New Space Bucket Grower- HELP

Ok brother 4um! So sorry I'm late to the party, but I see my very good blades have come to help you. God I love this city and welcome bro!

 

Hey bro! Waddup? What do you think of this guy's plants? Why are they so droopy? Do you agree with our conclusions? Dude you are the man, your opinion is the shit around here.

 

I really need someone to copy the pics to their phone and repost them here. My tablet won't seen to let me open the pictures, I'd love to help gil. Thanks bro, your support means the world. I've actually never had people think so highly of me. I'm still getting used to it. Thanks alot gil man that bri

 

So, I had some extra time on my hands. I saved the pictures of the two plants and am attaching them to this. Your welcome broski


The first two are a before and after comparison. I think the after pic is first. The last two are of the same plant. Wow they are huge files!

 

Ahhhh, I see gil thanks brohamms for sure.
They need foood!

They look very hungry and are taking from the leafs what she needs to survive which tells me 2 things. Either there isn't enough food for her to eat, or there is but it's locked out do to ph.

The one at the very bottom looks over watered?
I though he was hempy?
Let me go back and look.

 

Definitely over watered and hungry, probably not absorbing the nutes due to the damage the roots took by being over watered. Gonna post something SG1 shared with me, I knew it would be handy haha, one sec


http://forum.grasscity.com/index.php?/topic/1383846-Cali%27s-Corner

 

@CaliSmoker
Info for your teaching purposes.
From the C.O.B. thread.

Sometimes we don't understand the root system and suspected over or underwatering.
Whether over or underwatering, the root system can get compromised.
For now, we will figure out the problem later.
In troubleshooting, the fix is always the first thing we deal with.
Start with your temps.
1. Keep your grow space at between 75-82F or about 25-30C
Warmth = evaporation = stimulated roots = growth.
2. Use a drip pan for watering to catch run off.
When you get run off, leave the pot in the water for 30 minutes to allow soil to get saturated in case it's underwatered.
After a 1/2 an hour, remove the excess.
3. Lift your pots always, your brain to hand connection is a much more accurate measuring tool.
Regardless of pot size, Check before and after every watering.
4. Put the plant at the brightest spot in the room.
More light = more energy for root and plant growth.
As your plant recovers you'll notice it going from 5-7 days between watering, to every 2 days.
At the point you get to the 2 day mark regularly, then time to TP.

Added notes

Roles of oxygen for good roots.
Let me compare your soil to our lungs. Here's some science, hang on, here it comes.
Ok. The laws of displacement apply here. When you fill a cup 2 things happen.
1. Water goes in. 2. Air pushed out. That's displacement.
As your pots head towards the dry side air is sucked in to replace the water. Thus pulling in oxygen.
When you water, the opposite happens. Water in, air out. Proper water technics allow constant removal and replacement of air. Thats how it works.
Once you tune your watering technics in, it will allow for healthy plants everytime.
Now as far as letting your pots dry up. This is correct, but still can be tricky.
So say a soggy swamp is a 10, and a desert is a 1. what you want to achieve is keeping your soil between a 3 to an 8. Of course this is subjective from one grower to another, but the point is the same.

Clawing and its Causes
I'll explain what I know to be fact with a touch of opinion.
And you folks see if it makes sense to you.

Cannabis leaves have a framework under the leaves much like our arteries, veins, and cappilaries.
This system delivers water and converted soil sugars to the leaves.
You will all notice when you water, the leaves curl downward, sometimes severely.
This is caused by a sudden influx of water pumped to the leaves.

The bottoms of your leaves are able to bend, but not stretch.
All the fluids are pushed to the leaf tops, which expand.
Thus causing the leaf to curl.

Clawing or curled tips are caused by underwatering a plant a bit dry.
When you do finally catch up on your watering, the tips which curled normally are hyper curled and just don't straighten up.

Clawing is not a problem, and is just a symtom of a past watering issue.
This usually happens in too small of containers being used, and the plant is drinking up the watering too quick.
Hope that made sense.

Also some deleafing tips

Rule of thumb.
1. Never treat your plant as a group, only individually, as every plant has it's own needs.
2. Only thin out a plant when necessary, not as just a routine.
Facts as I see it.
1. When a leaf is grown over and in the shadows, it's ability to gather light even if 100% healthy is minimal.
It literally consumes more energy than it provides.
2. When a leaf turns any shade of yellow, it's dying, and serves little purpose.
Some will argue that the leaf's energy is being consumed by the plant, which I disagree with.
IME as in nature, turning colors is the final act of death.
3. Deleafing offers 2 good things.
Opens up the plant to more air flow, and inadvertently discards any fowl creatures living on them(if present).
Just getting your face into your plant helps you find out if your plants are infested by bugs.
Tips for deleafing.
Every leaf grows from a node base, and feeds a % of it's collected energy both to branch growth and root growth.
When contemplating removal, it's always best to allow the branch off the node to contain at least 2-3 new nodes with new leaves.
In other words, if you remove a leaf feeding a branch, make sure the branch has enough leaves to take the place of the removed leaf.
Always error on the side of caution, if you're not sure, leave it.
Not all plants require much deleafing during the growth stages, where as some choke themselves out.
For flowering plants, I use the same routines through flowering, but during the last 2 weeks before harvest I remove all leaves which contain no trichomes on the leaf.
This allows less trash leaf in your trim for processing hash for use.



http://forum.grasscity.com/index.php?/topic/1383846-Cali%27s-Corner

 

That was very informative thx for sharing that I think that is good for nooks aswell as experts to reread

 

nice!

