Heat: krazy old lady could use guidance

Before anyone else ask over and over we're going to need pics of the girls and your setup that will give everybody a chance to help find a solution to your problem

 

I am growing in a grow tent 3x 2 x 4.5 ft. With 2 x 4 " inline fan. The climate here is 30- 34 deg with humidity ranging from 50- 65.
I am facing the same heat problem. And the 300w led is not helping. Whenever I the led light is on and the grow tent door is shut, temp inside can reach 37-39 deg c.
What I do is I give silicate blast by botanicare to help plant cope with heat stress. Keep grow area windy and on air con with temp set at 25 deg c whenever the light LED light is on. Alway keep the grow tent door open. Night time is cooler with temperature range from 26-31 deg so air con is not necessary. And my plants are striving and almost harvest time.


Hope it help. Good luck

 

Heat sucks and my personal experience is with growing outdoors, but me personally, my plants are normally fine so long as its not 90 degrees plus outside with high humidity and normally will not experience heat shock.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

 

did you sprinkle D.E. all over the leaves? is that the white dust that's all over?

 

From the comment on your photos it sounds like you have a little case of fungal gnats.. They love a wet soil so they tend to hang around our grows and while the adults are just annoying the larva can be destructive..
http://www.homedepot.com/s/mosquito+dunks?NCNI-5 Mosquito dunks are usually found outside near the citronella candles.. Crush up a dunk and sprinkle a pinch or 3 depending on pot size about once a month to keep the little buggers under control.. Sticky traps on stakes for the adults or some neem oil spray will take out the adults..
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If your temps are to high the solution is more exhaust.. Bright lights in small spaces all suffer the same issues.. If you don't get your temps under control in veg while the plants are thin and spindly your sure to have a nightmare of mold as things get tighter with flowering and the rise in room humidity that comes with increasing plant mass.. A sure fire recipe for trouble.. A high CFM fan with speed controller is ideal.. You can always turn an over sized fan down..
http://hydrobuilder.com/fans-filters-environment/grow-room-fans-blowers/inline-fans.html go with a bigger inline fan and matching speed controller that moves enough CFM to get the job done..
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Pots and watering--- I like square pots.. You get the maximum soil per plant in your small spaces and it prevents the tap root circling you find in round pots.. I start very small 3x3x3 inch pots and transplant at 12 inches tall to a 6x6x7.. Water by lifting the pot.. Really light water.. Actually let one wilt to understand just how dry they can get.. All newbees overwater.. You just can't resist LOL sorry but it's all to true.. Find your nearest hydro shop and walk around.. Maybe buy a few square pots.. Price his fans, most brick stores will come close in price to online if pressed a bit.. Like all shopping know your price range before hand..
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It's early.. I'm stoned.. Did I cover it all ?? Opps no.. Are you in a legal state?? Can you grow outside?? Enough for now happy growing BNW

 

I would get that D.E. off the leaves. it doesn't work that way. its gotta be in the soil to have any pest management properties.

 

Do you test the PH of your mix before you water?


I am seeing some corkscrewing on the leaves

 

You don't need a fan for intake. Use all of your fans for exhaust.

 

Krazyoldlady I think your avatar looks hot. Is that you in the pic?

 

Your hydro guy was correct and toss that PH test kit in the drawer you don't need it.. Stop pouring gallons of useless water through your soil.. Flushing.. Here is what the smartest guy on the city I've known has to say on flushing..
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Pimp T, on 12 May 2015 - 8:13 PM, said:
hey coot how does the whole "flushing" soil thing apply to the Clackamas coot mix? What are your thoughts on flushing LOS? Should aloe silica coconut water ful power and SST watering stop 2 weeks prior to harvest?
Here's the most recent answer that I gave to this question a couple of weeks ago....
Chlorophyll b is the 'type' found in plants as we're defining it. Other structures are found in algae, cyanobacteria, et al.
Here is the molecular formula - C55H70O6N4Mg so we're looking at 55 Carbon ions, 70 Hydrogen ions, 6 Oxygen ions, 4 Nitrogen ions and 1 Magnesium ion. All 6 forms of chlorophyll have one consistent dynamic, i.e. a single Magnesium ion. Not two, not three - one. So much for the mythology about magnesium-hungry plants or worse in the wacky weed world where specific 'strains' can be magnesium-hungry. Looking at just chlorophyll b a better myth would be carbon-hungry or hydrogen-hungry and maybe even oxygen-hungry and nothing to do with magnesium.
My understanding of this worst example of stoner science is that by dumping copious amounts of water somehow water with it's simple H2O formula is able to reach up from the root zone then into a plant's vascular system and deconstruct a fairly complex molecule - that must be some really unique water indeed!
In a dynamic called translocation plants can and do move materials from leaves to other tissues - that is established botany. Plants produce carbohydrates (sugars) in the leaves by photosynthesis but non-photysynthetic parts of the plant also require carbohydrates and other organic and nonorganic materials. It's for this reason that nutrients are translocated from sources (regions of excess carbohydrates, primarily matures leaves) to what are called sinks.
?Some important sinks are roots, flowers, fruits, stems and developing leaves. Leaves are particularly interesting in the translocation process because they are sinks when they are young and become sources later when they are about half-grown.
Carbohydrates are simply Carbon, Hydrogen and Oxygen molecules, i.e. simple sugars.
So let's say for sake of silliness that flushing can trigger translocation which must be a real threat for rice plants, where are the chlorophyll molecules going? They can't be destroyed because they're elements which cannot be destroyed or changed unless of course we're talking about cannabis which has special properties that negate almost every law of botany, biology, chemistry, physics imaginable.
My simple question is this: once this special water deconstructs the chlorophyll compound where do the ions go? Into thin air? That would be difficult since Magnesium is a metallic element but again we have to suspend even common sense to shore-up the flushing argument so who knows? Perhaps a special air canopy is created from flushing which can move magnesium around at will.
Even if water could deconstruct and force translocation of elements doesn't that defeat the purpose in the first place which is claimed that flushing will remove the nasties causing us to not have dank! If the mature leaves are the repository the why would you want to move these ions to the buds which you plan on consuming?
It's difficult to write this stuff without falling out of my chair with laughter. The argument fails on every level - even common sense.
Fire away! I'm wearing stainless-steel Fruit of the Loom briefs - I can take it!
CC
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• End quote:: Needless to say I don't flush.. I don't PH my 8.5 ph high PPM city hose water either.. It's soil and you just don't need to screw with any of that shit.. Proof is in the pudding as us old farts say.. My soil has been used over and over again and it's a dead simple mix being mostly..
• 50% well used FFOF (fox farms ocean forest)
• Promix peat in 2 cf cube = lowes
• Composted chicken manure = lowes
• Ecoscraps compost = home depot
• Perlite in 2 cubic foot bags = home depot
• Alfalfa pellets = feed and tack store.. Pet store rabbit chow will do for smaller amounts..

Blue Berry shown here is a damn fussy strain usually dropping fan leafs left and right from the get go.. All dialed in this one hasn't skipped a beat in my low cost near zero effort hose water only organic grow.. Just my 2 cents.. BNW
Edit.. Instead of drowning your plants let them dry to the point of wilting to see just how light that pot is when that happens.. Won't hurt and it's amazing to watch how it recovers in just 60 seconds..