gfci? yea it sounded like a trip but was thinking at the time i probably just burned up ~$200 worth of cobs so i just wanted to try and wire them up regular, and not mess with all that until i was for sure it was all good
gfci.... gfi same thing. If you live in the states, you should have them in the bathrooms and in the kitchen. Basically anywhere you have water and electricity. They should look like this http://m.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-15-Amp-125-Volt-Duplex-Self-Test-Slim-GFCI-Outlet-White-R72-GFNT1-0RW/205996720 You can get a portable one too http://m.homedepot.com/p/Defiant-Plug-In-GFCI-Adapter-3-Wire-Grounding-30339036/203741464
i heard that little zap before, it was from a short. from .solder was hitting the heatsink, so make sure alll your wires arent frayed ,even 1 little strand can make it go...bzzzzttttt..looks good bud, nice work WwW
man that may be it, some of my solid wire kept getting the coating torn going through the holes i made to go through the heatsink. thought i clipped off all the bad pieces but maybe i missed some
Pro-tip for passing wire though holes in the sinks. Always countersink the holes this can easily be done by starting the hole with a highspeed TI bit or equivalent that is 2x the size of your hole needed such that you leave just an indent in the aluminum base. Then swap to the smaller bit and push the hole all way through the middle of the indent. This should give you a rather smooth contour to route your wire through your panel! See: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Countersink
Also a deburring tool helps but a bit sand paper should suffice! Make sure BOTH sides of the hole are fully debuured!
found all this usefull info on rapidled.com My string lights up but I have a few LEDs that aren't lighting, does this mean my LEDs are bad? How can I fix this? Not necessarily! If you have a multimeter, you can perform a continuity test, which will probably tell you why certain LEDs are not lighting up: they are grounded to the heatsink somehow. Continuity refers to two things electrically connected. For example, if two parts are connected by a wire, they are continuous. To perform this test, set the multimeter to measure continuity (usually the 'diode' setting) and ensure no power is applied to your LED string. Next, touch one probe to the heatsink and the other probe to each solder joint of every LED, going around your string until all joints have been examined. If you hear a beep or get 0.000 reading at a particular joint, there is continuity (conductivity) between that joint and the heatsink (this means there is an electrical path between that solder pad and the heatsink, which we call grounding). This solder joint will have to be re-done since the LED string should be completely isolated from the heatsink electrically for the string to work properly. WwW
Evening everyone! I've been doing lots and lots of reading over the past few days about DIY LED's with no prior knowledge of electronics/lighting etc. I'm also working towards my first grow so there's lots of new information and ideas flowing.. Could you guys tell me if this sounds right so far? for a light drawing a true ~180 watts, these are some of the drivers/COBS i'm looking at Bridgelux BXRC-3CG10k0-L-03 http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/BXRC-40E1... Meanwell HLG-240H-C2100 http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mean-Well/HLG-... so the COBS are 38.6v @ 3.15A max current. running them at 50% brings us to 38.6v @ 1.575A, or 29.925w per COB. for a 180w setup, i'd want 6 COBS? And to drive all 6 cobs is 231.6v, using 2 of the above meanwells would be 115.8v for each one. is this all correct information so far? i'll handle the other details later, just want to make sure I have the fundamentals down.. Thanks for reading!
38.6 x 1.575 = 60.795 watts per cob 6 cobs = ~ 360 watts The driver you are looking at is not released yet. How is your heat managment? Do you have a good exhaust?
5x5 with 1000w HPS + two 90w LEDs currently, wanting to run the 360w with the 1000w and use the 90s for clones. 747CFM inline was the plan but i could bump it up if you dont think that'd be enough? or did you mean heatsinks for the panel? planned on using one 115v fan and a couple computer fans maybe, with a some quality extruded Al hmm.. seems that the driver isn't out indeed.. thanks for the correction...360w sounds much better than 180 lol! had a bunch of shit written down in my notebook and added an extra part to the equation. oops. in that case, maybe it'd be better for me to make 2 180W panels for each side of my HPS, or even two 200watters.. winter is coming, i plan on using the heat from my exhaust to heat the house so regulating shouldnt be an issue
Since that one hasn't been released yet, how does this one look? http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mean-Well/HLG-...
That one will do. 3 vero29 @2.1A will give you approximately 240watts. That is dimmable though, so you can adjust. Someone might say not to run them that hard, but I think you'll be fine as I understand you wanna just use them as a supplement to your 1000w hps. I didn't know any of the 240 watt MW drivers were out yet, but if mouser says so. Someone else might think different
Lol. I just saw two of them disappearing as I was browsing through the specs. Only one left and it says it will be 11 more weeks for more.
You might need to solder them as well... Unless someone has it mapped out how to connect them in series without the ez mates
haven't really looked at heatsinks yet... for a 3 COB panel, maybe a 12" sink with a 6ish inch profile? soldering is cool with me although i've never really done it before... any recommendations on a good iron? i'll be sure to practice on some scrap wire first. also, i should lap the heatsink with a 1000 grit wetsand? correct? TY for all the help!