Subwoofer stolen

Wayyyy too much money. Buy the shit online and install it yourself. The wiring is all done and ready you just need the equipment. Fuck that shop for trying to charge you more of an install fee when it's pretty much done already

 

Check around audio forums, have a price point in mind, and see what kind of quality you can get for it. The subwoofer market is constantly changing and I haven't been in the scene for at least 5 years. But you do some research, maybe post a thread asking for help, and then check out eBay. You'll find great deals for anything you're looking for there.

 

Might wanna check out craigslist too. I found killer deals on there many times. Just be sure to hear it before you buy it. Ive heard the suggestion of meeting in a police parking lot for security... Its an idea. At least meet in a busy public place.

Hooking it up it is fairly simple.

FAT RED WIRE = +
FAT BLACK WIRE = -
Blue wire = Remote
Speaker wires +/- (Red/Marked = +)

That about covers it. Should take less than 5 minutes to hook it up. Make sure you use a quality #2 Phillips screwdriver, and dont over tighten them.



FWIW I was running four 12's in two boxes (2X12 sealed, 2X12 bandpass) on about 2000 watts in my Lincoln Town Car. Got it all at either flea markets, craigslist or yard sales. Took a while to piece it together, but it was the tightest system in town, and I spent less than half of what anyone else spent for shitty, muddy, crap

 

weight reduction bro.

 

order yourself a sundown sa12, go online and find some "sub-enclosure calculator" and build yourself a properly tuned and ported box, you want the box to be tuned right around the resonant freq of the sub. I did this in my car and only changing from a kicker comp vr12 in a sealed box to the sa12 in my homemade and properly designed box made an absolutely rediculous difference. It went from "oh you got a sub" to pissing off people in the backseat, friends not getting in car without me agreeing to not turn it up, and getting "yo you got a sub" when i turned it off way before getting to someone house. I should also note the sundown had half the ohms making it get way better use of the available watts in the amp.

 

Using a speaker with half the amplifiers rated ohms effective doubles the amps output wattage. Great until the amp catches fire
[NOTE] Some amps are stable down to 1 ohm, and this is not a concern. NEVER run your amp at a lower ohm than it is rated for!!
Good tip on creating a proper custom box though.


If you cant build one, at least re-enforce, deaden, and seal a store bought one. Most are pretty cheaply built and leak a lot. Any leaks decrease the efficiency of the sub, which decreases the SPL's.



*Most* amps are bridgeable, and most are stable to 2 ohms. I was running DVC's wired to 2 ohms and then in parellel to make it 1 ohm to the 1ohm stable 1000W amps.
Also note that if you're running at the lowest stable ohms, you're getting the max RMS out of your amp. Double the ohms, half the wattage and visa versa. If your amp is rated @ 1000W @ 1 ohm and you're running it at 4 ohms (Normal SVC car audio) you're only getting 250W out of the amp.
Pro Tip:

You should always put 25% more power to a speaker than its rating (A dual 100W speaker set-up should get 250W amp for 125W-P/C) You dont want to have to max out the amp gain to get good power. Maxing it out causes distortion, muddy sound, and decreases the life of the amp.


There are plenty of sites and diagrams on how to wire the speakers properly depending on the type of speakers you get (DVC/SVC)
Check out this site for more in depth info...
http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configura...

 

I would always use 3/4 Mdf for a floor and to screw amps and enclosures into. Make a plate to cover it all up. Do a plate on the enclosure to cover up the screwes on the subs.
If you get broken into again it will be differcult for the Theives to unscrew the subs if the plate is in the way
Make everythi stealthy
In short, make it differcult for the thieves to take your shit.
Happy bumping

 

Pfft - I yanked the A/C and emission systems for that.. But I left the four 12's in the trunk
IDK why I was the only one pounding Biggie down the 1/4
That fat bitch still ran in the mid 15's at 65MPH bone stock... Post H.O. conversion I was in the high 14's @ 70
For a 4100lb (+ subs and system) car.. Thats really movin


I thought of maybe putting a huffer or NOS on it to see what she'd do, but it was too rotted for any serious engine work, and towing all my shit killed the trans

 

my favorite system was a guy who had four 15s in the back seat and four 1000 watt Amps in the trunk. He used 8ga wire for speaker wire. It was loud enough where I couldn't sit in his car when he turned it up.

 

yah so i was 4@500rms and now im 2 @1000 or something like that, i dont even really remember. Trust me i am within the specs of the amp, i calculated out the tuning and built my own 3/4 mdf ported enclosure, you dont go through those efforts without quickly looking up if your ohms are compatible when you buy the speaker. Im pretty good at crossing my t's and dotting my lowercase j's if you know what i mean.

 

When I first got into it I didnt even know what "bridging an amp" was...
Now everyone wants me to do their system lol
Took a lot of reading, but now I can build a serious system

 

Do you guys run Aux fuse blocks with your sound systems?

