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How long does the Veggie stage last?

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  • Dec 31 2008 05:56 PM
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Posted 31 December 2008 - 05:56 PM

When will i know to flower my plants,or is it up to me.
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  • mels
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Posted 31 December 2008 - 05:59 PM

When will i know to flower my plants,or is it up to me.



They reach sexual maturity when the nodes start staggering but you can force them to flower at any time.

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Posted 31 December 2008 - 06:02 PM

Thanks mels.My girls are 3 weeks today.Dont no the sex yet though.

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Posted 31 December 2008 - 09:43 PM

Thanks mels.My girls are 3 weeks today.Dont no the sex yet though.

:confused::confused::confused::confused::confused:

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Posted 01 January 2009 - 02:18 AM

:confused::confused::confused::confused::confused:


It's good luck to call them girls. I always refer to my women when talkin' with em. And if they become males.... well then.... we take them out back.......:wave:

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Posted 01 January 2009 - 02:22 AM

same thing as calling a bong or whatever her, it just sounds weird otherwise.

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Posted 01 January 2009 - 05:49 AM

The more appropriate answer is...

Veggie stage lasts as long as you keep it in veggie stage. You can keep it there for years or you can go right into flowering. (With rare exceptions for auto-flowering plants that have been out-bread, and are missing the phototropic genes.)

Stages of a plant's life are determined by the environment, not by an internal clock.

1. A drop in temperature of the roots, and stalk.
2. Light periods that are shorter than dark periods.
3. Physical angle of light.
4. Color shift of light index.

The temperature drop of both root and plant are needed. This occurs in fall, as the sun lowers on the horizon, with the thicker atmosphere absorbing more blue and IR light. The cells in a plant, if not auto-flowering, will become chemically unbalanced. This unbalance which retards flowering cells, becomes accelerated, as the flood-gates open. (Light and heat restrict food and water from getting to the flowering cells.)

Angle is not as important, but it is another trigger-event. The stalk and inner leaves get more light, while the outer leaves get less. (This also triggers leaf-dropping, by closing the nodules on the leaves, and turgor pressure causes the binding cells to rupture below the flower. This is so that the flower gets all the water and food that the developed roots offer.)

Going into flowering early, will result in potentially no branches, and a severely undersized growth of flowers. This is due to the limited root structure, and extended stay of the rooting leaves. Faster, but not as economic.

They will begin to flower, once you go into 12/12 light cycle, or lower.

Auto-flower plants just decay in time. (The flowering blocking cells decay.) You can flower them early, but you can not stay in veg mode once they begin to decay. (Well, you can, but you will slow-down rooting and budding.)

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Posted 01 January 2009 - 06:22 AM

Great post LaughingJim.

When planning out how big you want to grow your plants, keep in mind that even when you switch to flowering, the plants are going to continue to grow.

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Posted 01 January 2009 - 06:26 AM

Expect 2/3 height inc. -after veg. stage

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Posted 01 January 2009 - 07:20 PM

depends, 3 weeks in a well setup hydro system is enough for grow up, but soil is slow, it could take 2 months there or longer, depending on strain - unless you grow your plans tiny, you'll get tiny yields also, almost not worth the effort and risk

Also, plants growth accelerates the bigger it gets, the more branches it has, more foliage it has, the size of the roots, it's all relative.

Edited by polish_pothead, 01 January 2009 - 07:34 PM.


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Posted 07 January 2009 - 05:20 AM

To be more correct...

The more plant volume, before flowering, the more potential buds you will have.

You want more roots than branches and leaves. Branches will hold buds, but if you have grown over-sized from nutes, without enough light to support the buds... A majority of the branches will have pop-corn buds, as the leaves consume more than they can produce. (Production from using light to turn all that nutrient into food for bud growth.)

Remove any sickly leaves, and under-sized branches that are not in direct light. That will allow the larger root system to feed the more efficient leaves. That, in turn, will help your yield a lot more. (You will end up with 8-10 full buds, as opposed to 20-25 popcorns and 2 big buds, and 1 large one. You will have more fully developed buds, as opposed to many under-developed buds.)

The sooner you bloom, the less you will yield. (Nutrient roots take the longest, leaves are just your solar collectors. If it is not producing, it is consuming. When you flush, remove all branch leaves, and let the buds leaves grow alone. Full light will give you a little bud-juice boost, before you harvest.)


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