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How can I help you? Car issues anyone?


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#81
Guest_italian stallion_*

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ok back to my 2002 sebring lol
when you put it in reverse or drive without pressing the gas it makes a really loud grinding noise, but again it doesn't do it when the car heats up


Man that sounds like a Tranny isssue. Check your transmission fluid right away. The reason it would do that when cold is the fluid is not flowing well enough yet. Try letting your car warm up more and see if that makes a difference. Either way have it checked out you may want to start looking for a new ride. That tranny job is not cheap.

#82
thesoftparade

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Man that sounds like a Tranny isssue. Check your transmission fluid right away. The reason it would do that when cold is the fluid is not flowing well enough yet. Try letting your car warm up more and see if that makes a difference. Either way have it checked out you may want to start looking for a new ride. That tranny job is not cheap.

that sounds right because sometimes the car jumps when shifting gears. looks like its time for a new car.

#83
Munga

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What do you think of the Acura Integra LS-S's? I am thinking about getting a '91.

#84
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What do you think of the Acura Integra LS-S's? I am thinking about getting a '91.


Gtreat car but be careful not to get one that has been abused. Being older they are prone for a few issues.ie: alternator,starter,distributor,oh and burning oil. If the car was raced or beat on the oil consumption will be bad. If your handy with cars it's a good car.
Honda products rock!!:smoke:

#85
head4life

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teg probably has a b18 non vtec boost it 10 psi you can push 250whp out of that little motor with some beefy cams a thick HG and a great tune

#86
gone fishin

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hey, i got a little problem

now im not the biggest mechanic in the world, but normally i can fix my own stuff

recently i started work on a 91 bronco, fullsized (get them bronco 2s outta here), its running a 351 windsor, and its bored out 40 over, new stronger tire rods/axles, new transmission & clutch (it started as an auto, but a friend of mine swapped it to a standard)

now heres the problem, i dont know the tranny thats in there, but it feels like 1st gears almost gone

i was told by the person who gave it to me (wife told him to get rid of it, wanted it at a good friends house) that it has a racing clutch and tranny in it from around the same year mustang, and i really dont know where to look for a rebuild kit or atleast just 1st gear

also, ive shaved alot of weight off of this beast, and believe me its pretty fast, but it feels as if it doesnt want to be kept at speeds under 45, it will not ride smoothly or shift smooth until im doing about 60. although i have built basically a race bronco now (i still gotta hook the bottles back up), i want to be able to drive normally with it...anything i can do about this?

#87
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hey, i got a little problem

now im not the biggest mechanic in the world, but normally i can fix my own stuff

recently i started work on a 91 bronco, fullsized (get them bronco 2s outta here), its running a 351 windsor, and its bored out 40 over, new stronger tire rods/axles, new transmission & clutch (it started as an auto, but a friend of mine swapped it to a standard)

now heres the problem, i dont know the tranny thats in there, but it feels like 1st gears almost gone

i was told by the person who gave it to me (wife told him to get rid of it, wanted it at a good friends house) that it has a racing clutch and tranny in it from around the same year mustang, and i really dont know where to look for a rebuild kit or atleast just 1st gear

also, ive shaved alot of weight off of this beast, and believe me its pretty fast, but it feels as if it doesnt want to be kept at speeds under 45, it will not ride smoothly or shift smooth until im doing about 60. although i have built basically a race bronco now (i still gotta hook the bottles back up), i want to be able to drive normally with it...anything i can do about this?


Having driven race cars in my past life I know what your talking about.
If an engine is tuned properly for a special purpose (racing) the cam will be designed to perform at higher rpms. Thus before or after the preferred rpm range the engine will run like crap. But with a bad tranny I would fix that first before you judge the performance of the engine.

1 change at a time.

Find a used tranny if you can.That's a tough one over the internet cuz of the modifications. Good luck it sound fun. You may have to pick. Everyday use or not.

