Lets Build a Cab - Detailed Guide with Plans

Discussion in 'Do It Yourself' started by ice_cream_man, Mar 28, 2015.

  1. #1 ice_cream_man, Mar 28, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 28, 2015
    View attachment 154223
    View attachment 154222
     
    This is my first post.  I have gained a ton of knowledge and wanted to make my first post as useful and helpful as possible.  This cabinet will be used for my very first grow!
     
    After spending a lot of time looking at cabinet builds, I decided to incorporate other people's ideas into my own design.  I needed something that I could secure and that was relatively stealthy.  A tent was not going to meet these needs.  Although this cabinet might not look right in my bedroom, it fits right in with the other shop furniture in my workshop. 
     
    This is not a guide to make the cheapest cabinet. I could have built it a lot cheaper by repurposing an old cabinet, but I enjoy building things and it was as much about the process as it was about the finished product.  I also got the benefit of making it exactly the way I wanted it and the pride of knowing I built it every time I look at it.  If I ever get tired of its primary use, I can use it for shop/tool storage.
     
    I intended to write this guide before the build and took many photos along the way specifically to include in the guide.  I have also included SketchUp drawings and plans for each step with full measurements and detailed joinery.
     
    The intended audience for this guide includes people who may have limited tools and cabinet making experience.  Therefore, I purposely designed the cabinet to be built with minimal tools using very basic joinery that any beginner should be able to accomplish with satisfactory results.  I also included some very basic jigs that will assist the beginner in achieving better accuracy in some of the cutting and joinery tasks.
     
     
    THE DESIGN
     
    I did incorporate other people's design ideas and wanted to especially recognize Hempnation420 for his cabinet design involving the 2x1 frame as well as the floating floor.
     
    View attachment 154176
     
    The cabinet has separate flowering and veg/clone chamber.  I originally thought I would be doing soil but half way through the build decided on RDWC.  I am using the flower chamber as a reservoir chamber. Luckily, it barely fits an 18 gal Roughneck Tote without interrupting the air flow.  I did have to slightly trim the handles.  I will probably modify it again at a later date to add a separate veg/clone chamber above the reservoir chamber and reduce the storage space.
     
    I am not claiming to have built the perfect cabinet or that my specific techniques are the best for any particular task.  I am also not holding myself out to be an expert cabinet maker.  There are several errors in the cabinet that I am not happy with and had to correct some relatively significant mistakes along the way. 
     
    It was designed around my needs which are two plants in flower, 400W (true) LED light, a 4” exhaust fan (which I increased to 6" ducting with reducers), a separate chamber to clone and veg. 
     
    All ventilation holes (intake, total area of holes in floating floor, hole in center divider, light trap channel, and light trap exhaust) were designed to have twice the area of the cabinet fan's 4” exhaust.  There are plenty of tools online to calculate the area of a circle if you are not math types.
     
    Please feel free to suggest improvements and suggestions.  I am especially interested in other people's modifications.  I would love to see people post their builds.
     
    Without further ado, here we go…

     
  2. #2 ice_cream_man, Mar 28, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 28, 2015
    MATERIALS
     
    For this build, the goal was to make a quality cabinet using low cost materials.  The cabinet is primarily made out of ½” OSB and 2x1 pine.  All materials can be bought at Home Depot or Lowes.  The cabinet contains both a vegetative growth and flowering chamber as well as storage compartments.  I chose to make my flowering chamber 6 feet tall, so you should modify your materials based on your chosen dimensions.  I also added several optional elements based on my use and needs and for stealth/security issues.
     
    5 Sheets ½” OSB (4'x 8') *(see note)*
    14 - 2 x 1 boards (8 foot lengths)
    1 ½” wood screws
    Square – Roofing or Speed square is fine.
    Wood Glue – (due to the humid nature of the cabinet environment, I suggest an outdoor   waterproof glue such as Titebond III)
    ½ “ wood dowels
    Caulk
    Panty Hose
    Primer
    Paint
    Weather Stripping
    Catches and Magnets
     
    * You can have the home center cut the sheets to more manageable size on their panel saw in the lumber department.  I had them rip cut (cut the long way) 4 sheets to 2' x 8' lengths and one to 30' (inches) x 8'
     
     
    OPTIONAL MATERIALS
    2'x4' sheet Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF) (Optional for circular saw jig)
    Dowel Jig
    Locking hardware
    Elastomeric Roof Coating
    Glass Microspheres (more on these later)
     
