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Biggest Yield Under a 400 Watt

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  • Oct 29 2008 07:38 PM
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Posted 29 October 2008 - 07:38 PM

Hey guys, just wondering what type of yields you have gotten under 400 watt HPS/MH

im trying to decide which to go for, a 400 or 600 watt.

Just give me some numbers in grams, thanks.
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  • trogdor4564
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Posted 29 October 2008 - 10:02 PM

I suggest 600w.

But i had a 400w and grew 6 plnts under it(max amount i think) and got 6oz=168g
I think max for a 400w is about 1/2lb=8oz=224g if you know your stuff(obviously its possible to get more but i wouldnt really expect a better yield than that with a 400watter)

Edited by trogdor4564, 29 October 2008 - 10:04 PM.


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Posted 30 October 2008 - 03:26 PM

Cool, thanks a lot. I'm not really trying to get pounds or anything me and my buddy are each gunan get the same light and see who grows better bud, dont get me wrong, more is better tho lol:smoke:

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Posted 30 October 2008 - 05:05 PM

Generally one 1kW HPS = 1 lb, right?

Possibly that is just sea-of-green though...

6 oz. is definitely reasonable, and about normal.

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Posted 31 October 2008 - 05:16 AM

Generally one 1kW HPS = 1 lb, right?

Possibly that is just sea-of-green though...

6 oz. is definitely reasonable, and about normal.




I certainly expect more than 6 oz. from my 400 watt SCROG. Just sayin’...

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Posted 31 October 2008 - 06:02 AM

not trying to jack your thread, but how many plants would be ideal under a 600w?

for 10-12 plants, would i go 1000w or 600w?

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Posted 31 October 2008 - 05:25 PM

lol yea np, im curious aswell. But i geuss my question should be, how much yield do you think i will get off 3 plants under a 400 watt apose to a 600 watt

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Posted 31 October 2008 - 05:35 PM

your yield depends on quite a few variables the biggest is the more veg time the bigger the yields plus the more wattage doing the same time for vegging will yield more, so if doing a grow under a 400 watt compared to a 6oo watt ,the same conditions & vegging period then the 600 watts will produce more.

hope helps ya bud.

peace.....................:smoking:

ps; mind the rule of thumb is a 100 watts per plant;)

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Posted 31 October 2008 - 05:38 PM

either way, do it right and you can get 1 gram per watt

400 watt hps = 400 grams

600 watt hps = 600 grams

use small pots to stop the plants from growing too wide, chop off most side branches so your basically getting 1 main cola per plant

theres a vid on youtube

it can be done

its not about the light, its about what you do with it

peace

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Posted 31 October 2008 - 05:43 PM

Bigger is not always better. It depends on your grow space size and your ventilation setup. Remember you are trying to maintain an optimum temp.

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Posted 31 October 2008 - 06:27 PM

Its possible to get a pound from a 400W lamp. Make sure you are veg'n so the plant comes out to the best target height for your grow space. I also found I get a lot more off less plants. I use to do four plants, but I got lots of "B" grade bud. After switching to two plants, I got better yeild and almost all grade "A".
Strain is a big factor after you have your grow dialed in.
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Posted 31 October 2008 - 08:34 PM

EVERYBODY-
If you want to see how it is done to perfection, go check out Rumple’s grow room (link above). This guy dose it right! Man, oh man, I thought my little water heater room was a pretty cool set up for the first time through, but I have to rethink some stuff now. Go check it out. Hats off, Rumple. You can stop by to fix up my grow room any damn time you want!

Man. Great room. I am not so sure about those plants getting that tall, but hey, it seems to work for you- look at that harvest.! Ever tried to Scrog it? You are definitely doing it right.

guitarmarc

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Posted 01 November 2008 - 07:52 PM

Yea Rumple, iv been checking out your grows all day and you definitly have it down to a science. I'd love to be able to grow such nice looking dense buds like that.

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Posted 01 November 2008 - 10:11 PM

I'd go for 2 x 400HPS with possible 21.36/ 12 flowering

Im using 1 x 400hps in 1.20x1.20x 2m over 8 plants 2nd 400hps in openended extention to bud box 1.65mx 1.65m x 2.50m high. all plants have been thined a bit & have at least 20 branches on each huge flowers & so many tops. I started them all of in the budbox & when they got to crowed made a extra area for the biggest ones they look amazing White widows crowns & colas are stunning Shamans are just turning crystaly.
lamp height is approx 18 inches away ALSO SEE MY POST ON INCREASED YEILDS
Im Aiming for 130g- 160g per tree easy.;)
GOOD LUCK

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Posted 01 November 2008 - 10:28 PM

Rumple. it looks like your plants just about double in height between initial switch over to 12/12 and harvest. Is that a good rule of themb?

I have some Skunk 1 just entering flowering annd it is abut 14 inches high. I can move the lights up another 24 inches or so (Air cooled, enclosed light hood) and, as flowering begins, I am trying to figure our the final height.

Also, I notice that your light gets pretty close there at the end, without any problems. I can touch my light anywhere and it is only mildly warm. So I am figuring that it would be okay to let the colas get close, like yours.

Seem right to you?

Lordy, I like your work.

Thanks!

guitarmarc.

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Posted 01 November 2008 - 10:45 PM

I'd say double plus a half again, Their is a interesting article I'll attach.
Im Starting this tomorrow for 4 weeks to give extra grow energy.
The aditional artical 21.36 / 12 Is actually FASINATING If you give it some thought.
I want to increase budding by 40% extra. 180g per tree FINGERS CROSSED:p
Added by: MisterIto
[DISCLAIMER]: This information is provided as experimental data and not fact.