#88
chevyguy2034

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i have long tube headers ( which removes the first set of cats) and a fuel map calibrator to.................... re-calibrate my fuel map after adding mods on my 05 Tundra

once every two weeks or so the engine will have problems idling at the right speed. it will slow down to about 500 RPMS and then rev back up to normal idle again - sometimes it dies sometimes it doesn't

I'm thinking its either a clogged fuel filter or something to do with the fuel map

#89
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i have long tube headers ( which removes the first set of cats) and a fuel map calibrator to.................... re-calibrate my fuel map after adding mods on my 05 Tundra

once every two weeks or so the engine will have problems idling at the right speed. it will slow down to about 500 RPMS and then rev back up to normal idle again - sometimes it dies sometimes it doesn't

I'm thinking its either a clogged fuel filter or something to do with the fuel map


Check your coolant level.Your throttle body has coolant going through it and coolant also runs through you fast idle valve and idle air control motor. If your coolant get low that the first place that does not get it. Could cause your idle to be jumpy.

Check engine light on? or did you take the bulb out? haha Some aftermarket upgrades play havoc with your ecm. Have you upgraded your computer too?

Good luck:smoking:

#90
chevyguy2034

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forgot to mention

the CEL has been on since i removed the cats
i have an O2 sensor simulator, but never got around to installing it

i'm pretty sure the calibrator isn't screwing up the ECM - i'm not stupid enough to buy a "chip" from anybody that claims power increases - i've done my research on this product

i'll check the coolant right now.................

EDIT: +rep, you know your stuff - coolant resevoir was about 20% full

one thing i don't do often enough is check my fluids

#91
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forgot to mention

the CEL has been on since i removed the cats
i have an O2 sensor simulator, but never got around to installing it

i'm pretty sure the calibrator isn't screwing up the ECM - i'm not stupid enough to buy a "chip" from anybody that claims power increases - i've done my research on this product

i'll check the coolant right now.................

EDIT: +rep, you know your stuff - coolant resevoir was about 20% full

one thing i don't do often enough is check my fluids


Keep checking your coolant. And check for a leak???? Where did the coolant go???

#92
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teg probably has a b18 non vtec boost it 10 psi you can push 250whp out of that little motor with some beefy cams a thick HG and a great tune


Your right great motor!!! Just hope some didn't use it up already.

#93
jedykid

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i have long tube headers ( which removes the first set of cats) and a fuel map calibrator to.................... re-calibrate my fuel map after adding mods on my 05 Tundra

once every two weeks or so the engine will have problems idling at the right speed. it will slow down to about 500 RPMS and then rev back up to normal idle again - sometimes it dies sometimes it doesn't

I'm thinking its either a clogged fuel filter or something to do with the fuel map


A clogged fuel filter will show up if you floor it on hwy and you have no power (large demand of fuel threw clogged filter) will cause a bogg.

If it's while idling:

1- could be IAC motor sticking
2- could be clogged EGR causing stalling issues.

Will this occur once warm (would eliminate the coolant issue)?

Install you o2 simulator a.s.a.p, ECM is in limp mode since there's no signal coming from your o2 sensors, the ECM over richens the fuel mixture since it doesnt know if your engine running rich/lean.

#94
jedykid

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actually i dont think i explained the complication as well as i could have.

my truck makes a squeaking noise when the engine revs. even when im stopped, so it couldnt be the breaks. but when im in neutral and i rev the engine the sqeaking will speed up with the RPMs. but this past weekend it rained a bunch and i noticed that the noise stopped. so i have no clue to what thats all about.

but the brake pedal thing i can understand that it would be the master cyl. i just had my brakes worked on like 6 or so months ago and it cost a lot of money but i know there was more they could have done. i just didnt have the money. but when i get my oil changed this week end i will ask them to look at it. thanks



To me the squealing sounds like a release bearing or pilot bearing (clutch related and rpms related, so either engine,tranny or driveline).