    TOOL LIST
    Circular Saw
    Jigsaw (can be rented) and blades.  If cost is a big issue, you can use a small hand saw.
    Drill
    1/8” drill bit for pilot holes (especially if you use OSB to prevent splitting)
    3/8” paddle or forstner bit (Optional for locking hardware)
    Caulk gun
     
    Material Cost
     
    ½” OSB (4'x8') - 5@ 7.98…………..39.90
    2x1 - 14@ 0.98…………………….. 13.72
    Wood Screws (#8 3/4)……………... 4.65
    Wood Screws (#8 1 ¼”)…………….5.95
    Deck Screws (2 ½”)………………... 9.37
    Caulking - 2@ 2.28………………… 4.56
    Glue (Titebond III)………………….  7.97
    Primer (Kiltz outdoor latex primer)...20.98
    Paint (Behr Premium Plus)………… 25.97
    Spray Paint (flat black)……………....3.87
    Panty Hose…………………………... 3.99
    Hinges (3” hinges) - 4@ 3.27………13.08
    Door Catches - 4@ 0.98…………….3.92
    Magnet Catch - 2@ 1.79…………… 3.58
    Weather Strips (10') - 3@ 3.48…….. 10.44
     
    TOTAL………………………….....….. 171.95
     
    Optional Materials
     
    ¾” MDF (2'x4') (for circ saw jig)…... 11.98
    Locking Hardware - 3@ 6.57……… 19.71
    Door Handles - 2@ 1.78…………… 3.56
    Elastomeric Roof Coating………….. 22.98
    Glass Microspheres (1 lb.)...………..9.85
    Joint Compound (1 qt.)…………….. 3.47
    6” Duct Connector Splice Collar...….4.65
    PVC 2” 90 Degree Elbow………….. .2.37     
     
    TOTAL…………………………….. 78.57
     
    TOTAL BUILD COST……………250.52
     
     
    CIRCULAR SAW STRAIGHT LINE CUTTING JIG (Highly Recommended)
     
    Although I have the benefit of having a table saw, I anticipate most people will be limited to a circular saw.  Although it can be difficult to cut a perfect straight line with a circular saw by hand, a very simple and easy to build jig can ensure perfectly straight cuts exactly on your cut line.  It is also much safer and easier to use a circular saw than to cut large unwieldy pieces on a table saw.  To build this jig, I use MDF.  MDF is perfectly flat and has a very straight factory edge that can be used as the fence/guide. 
     
    View attachment 154203
    View attachment 154204
    View attachment 154201
    1. Cut a 4 foot@ long 1” strip from the factory edge for the FENCE.  You can use a piece of 1x2 as a guide for the circular saw.  It does not have to be perfectly straight.  The factory edge side of the cut will be the fence/guide for the jig. 
      \t \t
    2. Cut a 4 foot long 1 foot wide strip for the BASE from the same side from the strip cut in step one.  This can be cut by and or with a guide.  Don't worry about it being perfectly straight.
      \t \t
    3. Glue and Clamp the 1” strip FENCE onto the BASE three inches from the end making sure the factory edge faces the larger portion of the BASE.  It does not have to be on the base perfectly straight.
      \t \t
    4. Pre-drill pilot holes for the screws with 1/8” bit.  DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP. MDF is easy to split when driving screws and you don't want to ruin your jig at this point.
      \t \t
    5. Screw FENCE onto the BASE.  Make sure screws are HAND TIGHT.  Be very careful not to over tighten if using a drill.  It is very easy to strip out the screw threads with MDF. 
      \t \t
    6. Place the Jig onto some scraps wood or a saw horse so the circular saw does not cut into the floor or table under the BASE.
      \t \t
    7. Adjust the depth of cut of the circular saw so that only one tooth will protrude through the bottom of the jig during the cut.  This both increases safety (less blade protruding and also increases the quality of the cut).
      \t \t
    8. Using the circular saw, make a cut down the entire length of the BASE making sure the foot of the circular saw runs firmly against the FENCE during the length of the cut
     
