She is in week 6 flower under 600 watt HPS. Been on Beastie Blooms for 3 weeks, feeding once per week. The last couple weeks I have been fighting temps in the 80s with one spike for 2 days just above 90. I have it back down to a high of 80 on hot days. Temp is taken at plant height. During this temp spike she needed watering more often and once I noticed the tip burn I thought I was pushing overfert so last 2 waters have been plain water. I just watered againt with 1/2 tsp per gal of Bestie Bloomz. Soil Ph has been a constant 6.8. Don't know humidity. Room has good air circulation with fresh air vented in. The tip burn is on older growth and newer growth. The yellow dots that are now starting are on older and medium growth, not the newer growth. The tip curl is on older growth and medium growth. Do I need to be worried or will she be fine if I stick with plain water till harvest at week 8 or 9? Heres a pic...
it's hard to see anything wrong with the HPS on, can u take a pic with out the HPS glow, maybe just after lights out or something
ill try t to get a better pic tomorrow, but if you view it full size its pretty aparant. Once you oppen the thumbnal click on the pic again and it open full size.
The yellow dots are getting worse especially on older growth but it is all over. Leaf tips curling down even more.
i read in a book on growing that in a flowering plant, some leaf yellowing and even slight curling is normal due to the small amount of nitrogen in most flowering ferts. i would weaken the ferts a lil more and just watch it really carefully.but this is the most important time for ferting in your plants life so you dont wanna just cut it out completely.
Glad you asked, not good. Some of the larger leaves got more damaged. I found a pic somewhere else its nute burn. I took off the badly damaged leaved and any leaves that were damaged at all if it let light through to the lower healthy leaves. I used lower fert once (with some N), and water only twice after that. The bigger fan leaves that were fine before are now showing signs of damage. Once I saw the first signs of continued damage I flushed. It is 8+ weeks flower. The trichs are still clear. Very few look milky or have amber heads. The plant is brittle. Leaf fingers will just crack across the width of the finger. The plant feels dry. Its getting plenty of water, especially since that flush 2 days ago. Soil ph is 6.9 (its a cheapo meter). I feel like I see continued undergrowth, plenty of crsytals frosting the buds. Plant height has increased very little in the last few weeks. IM ready to harvest but the trichs say no, and this is still an issue, unless the flush helps. Hard to say in just 2 days. Weather is cooling off and humidity has risen (can't say how much in the room). Leaf tips thgat are close to buds are doing the witchy finger. A curll down and then pointed out again. Tips are burnt. Yellow dots appear through out the leaves and cluster in groups to be just dry and burnt. Im concerned the maturing of the trichs will stop. The Colas are really beefy though . I'll get another pic tomorrow morning since someone is asking. This pic is comparable, except that it starts in scattered dots and can concentrate in a patch in the middle of the leaf, not necessarily from the edges. Then I read an article on P abuse and I cried... And though it looks like this, the way it starts is not from the edges. So that makes me think back to what you said about the plant in its last phase of budding drawing off the fan leaves. Maybe. Another interesting point is that I took three clones in week one of flower. I didnt have a seperate area for them so I just kept them under 12/12 fourescent. I foliar fed the clones while the rooted in peat pellets. Once root I phased them into the 600 watt HPS still at 12/12. They rooted in 10 days. These clones are now showing the same issue with scattered yellow spots on odler fan leaves. They are also brittle. The tallest one is like 5 inces. One of them had an issue and kinda like topped itself and stayed really stubby but fat little buds. Its actually quite funny to look at. My point though is that they never had the beastie bloomz with the really high P, and they always had N. My flowering nutes for the clones was 19-31-18. They are also off of nutes for the time being.
OK, the trichs went milky with some more frequent amber heads. Even after the flush the issue persists on all 4 plants. I took some pics. coming on 9 weeks flower.
The light is not real close. Its at least 18 if not closer to 24. I can hold my hand just above the level of the plant without feeling too much heat. It is farther now than it has been. I backed it off to manage heat levels.
i will be pulling it in a week anyway. it should make it that long. i just hope it is not to harsh from too much nutes.
I lifted this from The Complete guide to Sick Plants,pH, and Pest troubles! - International Cannagraphic Magazine Forums Nitrogen (N) Mobile Element and Macro Element Benefit: Nitrogen plays a very big role in your plants; this one element is directly responsible for production of chlorophyll, photosynthesis, Amino Acids, which are the building block of Proteins. The myriad of enzymes which help the plants growth in leaves stems and the how well the vigor of your plants is. Nitrogen is the biggest mobile element meaning it can travel anywhere on the plant. Usually the def will start on the lower to middle part of the plant, and then will usually happen to older leaves first. Then the deficiency will work its way up the plant. Your plant can be green on top, then yellowing on the lower leaves when the deficiency is starting out. Yield will be greatly reduced without good amounts of nitrogen in your plants. Sometimes in bad cases the leaves will turn a purplish color along with the yellowing. Unlike a magnesium deficiency, nitrogen def will start from the tips and work its way back to the leaf node. Nitrogen and Magnesium get confused. The best way to tell them apart is, nitrogen deficiency starts around the tips and works its way to the back of the leaves, where a magnesium deficiency will cover the entire outer part of the leave and make the entire leaves yellow leaving the veins to stay green. If your plants are having a slow growth rate and have yellowing of the leaves, then most likely it's a nitrogen deficiency. Towards the middle to end of flowering stages, the plant will show a nitrogen deficiency almost always. This process is completely normal and just let the plant naturally yellow out as it uses it's stored nutrients. This actually helps you by getting ready for final flushing and then harvesting. At this point DO NOT not use nitrogen to fix the problem. The yellowing leaves will then eventually drop off after the plant is done with them. Parts affected by a nitrogen deficiency are: Older foliage, going to whole plant, Petioles (rare) cases.
I second this. Your plant looks perfectly healthy to me. If you're still convinced there is a problem you need to fix I would look at the micro nutrients your plant needs but .. you're already 8+weeks. You're done bro. hehe