 

Credit goes to SG1, I'm just spreading the knowledge


http://forum.grasscity.com/index.php?/topic/1383846-Cali%27s-Corner

 

doing better for sure brother

 

I would flush yes especially if you don't know how hot it is, and as far as ties down, hmmm, you could fold the entire plant over to one side like so

 

Yea I would give it a good flush with ph'd water. Like 2-3 gallons worth! This will ensure there are no salts in the coco causing ph problems. With the last watering of your flush, give it nutes and ph. Make sure you don't do this until it's dry and actually needs watering. The plant is looking a lot better, I think you were overwatering. The roots were probably damaged from overwatering, making it hard to take up the nutes you were supplying which would result in higher salt levels in your medium, causing a ph problem. Could also be some salts in the coco since you didn't pre flush it making the problem even worse. Look up pre flush requirement using coco and see what's recommended so you know for the next grow. Looking better tho!! Just make sure you keep it up and don't over water


http://forum.grasscity.com/index.php?/topic/1383846-Cali%27s-Corner

 

Also about the LST, it seems you have a very dense indica. It's gonna be a short plant that's for sure, you might wanna think about throwing it into flower sooner than later if you have height limitations. A defoil will help you as will


http://forum.grasscity.com/index.php?/topic/1383846-Cali%27s-Corner

 

What temps do you have and what is humidity in there? Do you know what they are? Could be high heat adding to the root problem.


Do not defoliate the plant. I have researched that defol really doesn't do anything but stress the plant. Dead leaves or dying leaves should be removed. If it is turning yellow, it is dying and pull it off. You will want all the leaves you can get with its small size.

 

Reason I advised him to defoil is he's using 4 small CFL's on an extremely dense plant. He is going to get zero penetration. De foiling is gonna help BIG TIME IMO. Defoliation is definitely debatable. Read post 47 in this thread. Scroll down to defoil rule of thumb tips, those were provided by SG1 who is an excellent grower. Matter of fact I believe you just subbed to his thread. He also has another thread called cheap old bastards you should check out! Chocked full of advice. Anyways to each there own but I wanted you to read some of SG's reasoning behind defoliation as well as hear my reasoning. Happy Growing Brother!


http://forum.grasscity.com/index.php?/topic/1383846-Cali%27s-Corner

 

I would have to agree with cali on this one don't go nuts when defo just take off what you need to open her up for light penetration you could top it as well if you top it i would do it asap. If you top it it will cause your plant to start growing the side branches I would not top more then 2 or 3 times myself cause when you top it you increase your bud sites and after topping you will now have two dominent colas instead of one but your 2 colas won't be as big as just one cola. The 2 colas will weigh more after harvest then the 1 bigger cola would weigh. Everytime you top your main colas you will lncrease number of main colas but decrease the size of the main cola. Some plants react better to topping then others so that's one thing just to try and if it works out good and you plan on cloning or keeping those genetics then you know if it is good to top how many times you can top before diminishing your yield etc. As for the lst if none of the branches are long enough then don't worry about lst yet unless you don't top it then you can lst the main cola by gently bending it over not to kink it like supercropping but just bending gently and tying it down some how. By doing either method this will cause your side branching to develop more and then once the branches start growing then you can lst them just to open the plant up for better light penetration all you can do is play with all the different methods and develop your own method that works for you and your growing space
Know about the hieght I'm sure you have researched this a bit when you switch to flower cycle your plants are gonna go through a stage that is generally called the strecth this will take place for the first 2 or 3 weeks of switching to 12/12 light cycle. Your plants may stretch up to 3x it's height but may only stretch 1x the size of your plant this all depends on the strain so another thing to keep notes if you plan on keeping that strain going it will help you determine when to flip to flower. Now me just being a beginner this is just what I have noticed as a general rule sativa will stretch more then indica but again something you should keep in mind when flowering a strain for the first time just so you know when to flip in future runs if you plan on keeping that specific strain.idk if this info was useful I hope it helps you understand a little more about your plants

 

Your plan looks good def flush with ro phd water if you don't have an ro machine then let your tap water sit for 24 hours prior to using this will eliminate the chlorine I would also put an air stone in the water if you have one and if you let your water sit for the 24 hours and after flush let it dry up for a few days pick up the pot and feel the weight of it before and after water this will help you determine how much water is needed if any if it's real heavy chances are it doesn't need water if it is superhighway it prob needs water bad don't let it dry all the way out but let it get fairly dry hopefully with all this info from everyone will get you back on track