    Now you will have a jig that will cut perfectly straight lines.  Just line up the edge of the jig onto the cut line, clamp it onto the work piece and cut.  SEE PHOTO.  MDF is very stable and as long as the jig does not get wet, it should last a very long time.  You can brush on some polyurethane finish if you like for some protection against moisture, but I don't worry about it.
    \nCUTLIST
    \n View attachment 154173
    \n            PART                          MEASUREMENT
    A         Bottom                        23 ½ x 47
    B         Top                              23 x 47
    C         Center Divider            23 x 75
    D         Sides (2)                      23 ½ x 76
    E          Right Door                  28 ½ x 74 ½
    F          Left Door                    17 x 74 ½
    G         Back Panel 1 *            30 x 75 ½
    H         Back Panel 2 *            17 x 75 ½
    I           V Chamber Floor        17 ½ x 23
    J          F Chamber Floor         Did not use
    K         Shelves (3)                  17 ½ x 23
    L          Light Trap Back          13 x 42 ¾
    M         Light Trap Sides (2)    2 ½ x 37 ¾
    N         Light Trap Top            2 ½ x 13
    \n* Not necessary to cut 2 pieces for the back panel.  I had Home Depot cut is so I could fit it in my vehicle.
     
  3. #3 ice_cream_man, Mar 28, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 28, 2015
    BOTTOM and TOP
     
    View attachment 154179
     
    View attachment 154168
    1. Building the base first will allow the glue to dry on it while you build the top minimizing down time.
      \t \t
    2. Using your handy dandy jig, cut the Bottom and Top Panels from OSB panel #1.  Note that the base is ½” wider than the top.  This is intentional and will give an overhang to support the back of the case.
      \t \t
    3. Cut the 1x2”s to length.  If you have the ability to clamp them together side by side, you can cut multiple pieces in one pass and ensure they will each be exactly the same length,  If not, that is fine, cut one and use it to mark the others to the same length and cut carefully.
      \t \t
    4. Screw together the frames for top and using the square to ensure the angle is at 90 degrees.  See orientation of butt joint and orientation of the boards in photo.  The long side of the 1x2” boards should face UP making the frame 1.5” high.  Glue is not necessary at this point.  Glue does not hold well on end grain and we will be screwing and gluing the frame to the OSB panels.
      \t \t
    5. Glue and clamp the frame to the panels.  Apply enough glue that when clamped a small bead is squeezed out but don't overdo it or you will have a mess to clean up later.
      \t \t
    6. Screw the frames onto the panels.  Do not screw down the corners or the screws will get in the way of the screws in the frame or the dowels later.  I strongly suggest drilling pilot holes for the screws.
      \t \t
    7. Mark and cut out the intake ventilation hole from the BOTTOM with the jigsaw.  Drill a hole near the one of the corners to provide a place for the jigsaw to start the cut.
      \t \t
    8. Allow to dry.
    View attachment 154184
    View attachment 154185
    View attachment 154186
    View attachment 154221
     
    BASE
     
    View attachment 154167
     
                The base was designed to be open in the back behind the vegetation chamber.  This creates a hidden intake under the back of the case.
     
    1.      Measure and cut 2x4s to length.  Leaving the back open for ventilation intake under the cabinet.
    \n2.      Assemble the base with screws.
    \n3.      attach the BASE to the bottom by screwing through the BOTTOM into the base.
    \n View attachment 154180
    View attachment 154181
     
  4. #4 ice_cream_man, Mar 28, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 28, 2015
    CASE FRAME and CENTER DIVIDER
     
     
    View attachment 154169
    View attachment 154175
     

     
    I did this assembly by myself which was a major pain in the ass.  I had to lay it down for assembly and when I would attach one frame piece, others would fall out.  I highly recommend a friend for this part.
     
    I used doweling joinery because that is what I figured would be the most accessible form of joinery for people without more advanced power tools.  Unfortunately, my doweling jig could not clamp on the corners of the bottom and top due to its design. 
     
    Instead, I drilled the holes on the long pieces by hand and used the center finder punches that came with the drill to mark the other holes.  This got “close enough for government work”, but even though it looked ok when I used the square, the case ended up being slightly out of square when all was said and done (about ½” over the 6' length).  This caused complications later, especially with the inset doors.
     
    A doweling jig that would work on the corners would be so much easier. This will ensure the dowels are lined up perfectly which will allow the frame to be straight.  The taller the cabinet, the more crucial it is that the frame is straight because length will magnify any error.  The jig also comes with the appropriate size drill bits with depth stop collars and center point markers.  If money is very tight then you can hand drill but go very slowly and carefully paying particular attention to drill location, drilling perfectly straight holes and stopping at the correct depth.
     
