Is the soil mix you used good for starting? Or do you guys know of a better starting soil to place seeds in after germination?. I know after transplant I'm more than likely using a mix of the happy frog. Is it necessary to start in a small cup or can you just start in a big pot right away? I hope these seeds do me good
Happy frog will work fine, I use roots organics (the original) for all. I wouldn't start in anything bigger than a gallon but that's just my opinion. If you start a seedling in day a 5 gal and water throughly, there will not be enough roots to drink it all and you will start having over watering issues. Better to start in something small and develop some roots then transplant http://forum.grasscity.com/index.php?/topic/1383846-Cali%27s-Corner
They're starting to, definitely looking better than how I discovered them. I'm going to get them transplanted today. Going to put 2 of them into 100% Ocean Forrest and the other one into a mix of 50% Ocean Forrest and 50% happy frog. Just because its my first grow, I want to see if I can see a difference.
Transplant went very well! Solo cups to 3 gallon pots, didnt hit any issues. Using probably 75% Ocean Forrest 25% Happy frog in each pot. Was going to go 100% ocean forrest, but the whole bag didnt fill all 3 pots as much as I wanted them to so I mixed in some of my Happy frog. Here they are in their new homes. Some leaves are still a little droopy from the underwatering, but they are definitely 100% better than they were last night,. and Yes if the rate at which they drink their water can dictate when its time to transplant than you were 100% correct cali, It had only been about 30 hours since their last watering and they had drooped so hard they were starting to look like steamed spinach haha. And before anyone says anything about under vs over watering. I did research into it. They were droopy and lifeless looking, not curling, and the soil was almost bone dry.
Nothing for the next week or so, ocean forrest is pretty hot, I'm using mostly general hydroponics, I posted a pic of everything I have on the first page of the thread.
Here's a good post from SG1 @CaliSmoker Info for your teaching purposes. From the C.O.B. thread. Sometimes we don't understand the root system and suspected over or underwatering. Whether over or underwatering, the root system can get compromised. For now, we will figure out the problem later. In troubleshooting, the fix is always the first thing we deal with. Start with your temps. 1. Keep your grow space at between 75-82F or about 25-30C Warmth = evaporation = stimulated roots = growth. 2. Use a drip pan for watering to catch run off. When you get run off, leave the pot in the water for 30 minutes to allow soil to get saturated in case it's underwatered. After a 1/2 an hour, remove the excess. 3. Lift your pots always, your brain to hand connection is a much more accurate measuring tool. Regardless of pot size, Check before and after every watering. 4. Put the plant at the brightest spot in the room. More light = more energy for root and plant growth. As your plant recovers you'll notice it going from 5-7 days between watering, to every 2 days. At the point you get to the 2 day mark regularly, then time to TP. Added notes Roles of oxygen for good roots. Let me compare your soil to our lungs. Here's some science, hang on, here it comes. Ok. The laws of displacement apply here. When you fill a cup 2 things happen. 1. Water goes in. 2. Air pushed out. That's displacement. As your pots head towards the dry side air is sucked in to replace the water. Thus pulling in oxygen. When you water, the opposite happens. Water in, air out. Proper water technics allow constant removal and replacement of air. Thats how it works. Once you tune your watering technics in, it will allow for healthy plants everytime. Now as far as letting your pots dry up. This is correct, but still can be tricky. So say a soggy swamp is a 10, and a desert is a 1. what you want to achieve is keeping your soil between a 3 to an 8. Of course this is subjective from one grower to another, but the point is the same. Clawing and its Causes I'll explain what I know to be fact with a touch of opinion. And you folks see if it makes sense to you. Cannabis leaves have a framework under the leaves much like our arteries, veins, and cappilaries. This system delivers water and converted soil sugars to the leaves. You will all notice when you water, the leaves curl downward, sometimes severely. This is caused by a sudden influx of water pumped to the leaves. The bottoms of your leaves are able to bend, but not stretch. All the fluids are pushed to the leaf tops, which expand. Thus causing the leaf to curl. Clawing or curled tips are caused by underwatering a plant a bit dry. When you do finally catch up on your watering, the tips which curled normally are hyper curled and just don't straighten up. Clawing is not a problem, and is just a symtom of a past watering issue. This usually happens in too small of containers being used, and the plant is drinking up the watering too quick. Hope that made sense. Also some deleafing tips Rule of thumb. 1. Never treat your plant as a group, only individually, as every plant has it's own needs. 2. Only thin out a plant when necessary, not as just a routine. Facts as I see it. 1. When a leaf is grown over and in the shadows, it's ability to gather light even if 100% healthy is minimal. It literally consumes more energy than it provides. 2. When a leaf turns any shade of yellow, it's dying, and serves little purpose. Some will argue that the leaf's energy is being consumed by the plant, which I disagree with. IME as in nature, turning colors is the final act of death. 3. Deleafing offers 2 good things. Opens up the plant to more air flow, and inadvertently discards any fowl creatures living on them(if present). Just getting your face into your plant helps you find out if your plants are infested by bugs. Tips for deleafing. Every leaf grows from a node base, and feeds a % of it's collected energy both to branch growth and root growth. When contemplating removal, it's always best to allow the branch off the node to contain at least 2-3 new nodes with new leaves. In other words, if you remove a leaf feeding a branch, make sure the branch has enough leaves to take the place of the removed leaf. Always error on the side of caution, if you're not sure, leave it. Not all plants require much deleafing during the growth stages, where as some choke themselves out. For flowering plants, I use the same routines through flowering, but during the last 2 weeks before harvest I remove all leaves which contain no trichomes on the leaf. This allows less trash leaf in your trim for processing hash for use. http://forum.grasscity.com/index.php?/topic/1383846-Cali%27s-Corner
So uhh.... I swear I havent skipped any days in my photo log. They seem to have almost doubled in size since I left for work this morning. The tips of some of the leaves on the left most one are clawed a little bit, probably just getting used to the Ocean forrest, but seriously WOW what an immediate result from that transplant.
Looking good buddy!! Nice big pots, how many gallons? Now you just need to sit back and let them do their thing for a bit. Remember that pot doesn't have many roots in it so I wouldn't saturate the whole thing come next watering. Always consider how big your root zone is and water accordingly. Gonna be important to start planning, how big do you want them to be before flipping to flower? They will double sometimes triple in size when they transition from veg to flower. Is your flowering area big enough for that? Is it light proof? Do you want or need a carbon filter? Start thinking about these things!! Looking good keep it up http://forum.grasscity.com/index.php?/topic/1383846-Cali%27s-Corner
Day 19, probably going to go ahead and do some LST work on the left most one since its already twice as tall as the other two. Funny enough that one didnt come out of the ground until almost 2 days after the other two, was the smallest until the transplant, and was the most affected by my noob nute burn mistake.
End of day 21, nodes on the LST'd plant are facing towards the light. I'm hoping to do the one on the right tomorrow, lefty is still a little too short to tie down I think.
Day 22 got one more tied. The one on the left is still short, though the new shoots from the topping are starting to really show. The white line in the middle plant is a bent part of a coat hanger I used to sort of hold the 2 top fan leaves away from the nodes coming off the main stalk, the kept growing up and over and shading the rest of the plant. Side View
So I've been noticing this lately, Havent considered it could be some kind of infestation until now because I Havent been in my place of living for very long, and I know the place is regularly treated for pests. It looks like something is definitely eating my plants, The leaves dont appear to be decaying at all, but they have clearly been munched and I'm 100% sure its not the cat. Please help me, I have no idea what to do about this, or what it even is. I Don't want to end up using the wrong solution to the wrong problem.