Calmag

Discussion in 'Coco Coir' started by Uncle Bob, Nov 8, 2015.

  1. Already read a lot about this online. I just want information from a recent time. Most of what I read were some time ago.


    So here's the scene. I'll be growing in Coco Coir and I read online you would be needing a CalMag supplement for this medium. Now I'll be using GH Flora series as my prime nutrients. Now the hydroponic store does not have any Calmag supplement (Said they might have some next year but cant wait that long.)


    What I got my hands on would be Calcium Nitrate and Magnesium Sulfate both by the kilo. Now I know if you mix them it makes gypsum which I read is a no-no. But I also read somewhere that you can add them separately. Also ready something about adding Chelated Iron (which I don't have access too as well.)


    Here are my questions as follow:


    1. If I do add them separately, I plan on mixing them each on their own bottles with water. What would be the ideal formula (grams per litre) for each substance?
    2. Would it be better if I add the powder separately yet directly to my nutrient water before I give them to my plants?
    3. Since I know I wouldn't be using a kilo of calcium nitrate of mg sulfate all in one go, how do I store these elements? (It's in this powder/crystal form like sugar.)

     
  2. Yo man! Cal/mag sucks balls. I really don't like that stuff at all. If you have the Flora series, you could try my method of ya wanted to.. Lots of guys have had really good luck following along with the way I do things. No ph, no PPm, just growing.


    Here my thread.. All the info is on the first couple pages and of course I can help you out as you go. Growing shouldn't have to be so difficult and confusing.. Check it out!


    http://forum.grasscity.com/coco-coir/1371748-ironheads-method-success.html
     
    • Like Like x 1
  3. Awesome. I'm just waiting for my two seeds to pop so I can throw it in the medium. Thanks!
     
  4. Well did your seeds pop I'm starting this method iron is talking about and its a proven fact this shizz works he is now my number one go to guy forsure and its didn't break the pockets since you already have most of the ingredients
     
  5. Cal mag is soo over blown. By adding a little mag..i.e. Epsom the whole equation is balanced and the plants respond. Cal mag adds a buttload of ppm to the equation as well. Man if u can tread cautiously
     
  6. Dude I'm on my first grow in coco and let me tell you it's all about the water you're using. Before you go any further decide what water you are going to use.

    If you're using RO water remember that it doesn't have any nutrients. Which means YOU had to literally give everything the plant needs. I did this way and ran into some trouble being a noob and all. I hope you have a PH pen or drops and a TDS meter because you have to monitor all that.

    If you're tap water is under 400 PPM I suggest going that way. I switched to just tap water (330ppm) and ditched the Calimagic. And now my plants are thriving and healing. I had bad CalMag issues.

    Also check out Heads forumla, works great with the GH series
     
  7. #7 Ravenboy, Apr 13, 2016
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2016
    good you are considering ca and mg separately ... if you have a Mg deficiency why add CA with your Mg to cure it? the added CA might cause other issues. Like even more Mg lockout.

    likewise using Calcinit to cure a Ca deficiency. why add more nitrogen with CA to cure a Ca deficiency? IF your N is at the right concentration why raise it to cure a Ca deficiency. I think CaO would be appropriate, and thats what i use.

    if you use a two part dry nutrient, and the second part is calcinit, thats another story. the Mixed parts might provide proper concentration of both Ca and Mg , which might or might not be compatible with the ca and mg in your water.

    In my case I i just try tap water for and see how it goes. But I AM curious about whats in my water so someday i will get an analysis anyway.

    so yes, best to design your nute regimen with your water in mind. If using tap water and you are good at reading plants, you'll know if your Ca or Mg are out of whack... just don't try to correct with calmag. or calcinit.

    most 1 part bottled nutes contain too little Mg IMO... Dry nutes (like JR Peters Jacks 15-12-26) can have suitable levels of both Ca and Mg, even for coco... the problem with Jacks that it has K on the high side for coco (thats why the Mg is so high at 6.3%) ... but if tithe K in it builds up in the coco to the point that it cause problems , a flush will fix it in short order usually.


    iff you can, use your tap water with coco. using RO water : its not about nutrients, your water had better NOT have ANY nutrients. Its about the dissolved minerals. If you water has High Mg and Ca already, using a 1 part bottled nute (with its low Mg concentration) might be perfect.

    yes a water test is a good idea if your PPMs are high. if under 200 i would not give it a thought ... but if your dissolved solids are mostly carbonates for example, the Ca in your nutes might be TOO high. thats why there are hard water version of nutes

    Calcium and Magnesium toxicity doesn't present much in the form of direct visible symptoms. Calcium toxicity can cause lockout of Magnesium.... so IMO it is unbelievable that the industry decided to package Ca and Mg as a supplement together. IF you have a calcium toxicity that results in magnesium lockout, you see classic Mg def symptoms in the leaves. so you add calmag. and the magnesium deficiency gets even worse.

    Magnesium deficiency is another story, it can cause lockouts, but diagnosing whats going on is hard IMO. Calcium apparently can easily cause Mg lockout, whereas Mg doesn't seem to cause any specific easy to identify lockouts... its just bad in an ionic disturbance type of way from what i have read on the web.

    Lots of growers use GH fora for coco.

    Your MgS04... be aware that that that is the composition of anhydrous Magnesium sulfate. Lots more potent (when measured by weight or volume) than Magnesium Heptahydrate Sulfate (MgSO4·7H 2O) also known as epsom salt. This is because it lacks the weight and volume of those 7 water molecules in epsom salt. If you measure by volume or weight this matters. If you measure by PPM it doesn't matter since the water molecules in the epsom salt won't contribute to PPM levels.

    Perhaps you meant standard Magnesium Heptahydrate Sulfate (this is what is sold in the pharmacies of most, but not all countries)



    just don't use that Calcium nitrate. you don't need the extra nitrogen. its usually a lot... like as high as 15-0-0 ( a relatively common NPK for calcium nitrate)
     

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