    1. Mark the locations on the bottom where the 2x1s will attach.  Use a scrap piece of 2x1 to mark the locations paying attention to the orientation of the 2x1 pieces.  Marking now will prevent correcting a time consuming (and possibly expensive) mistake later.  Adhere to the old adage, measure twice, cut once.
      \t \t
    2. Drill the doweling holes in both ends of the (8)1x2s.
      \t \t
    3. Drill the doweling holes on the four outside corners of the base frame.
      \t \t
    4. Use a scrap piece of OSB to locate the 2x1s in the center.  Since ½” OSB is less than ½” thick, using the actual material to locate the center channel for the divider will ensure a snug fit.  (See image).

      \t View attachment 154202
      \t \t
    5. Drill dowel holes for the four center 2x1s on the base.
      \t \t
    6. Drill dowel holes for top again using scrap OSB to ensure proper spacing for center divider.
      \t \t
    7. Dry fit to make sure everything lines up properly.

      View attachment 154197
      \t View attachment 154198
      \t View attachment 154199
      \t View attachment 154200
      \t\t
    8. Cut CENTER DIVIDER from OSB panel.
      \t \t
    9. Mark the cutouts from each corner.  Using a scrap piece of 2x1 speeds the marking up and ensures accuracy.
      \t \t
    10. Cut out the corners with a jig saw.  If you have never used a jig saw before, practice on some scrap to get a feel for the tool.
      \t \t
    11. Mark and cut out the ventilation hole in the center divider using the jigsaw.  (I used my router and trammel jig to cut a circle, but a square cutout with the jigsaw is fine.  Just make sure it will fit within the light traps dimensions.

      \t \t
    12. Disassemble and glue 2x1s to bottom ensuring they are as square as possible.
      \t \t
    13. Slide the Center DIVIDER between the 2x1s
      \t \t
    14. Attach and Glue top to frame.
      \t \t
    15. Adjust to make sure frame is as square as possible and allow drying thoroughly.
      \t \t
    16. Screw frame to center divider.  If there is a small gap, don't worry about it.  We can seal it with caulk later.  Since you will be screwing through the long portion of the 2x1s, pre-drilled pilot holes are strongly recommended to keep the screws on track.  I used deck screws for this task.
    View attachment 154193
    \nCASE SIDES
    \n View attachment 154178
    1. Cut out SIDES from the OSB panel.
      \t \t
    2. Glue and screw Sides. Make sure the sides are flush with the front of the frame and there is a ½” overhang in the back.  (I screwed that up and had to disassemble the sides.  Luckily the glue was not fully cured).  It may be easier to CAREFULLY lay the case down to attach the sides.  Be careful and ensure the frame remains square before attaching the sides.
      \t \t
    3. With the sides attached, the cabinet will have stability and remain square.
    View attachment 154218
    View attachment 154219
     
  5. #5 ice_cream_man, Mar 28, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 28, 2015
    FLOATING FLOOR
    \n View attachment 154171
    1. Cut floor supports from the 2x1s
      \t \t
    2. Glue the floor supports on both sides of the bottom of the CENTER DIVIDER.
      \t \t
    3. Cut out the FLOOR PANELS from the OSB sheets.
      \t \t
    4. Mark the cutouts on the floor panels using a piece of 2x1 scrap.
      \t \t
    5. Cut out the corners with a jigsaw and test for fit.
      \t \t
    6. Cut out the ventilation holes using the jigsaw.  I used a Dremel and trammel.  However, square holes with a jigsaw are fine if you don't want to bother with circles.
      \t \t
    7. The floor is not screwed or glued down.  It simply rests on the floor supports.
    View attachment 154196
    \nFACE FRAME / DOOR FRAME
     
    View attachment 154172
     
    Tldr version.  Don't do what I did.  Don't follow the SketchUp plans.  Just build doors to same dimension as case and face mount to case.  Lightproof with weatherproof stripping.
     
    Long Version
     
    I violated my rule about making the design very simple here.  I wanted my doors flush in a frame for both aesthetics and light proofing.  This caused more heartache than building the entire rest of the cabinet combined. 
     
    I HIGHLY recommend not mounting inset doors unless you are up for the task.  It is far easier and cheaper to just build the doors and face mount them onto the case.  You will have exposed edges, but if you are painting the case it is no big deal.
     