 

Always... And I ALWAYS do "The Big 3"...


UPGRADING YOUR GROUND WIRES
\t\t\t\t Submitted by ImTheJoker4u2 /\t\t 04-24-09

\t\t

<table cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" width="100%"> <tbody><tr> <td class="content4" valign="top">\t\t\t So you've got your aftermarket amps, speakers, and head unit but it just doesn't sound as good as it did in the store. The bass is muddy and the more you crank it the worse it sounds. And to add to the frustration your headlights dance like you're at a 70's disco! Here's the problem: The factory power wiring in your vehicle isn't designed to handle much more wattage than it regularly uses.

The Solution? The Big Three Upgrade!



If You're Going To Up The Wattage In Your Ride:

Use the BIG Stuff Here, no less than 4 gauge (AWG) and bigger is better. These pictures show 8 AWG (which is barely big enough) and certainly at its limits, but I got 50' for $10 and 8 AWG is better than no AWG. Make sure you use braided wire, the more strands the better. Do not use residential wiring or solid conductor copper.

<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="100%"> <tbody><tr> <td class="content4"> 1. (+) Lug on Alt to (+) on Battery Terminal</td> <td align="center"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2" class="content4"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2" class="content4">I simply ran a wire from the output lug on the alternator to the positive lug on the battery. The higher quality and size of the added wire greatly improves the flow of electricity. Think of a wire as a garden hose: the bigger the hose, the more water can easily flow. The same applies to wire and electricity.


</td> </tr> <tr> <td>The proper Gauge Wire based on current demand and length of run:
</td> <td align="center"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2" align="center"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="content4"> The proper battery size based on total RMS wattage of system:
</td> <td align="center"></td> </tr> <tr> <td class="content4"> </td> <td align="center"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="content4"> The proper alternator size based on total RMS wattage of system:
</td> <td align="center"></td> </tr> <tr> <td class="content4"> </td> <td align="center"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="content4"> The proper fuse size based on power wire size:
</td> <td align="center"></td> </tr> <tr> <td class="content4"> </td> <td align="center"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="content4">2. (-) Lug on Battery to CLEAN Chassis Ground
</td> <td align="center"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="content4"> </td> <td align="center"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="content4">Here I ran the negative wire from the battery to a factory mounting point on the radiator support. I first cleaned the metal I was to attach my ground to. NEVER trust the threads to make a good contact! ALWAYS clean paint, rust, oils, etc. from your mounting points!


</td> <td align="center"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"> 3. CLEAN Engine Block to CLEAN Chassis Ground - Again: NEVER trust the threads to make a good contact! ALWAYS clean paint, rust, oils, etc. from your mounting points!
</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"> I used a bracket bolt that goes directly into the head. This is the one I didn't see the benefit of until after I did it. Then it dawned on me that the alternator is grounded to the block, so in order for the electricity to complete the loop a better engine ground had to be installed.
</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="content4">
I've done this with fantastic results. My headlights hardly dim at traffic lights, and not at all while driving. I've also upgraded to a top and side lug battery. None of my upgrades touch the factory stuff. My added power and ground straps are neatly hidden on the back of the battery while the top remains factory appearing. This also ensures the best contact because nothing is "added on" to the factory system.
</td> <td align="center"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2" class="content4"> It's also a good idea to fuse the wire from the Alt. to the battery. Most auto parts stores, Wal-Mart, Best Buy, etc. carry larger in-line fuses for this purpose. See the chart above to figure out the correct fuse for your application: just make sure you don't run a fuse bigger than the amperage of your alternator. Most Ford alternators are 130 amps or less.
</td> </tr> </tbody></table>

</td></tr></tbody></table>



http://www.lincolnsonline.com/tech/00259.html

 

Are you familiar with the Blue sea breakers and fuse blocks? Thanks for the info I'll have to look over it at a later time.

 

I am not, but really, any fuse block will work. Gold plated is best.

 

Instead of a capacitor, I would always recommend an alternator upgrade. A Stock alternator will put out 200 amps, after all of the car usage there is maybe 20,25 Amps left which is insufficient to power a system. Upgrade your alternator and those extra 100 amps will give you more power and cleaner power.

 

So I just typed out this long ass post explaining why you're wrong.. and it fucking got lost

So.. No you dont need a bigger alt because....

1: Unless you're running 5000W RMS+ your stock ~100amp alternator is fine (Most are between 65-130) BUT YOU NEED THE BIG 3 UPGRADE ABOVE!!!

2: The stock alternator is NOT 200amp. That is a HUGE SPECIALTY alternator.

3: Over 1500W and you should run a capacitor to ease the burden on the alternator.

4: Get a deep cycle battery (I recommend an Optima Yellow Top)

My 85amp alt supplied more than enough to a 2500W system with hardly and dip in the lights at idle with it pounding at max with nothing more than a 1 farad cap, an optima battery, and the big three upgrade.

 

Do you drive a dodge ram