The best scrog setup I've seen used stretched out coat hangers to make individual frames for the scrog screens. Cheap, easy, and it makes handling your grow much easier as the plants dont really grow into the other screens. Unfortuantly his grow journal was on OG, but I'm going to be using the same method for my grow, so I'll have alot of info as to how well it works.
I have a question. How are u getting the plant to spread out liek that? is this done by topping? im confused where all these Growth sites come from
The growth comes from taking the initial branches and spreading them out towards the outside of the screen. Now the light is really getting down to the main stalk so now new branches begin to grow. Tie those back and more grow, it's just like LST. If you don't know what LST is, do a search for Vokal, he has a REALLY good right up on it.
Yea my understanding was that you could only do that by topping. thanks fellas for not saying "use the search" I have been :] peace
This is a classic post, but a word of warning; cloning from plants in flower is not wise. Firstly, it's a lot easier to clone from a plant in it's veg phase; after all, putting on green is what it's doing, and that's what you want your clones to do. They will take off a lot quicker, and be healthier (especially if you do it in the correct phase of the moon - worth a Google). And secondly, I often read suggestions that cloning from a plant that has begun its flowering program can cause mutations in the DNA, which would weaken your stock over time, lowering potency, and introducing undesirable characteristics. It makes sense; it's a whole new program when the light changes, and the plants energy is being directed into a vastly different set of goals, i.e. dank budz. So basically, you take your clones while a plant is still in veg, before going under 12/12 lighting. Generally, it's best to keep a separate mother plant, anyway, and just grab as many clones as you need for your next ScroG. There seems to be a flaw in the ScroG system, as I see it, in that you need to spend veg time under the screen, but I didn't. I'm hoping to keep a steady perpetual harvest with mother/daughter chamber + ScroG, using LST to pre-train the plants for the screen (I LST'ed three of my six, as an experiment), which they will fill during the first few weeks (aka. "the stretch"). I've just started this Perpetual-ScroG system, so if it doesn't work out like that, I'll post here again! But after only a week of stetching in soil, it's looking pretty good! Something else that isn't mentioned is that it's good to bowl (curve into a bowl shape) the chicken wire (or whatever you are using) to match the curvature of the light intensity. If you don't, the buds on the outside won't get as much light as the buds in the middle. A light meter* would be a useful tool in determining just how "bowed" your light pattern is, depending on your reflector. Happy ScroGin' -mu * or a camera with a light meter in it; point the camera at the palm of your hand in the test point - closing the aperture (higher number, like f32) as much as possible, if you can do that with your camera.
I used to hang out with the greenmonster at another site that is no more. I don't think he posts anymore. A mad woman, ratted out his grow. He grew, pretty much exclusively in bubblers. I've taken clones in veg and flower. Veg cuttings root faster but flower cuts are wayyyyy branchier. I have the pics that came with gm's original post . Check out the branchiness of gm's clone.
I just read your post, very nice ! I was just wanting to know how large your pot for that setup is ? Since the pot size can`t be too small for the root system I grow in 2 liter coke bottles (flood & drain hydroponics system) I veg for 40 day`s (5"in) and the roots do not have room ! Plants are not growing very well ! Is there a chart or web site that has some kind of chart or pot size and veg time for plant size in relationship to size of finished plant ? example flood & drain hydroponics system) Pot size Finished plant (inches) 2 gal 12"-20" 3 gal 20"-24" 4 gal 30"-36" 5 gal 38"- 40" You do not want to spend all that time bending , toping and tranig your plants inn your screen and have too small of a pot size ! ! ! ! ! ! ! For a flood & drain hydroponics system ?
I use the same method. I bought (at Atlantis Hydro) the support brackets for building with 1 1/4" pvc pipe and made stands for my 3x3 E&F trays. On the 1 1/4" pvc pipe cross members that support the tray-leave em long and mount an elbow on the four corners, put the elbow all the way up against bracket. . Mount vertical pvc in the elbows to height desired, mount add'l elbows at the top and tie together with pvc pipe on each side only, not across the ends. I don't glue the pvc but drill small pilot hole in fitting/pipe and use small sheet metal screws, easy to disassemble and move. I don't attach the very top cross-members elbows but just slide together. , allows me to bump off (small rubber mallet may be needed)top crossmember to work on lights etc with a little more room Mount two levels of string trellis to the vertical pvc about a foot apart, the string can be very close to the lights and two levels adds strength to hold buds. I use plastic wire ties to mount. Plastic trellis is also available but the holes are smaller. I have seen highway crews using an orange plastic barrier that has holes and looks somewhat like trellis-I think this would work good and could problably be obtained for free. Go to work training your plants, they are tough and can stretch horizontally all the way across the tray if you desire. I also put mylar (mounted with short strips of duct tape) on the inside of the vertical pvc pipe. I only did the two sides, one side is against the mylar on wall, this leaves one side open for work and ventilation. Gets the mylar right up to the tray and this helps even with mylar on room walls. I run 800 watts and fill the area completely across all the way to the mylar on sides and tray edges front and back. Great post, thanks.
well ive bin growing vertical for a year or so and your idea will work fine remember tho the vertical plants will grow upwards and not towards the light the usually reflected light from a horizontal bulb is missing now so there is less getting to the bottom plants also buddy i intend to add extra plants around the edge of the bottom screen and train these up the sides these plants can then be fed easily with the rest of em also i would put a reflector at the back of your light where theres no screen the light below a vertical bulb is less than horizontal bulb so i might use two bulbs horizontaly with a reflector between them and one at the back
Stress is relative. As far as the plant goes i think you can get pretty extreme with how you force it to grow. its really more like growth directional control. check these 1/4 pound plants out. 2 square feet by 8 to 9 inches tall.
just read thru ur entire post man and i have to say wow, that was informative! thanks for all the info and the time it must have taken to do taht... peace out and +rep
I have a question if i had a 3'x4'x3' grow box and 6 plants what wattage HPS bulb would u guys recomend i was thinking mabe a 400w? mabe 2? and how close to the base of the plant can i put the screen?
i would go with a 600w, because you can never go wrong with too much light.. unless your concerned with heat issues.. and i'd place the screen about 15-18 inches from the base
Yea i thought about the power issues some and have decided to go with those little florecent bulbs instead. plus there easier to get pretty much anywhere and more on my budget.