    However, if you really want inset doors, I suggest splurging on a quality sheet of 3/4“oak ply for the doors (about $50 at home depot).  The ¾” ply doors will be dimensionally stable (eliminating the need to attach a support frame) and the thickness of the ply is almost the same as the nominal thickness of the 1x2s you can use to make the face frame.  The ply is a tiny bit thinner, but it is close enough (it's not really ¾” thick just like the 1x2s are really ¾”x1 ½”).  If I just spent the extra $50 on the ply, I would have saved myself many, many hours of heartache and frustration.
     
    Note, this will still require clamping the face frame to the case during the glue up unless you don't mind screws showing on the front of the cabinet.  You can lay case down, put an OSB sheet on top and put weights on it. 
     
    My way i.e. The Wrong Way
     
    I put a support frame around the doors to give them stability and thickness and it quickly got complicated to match the thickness of the door with the thickness needed for the face frame.  I put a frame on the case then pieces on the frame to build it up for the door to fit in.  I used my planer to get the right thickness of the door frames which I know most people probably don't have.  It also requires 2' clamps to glue the frame unless you want ugly screw holes in the face frame.  Finally, the doors needed to be slightly smaller than the opening in order to function properly.  This became very difficult since the case was not perfectly square. 
     
    View attachment 154195
     
    DOORS
     
    View attachment 154170
    1. Cut the Doors from the OSB panels and test fit. 
      \t \t
    2. (Optional) If making inset doors, cut them very slightly undersized.  I used 2 stack of pennies taped around the frame as shims.  Once cut you cannot add so it is better to cut the door slightly oversized and sneak up on the opening by making multiple small shaving cuts.  Take your time here.
      \t \t
    3. Remove doors and cut and attach supporting 1x2 frame to door panel.  (Make sure it is on the side of the door facing inside when you fit it)  This gives rigidity to the flexible ½” OSB and provides a better anchor for attachment of the hinges.
     
    View attachment 154194
     
  6. #6 ice_cream_man, Mar 28, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 28, 2015
    BACK
     
    View attachment 154166
     
    Another screw up here.  I had the hardware store make the cuts on the sheet so that the butt joint between the two back panels would be over the center divider.  I did not have the store cut it properly (had it cut in half).  It caused the seam between the two sheets to be exposed in the flower chamber.
     
    I was too cheap to buy another sheet of OSB, so I used sheetrock tape and joint compound to fill the seam.  I know I did not knife it far enough out, but I did not care for it to be perfect.  After all, it is inside a cabinet, not on my living room wall. 
     
    1. Cut the back panels from the OSB.  I had to attach it in two panels because my vehicle cannot carry full uncut 8' x 4' sheets. 
      \t \t
    2. Glue and screw the back panel to the cabinet.
     
    SHELVES
    \n View attachment 154177
    \nI used 2x1s for shelf supports for the shelf that is the top of the vegetation chamber to ensure a full seal and added support.  For the other shelves, I used shelf support pegs because I wanted adjustability in case I decide later to change the spacing.
    \n
    1. Cut out the shelves from the OSB panels
      \t \t
    2. Mark and cut out the corners of the shelves with the jigsaw.
      \t \t
    3. Cut out a length of scrap to the measured height of the bottom of the shelf supports to use a guide to attach the shelf supports ensuring they are even on both sides.
      \t \t
    4. Glue and screw the shelf supports.
      \t \t
    5. Attach the shelf to the supports.
      \t \t
    6. Create a guide for the shelf pins.  Using another piece of scrap, drill holes corresponding to the distance of the bottom of the other shelves. I drilled the first holes at 12” then holes each additional 6”.  SEE PHOTOS
      \t \t
    7. Use the guide to drill the shelf pins on each corner.
      \t \t
    8. Fit the shelves.
    View attachment 154216
    View attachment 154217
     
    LIGHT TRAP
     
    View attachment 154174
    1. Cut OSB pieces to size.
      \t \t
    2. Drill pilot holes, screw and glue light trap together.
    View attachment 154209
    View attachment 154208
    View attachment 154207
    View attachment 154206
    View attachment 154205
     
  7. #7 ice_cream_man, Mar 28, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 28, 2015
    LIGHT PROOFING AND PRIMING
     
    1.      Apply white waterproof caulk along all corners in the inside of the cabinet and light trap to seal any gaps.  Caulk designed for bathrooms and sinks will withstand the moisture and high humidity of the inside of the cabinet.
    \n2.      Apply a coat of primer to the entire cabinet, and light trap inside and out.  This will protect the OSB from the moisture and high humidity of the cabinet.  I used latex based exterior primer.  *** Some people recommend oil primer because water based primer could delaminate the OSB.  It worked fine for me and I prefer not to breathe the nasty solvents in oil base primer/paint.
     
