depending if you get the DI. If you really want, just buy the first one and try it out first then get a DI filter if you don't like the results. But if you are really concerned with production then that's a little different. Just check the PSI requirements for the 150 GPD production because sometimes they require 60 psi while the 100 GPD requires 50 PSI. What this means is that if you put 60 psi on the 100 GPD membrane, it'll produce more so you may be saving money on that end too.