My nova has similar situation, if you push your clutch and goes in neutral at stand point, is it still present?

if not then its the release bearing squeaking (can be lubbed), also since it stopped when it rained doesn't make sense to me.

#95
jedykid

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When I turn the steering wheel I can hear a squeak coming from the engine bay.. sounds like something needs WD-40 ..can I fix this?

Some times my car will not start it just keeps turning over and my car is fairly new.. what would cause this?


I want to have a dealership grind my rotors down to get rid of a warp, my front one squeaks some times. Would grinding it repair the rotor?


Did you check you power sterring pump reservoir to make sure its full?

Try from a stand still, turn your steering wheels lock to lcok position (from complete left to right). If noise get worse,louder or differs, then either pump is low on fluid or pump itself is shot.

Start by checking fluid and do the test and reply.

#96
jedykid

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Anyone know where the coolant temp sensor is located on a 97 Dodge Neon? (sohc)


Suppose I could look it up on autozone or something but hey Im on here so why not. yes Im lazy right about now.



As per Mitchell Online:

On left side of cylinder head.


<CENTER>http://www.ondemand5..._BW=0&</CENTER>

#97
jedykid

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[quote name='CMANPfromtheVIP']I have a '98 Volkswagen Jetta (automatic) and sometimes when I stop, say at a stop sign and then go again, it seems to stall, like it can't catch the gears. The engine just revs and I'm not really moving or if I'm on a hill I'm moving backwards. The check engine light is also on and has been for awhile. I also slid into a guardrail but I don't think that has anything to do with it, except maybe throw the alignment off and which might be why the steering wheel shakes and vibrates sometimes.

I'm getting my car fixed tomorrow, so maybe I'll let them have a look at it but I don't wanna run the price up any more, since its already gonna cost $1,500 + for body work.

It's not like its a major problem right now, but I may not put any money into my car as I was planning on doing, except maybe subs, because I don't want my car to crap out on me. Hopefully its nothing serious with the transmission.[/quote]

If your not using your insurance. then it still sounds like your transmission needs a rebuild or replacement. Sorry.[/quote]


If the tranny issue was present prior to your accident then you know it's not related.

From what i understand if you give gas then the revs go up but the car doesnt go foward or will roll backward in a hill. It sound like the clutches are burnt and slipping or torque converter.

#98
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A clogged fuel filter will show up if you floor it on hwy and you have no power (large demand of fuel threw clogged filter) will cause a bogg.

If it's while idling:

1- could be IAC motor sticking
2- could be clogged EGR causing stalling issues.

Will this occur once warm (would eliminate the coolant issue)?

Install you o2 simulator a.s.a.p, ECM is in limp mode since there's no signal coming from your o2 sensors, the ECM over richens the fuel mixture since it doesnt know if your engine running rich/lean.


Hey dude what's up. Seems your highjacking my thread??? Not really sure why all the post have been reposted? You have 6 post and they are all on my thread? If you like the idea,and you do seem to know something, start another thread for yourself. I'm sure alot of people would be grateful.
Peace

#99
happy247

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so......this just happened today.
i have a 96 honda civic dx. all of the sudden, i can't open my drivers side door even if it's unlocked. it opens from the inside only. such a pain in my ass :mad:
when i pull the handle from the outside, it feels loose. like something isn't connected.
any idea of what this could be and how i can fix it?
many thanks :wave:
you rock:D

#100
chevyguy2034

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If it's while idling:

1- could be IAC motor sticking
2- could be clogged EGR causing stalling issues.

Will this occur once warm (would eliminate the coolant issue)?

Install you o2 simulator a.s.a.p, ECM is in limp mode since there's no signal coming from your o2 sensors, the ECM over richens the fuel mixture since it doesnt know if your engine running rich/lean.


this only occurs once every couple of weeks
and will occur when the engine is warm or cold

did not know that about my 02 sensor - will install it tomorrow or the day after - thanks




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