Hey all, I made this chart today in Excel while trying to figure out the most cost efficient way to grow. What I wanted to accomplish was not just a straight up Lumens per Watt (∴ lumens per power consumed ∴ lumens per electricity dollar) but use a formula to factor in the brightness of the light at the minimum distance that would be safe for the plants (using the inverse square property of luminous density). Also, I factored in the intrinsic ability of higher output lamps to penetrate the canopy and yield bigger buds. The Real Efficiency column is therefore the most important one to look at. Conclusions: The most ideal setup for me (doing SCROG) would be with using the 600W HPS and possibly with a MH conversion bulb to start and 42w daylight CFLs for spectral supplement. A vegging/clone chamber setup would work great using the 42w, 65w, or 105w CFLs.
good to see you actually doing research instead of just asking...always better to learn rather than just ask for the answer. Good job +rep
Thanks ya'll, now if I could just compile some real world data and see if the estimates are actually close, like doing the same thing for yield per watt.
Hey buddy Im using a 70watt hps from lowes tight budjet so dont laugh.I have a closet grow 3'wx2'dx3'h,3" comp.fans for venting. Is it ok? or no.It puts out 6300 lumens.Your advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Just blew a fair wad on a 600 watt lumatek to replace my 400. I have nto deen this chart in 4 ever. Lol, I cried when I saw the 67k lumens for my 600 then I looked and saw the 37k lumens for my 400. I was like wtf, where is my 91k lumens. Lol. Well it is still twice as good.
Just my opinion, but you're over thinking things here a little. Just get the 600w and keep it as close as you safely can. I've heard the 600 is the most efficient hps many times over, personally I'd go with a digital ballast, then you don't have to mess with conversion bulbs which are quite a bit pricier than standard 600w mh's, and supposedly run more efficiently. That extra $50 it costs ,or whatever, is made up by the second bulb you buy at Lowes or Home Depot, instead of ordering it and paying $70.
Actually it is in fact real important to follow that chart I learned out the hard way. I keot the winter temps down so low I used the light for heat and what I got for letting the buds touch the glass was some tight bleached white nugs. They smoked ok and it was only the very most top buds it was a shocker. That lack of chlorypyl cant be good. I am medical so I was only a little irritated.
Hi Stewie, I'd like to see you include a 400w Ceramic Metal Halide. Phlips MasterColor Ceramic Metal Halide ~ CMH ~ HPS-Retro White I've been using the Phillips mastercolor and love it. The spectrums very nice with almost the entire PAR spectrum over 20% relative energy. It's lumen outputs a bit lower than some but I've only seen two bulbs with a spectrum even close. The kicker for the CMH is it runs so cool that I cen get it closer than any other HID. The proximity more than makes up for the lumens and the spectrum grows exceptinally. If you could insert it, I'd love to see!! Thanks
O.K where do I start, I think the present equipment supply industry Is allowing many growers to travel unmapped roads. First of all ask yourself, Why did this store owner open a store? Because he wanted to help me become a great indoor grower? No! He wanted to stop being screwed for the outrageous cost of equipment! and did so by buying enough that he can now pass that screwing onto you. See the chances are very great that you are not your local indoor equipment suppliers customer as much as you are his competition! So ask yourself why would he want you to become successful as a gardener? Would it not serve his interest better To sell you every product under the sun and then upon seeing your frustration advise you its not for everyone! How many people get into it with big hopes and dreams and spend allot of money chasing the next best Lamp or Ballast or Nutrient or Plant Stimulate or technique only to give it up before ever getting that over the top crop? 9.5 out of 10? The store owner makes no money if you dial right into a simple consistant application format.Who do think ownes and publishes the magazines with all the technique articles and applied gear articles and new product advertisings. Allow me to pull that trebbile hook if you wish! The most important part of the indoor lighting application is the “CRI†(Color Rendering Index) and the “Kelvic Range†(Color Temperature) all the lumens/watts in the world mean nothing without these! A classic example is the LOW PRESSURE SODIUM LAMP 180 watts consumes 182 watts producing 32,400 lumens that's 180 lumens per watt currently the most efficient lamp available but they have a CRI of 0 to 20 and Kelvic Temp of 1600 to 1800 straight yellow light! making them worthless in the garden!!!! Otherwise there the most efficient lumen to watt your dollar could buy per KWH Plants have specific light spectrum needs at different points in there lifecycles. Knowing what these are greatly increase the talents of the gardener! Anyone who tells you this is not that important is telling you the suns color in May and the suns color in November has no major effect on the plants lifecycle or its productivity level.Common sense should tell us there is something here worth studying! The charts are nice but they fail to address the actual electrical consumption of the applicable fixtures there by making the lumens per watt category incorrect and further rendering the charts figures invalid . A 400 watt MH consumes 425 to 462 watts depending on Lamp, A 400 Watt HPS S51 consumes 457 to 490 watts depending on lamp , A 600 Watt HPS S106 consumes 665 to 685 watts depending on lamp , A 1000 Watt MH M47 consumes 1070 to 1080 watts depending on lamp, A 1500 Watt MH M 48 consumes 1605 to 1615 watts DOL, A 1000 Watt HPS S52 consumes 1100 watts DOL. These are actual consumption figures as posted by the ballast and lamp manufactures which people might like to use in there postings as a point of reference there by helping to make there contribution technically factual. The distance one can maintain between plant and lamp is dependant only upon ones ability to maintain a temperature that is conducive to plant growth without burning your specimens, if you can keep a lamp cool enough to place it 18inches off you plants then there you go! 18â€. Oh and let me add that successful healthy bumper crops are not created by lamps alone it is the combination of many factors, light intensity and spectrum, nutrient,Co2, Humidity, day and night temperature, timing, technique and so on! It is though deserving of compliment that you possess a passion for what you do and strongly desire to master your interest and contribute your findings to a larger collective. After 20 years I can humbly say with every passing day I reaffirm how little I know and how much there is to learn. Dynosow-er " It takes more then a ladder to get me downâ€
Hi, I understand and (in some ways uinfortunately) agree with you. However did you check out the CMH's data before posting? If CRI's your key metric, 3 and 4k CMH's boast CRI's or 85 and 90! Most MH's are 60-80 & HPS even lower. I agree when it comes to the bulbs proximity to the canopy but if my bulbs 150 degrees cooler on average then I have a functional advantage. Also check out how the Spectrum Phlips MasterColor Ceramic Metal Halide ~ CMH ~ HPS-Retro White with in PAR versus others. Relative energy correlates with Photon intensity or lux per m2 per sec which is another key variable. I've tried almost every light. IMHO 600w HPS & 400 CMH's are best of the bunch. That is until 120 lumens per watt LED's go mainstream. btw- CMH bulbs are only $55 I've heard 600w Plantastar bulbs are great. Anyone using them??
Wow, you guys give us all encouragement to learn more. Here is a scenario: A room 13x 8x 7nhalf. Using a 1000 watt hps on a rail with just an air-condition vent in floor and a circulating fan for heat (no air exchange) with co2 added. Medium is soil, canapy is slightly varied with smaller plants in middle fed with lucas formula with additives. The bulb is about 2 to 3 feet away and pauses for a cpl min at each end. the light cycle was 12/12 from 7 am to 7 pm and was changed to 12/12 12 am to 12 pm. A longer night cycle was used for the change. Growth slowed; temporary? How concerned should one be about hermies? Will such a change bring about smaller elect. bills or no.
I searched and was only confused with info on UV lights. I have a UV light made by mastervision. It is kind that fits on ball cap. Can be used for forensics. Is it safe to use in G.R. during dark period? Allso bought a green painted cfl. Is it safe as well?
HAHA. I think there are other's doing that here. It's cool if you want to pass on info, or share what you know, but don't try to take credit for what is not your's.