The only photoperiod manipulation from years of experiments that offered discernible improvements was this adjustment made for 1 or 2 calendar weeks at the point of maximum flowering rate: Day length of 21 hours, 36 minutes with a dark period of 12 hours. To accomplish this, you need a 7 day, 24 hour digital timer. During a 7 day calendar week on Earth, the "sun" only cycles 5 times. This permits easily switching back to the regular 12/12 at your discretion. You may want to only alter during peak flower production to stimulate the plant's metabolism. Using this photoperiod throughout the flowering cycle will cause this:

A variety that takes 49 days of 12/12 to mature, won't see 49 - 12 hour dark periods under 21:36/12 until almost 10 calendar weeks have passed.

The total increase in light energy is almost 80%, which will produce larger yields, if all of your other enviromental conditions are kept optimal.

The total increase in flowering period is only 40%, half the potential room for improvement. This means you don't have to be perfect to win out.

Selective application of the 21:36/12 photperiod for only 1 or 2 weeks extends the wait only 2 to 4 Earth days, which makes up the missing 2 complete day and night cycles each week on Planet
Ito. This permits the additional light energy to be provided without purchasing additional equipment or overloading existing circuits, which maximizes the existing system's capabilities. The main advantage is that matched with co2 and optimal nutrition, the plants metabolism will increase dramatically. I have only successfully tested this photoperiod for two weeks. The potential for a net increase of 40% over the entire cycle (80% increase in light energy vs. 40% longer wait) is worthwhile. Don't be afraid!

Day 1 - Sunday, 6:00am til Monday, 3:36am
Day 2 - Monday, 3:36pm til Tuesday, 1:12pm
Day 3 - Wednesday, 1:12am til Wednesday, 10:48pm
Day 4 - Thursday, 10:48am til Friday 8:24am
Day 5 - Friday, 8:24pm til Saturday 6:00pm


Added by: MisterIto
I follow and highly recommend the following parameters for hydroponic nutrient solutions for aeroponic, "bubblers", drip, ebb and flow, NFT, passive, rockwool and wick systems.

PH 5.1-5.9 (5.2 optimal)
TDS 500-1000ppm, EC .75-1.5 (Mine have adapted to higher EC of 2.1 using Canna)
Temperature 68-78f, 20-25c (75f, 24c optimal)

The pH of the nutrient solution is a major determinant of nutrient uptake by the plant. If the pH wanders outside the optimum range of between pH 5.1 and pH 5.9, then nutritional deficiency and/or toxicity problems can occur. For hydroponic nutrient solutions used with inert media, keep the pH at 5.2 for optimal elemental uptake. It is at this point that roots most readily assimilate nutrients. These pH and TDS/EC recommendations may seem low relative to the normally suggested range, but are based upon information garnered from "Hydroponic Nutrients" by M. Edward Muckle and Practical Hydroponics and Greenhouses. They both document the low pH resulting in increased nutrient uptake and my experience has shown discernible health and yield improvements at a ph of 5.2 over higher levels.

On page 100, Hydroponic Nutrients displays both the assimilation chart for organic soil applications and another for inert medium hydroponics, which depicts the vastly different scenarios. The widely accepted soil based chart is frequently misapplied to water culture applications. His research and that done by others, documented in Practical Hydroponics and Greenhouses, indicate that iron and phosphorous precipitate in nutrient solutions at pH levels above 6. Stay below a pH of 6 by all means to avoid this problem and benefit.

The nutrient assimilation rate is further enhanced by the reduction in solution TDS/EC, which reduces osmotic pressure and allows the roots to draw the nutrients "easier". Young, established seedlings or rooted cuttings are started at 500-600ppm. The TDS is increased to 800-900ppm during peak vegetative growth. During the transition from early to heavy flowering, TDS is further raised to 1000-1100ppm. It is then reduced to 400-500ppm during the final 2 weeks of flushing. The plants demonstrate their preference for a lower TDS/EC when running a lower pH by clearly sustaining higher growth rates.

The optimum temperature for hydroponic solutions to be is 24c/75f. At this point, most elements are assimilated highest and atmospheric oxygen is most readily dissolved. Although increases in temperature increase the rate of photosynthesis, avoid exceeding the maximum listed of 25c/78f. Elevated temperatures make some elements more available, but reduce the solution's dissolved oxygen capacity, increasing root disease likelihood

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Posted 04 November 2008 - 04:45 PM

Thanks guys, yea i think i'm gunna go with the 600 Watt, i love bud haha:smoking:

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Posted 24 May 2010 - 07:36 PM

Rumpleforeskin!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Hey man very nice. Could you explain through every step your grow room and each stage what you use for nutrients, everything would be very much appreciated, i know you already gave some info on your setup. how do you get so many tops on one plant and it to create so much yeild, you are getting a lb per plant right?
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Posted 24 May 2010 - 07:49 PM

nthing asking rumple. He gets better results out of a 400W HPS than I've ever seen.

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Posted 02 March 2011 - 09:27 AM

I suggest 600w.

But i had a 400w and grew 6 plnts under it(max amount i think) and got 6oz=168g
I think max for a 400w is about 1/2lb=8oz=224g if you know your stuff(obviously its possible to get more but i wouldnt really expect a better yield than that with a 400watter)


Ive never done that poorly with a 400 watter.
you should be getting at LEAST 350g if you let them veg properly

After that it would just be height restrictions.

224g though, lol... you flower them in the styrofoam cups used to pop the seeds? hehEhEH lol :P jkz


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