    3.      When dry, line up the light trap in the flower chamber and trace around it.  Remove light trap and use outline to drill holes through center divider where the light trap walls will be.  The holes will allow you to drill from the other side to attach the light trap without missing.
     
    4.      Tape off and paint the portion of the center divider that will be inside the light trap, the inside of the light trap, the area between the floating floor and the base surrounding the intake under the cabinet flat black to assist in light proofing. 
     
    View attachment 154188
    View attachment 154189
    View attachment 154212
    View attachment 154213
    View attachment 154214
    View attachment 154215
    View attachment 154210
    View attachment 154211
    View attachment 154183
     
    FINISHING
     
    1.      Either paint the inside of the cabinet with flat white paint or line with your preferred reflective material. 
     
    *** I used elastomeric roof coating (EMC) mixed with glass microspheres.  Microspheres are super fine glass spheres far finer than flour.  The glass microspheres mixed with EMC has soundproofing properties which is primarily why I chose it but also makes it lightweight and go further.  RC aircraft modelers use it with epoxy to make it more lightweight.  I suggest mixing outside and wearing a mask or respirator.
    \n*** Also, I wanted low maintenance and am using LED which I understand to be more focused relying less on reflection than HPS.    Car enthusiasts use it as a cheaper alternative to premixed soundproof paint. 
     
    2.      Paint or line inside of doors with reflective material.
    \n3.      (Optional) Drill hole for locking hardware.  Due to my design I needed to glue a small block to the inside of the door to space the latch.
     
    4.      (Optional) Attach lock hardware.
     
    5.      Attach doors using hinges.
    \n6.      Paint Case
     
    7.      (Optional) Attach door handles.
     
    8.      Attach weather proof strips
     
    9.      Attach catch and magnet hardware.
     
    10.  Cover the intake holes cut in BOTTOM under the floating floor with panty hose material to act as a filter and prevent pests from entering the cabinet.
     
    11.  Cut ventilation hole for exhaust and inserted 6" connector. 
    \n12.  Cut a hole for power strip's electrical cord and inserted a 90 degree pvc elbow that I painted black.
    \n13.  Install lights, fans, filter, ducting, etc.
     
    View attachment 154222
    View attachment 154223
     
    GROW FAT FLOWERS AND ENJOY THEM
     
  8. Ice- only thing i can suggest is possibly go with a 6'' instead of 4''..4'' is good in winter with the ambients but come summer heat you'll wish you had the 6''..it'll make a big difference even with led..good job!
     
  9. #10 ice_cream_man, Mar 28, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 28, 2015
    Thanks for the suggestion Dr. Mengle.  I did in fact go with the 6" ducting and the exhaust port is a 6" connector.  The 4" i referred to is the outlet of the fan which is the bottleneck for air flow.  I used reducers to get the ducting to 6".
     
  10. This thing is tight. Love the end result! Hopefully you post some pictures of the ladies when they get going! If you decide to do a journal let me know i would love to see this bad boy fully loaded.
     
  11. Hemp,
    Thanks man!  Your guide was the one that inspired me to build this.  I do plan on doing a journal, but I am a little nervous because the only thing I have ever grown in my life is a few tomato plants.  
     
    I am still outfitting it.  I had 4" non-insulated ducting with a few 90 degree bends and my inline fan was LOUD.  I don't particularly need it to be 100% stealth, but I could hear it upstairs!  
     
    I decided to build a box out of 3/4" MDF for the inline fan insulate it with soundproof insulation and place it on top of the cab.  I also changed the ducting to 6" insulated stuff and streamlined the air flow.  I had to move the exhaust port by patching the 4" hole and re-cut the 6" one that is in the photo to make it work.  Hopefully, these modifications will help lower the noise.  
     
    I am also working on my RDWC system now based on Yoda's design.  I was planning on scrog with two plants in 5 gal buckets and an 18g res in the veg chamber, but I might just rush the first grow through just topping to actually have the experience of harvesting something and getting a little experience under my belt.
     
  12. #13 hemptation420, Mar 29, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 29, 2015
     
    A box is a good way to kill some sound if that dosn't work for you u can make a tubed silencer they work for me super well. I have people in my basement in the room next to my grow room and no one even has an idea whats in there. Insulated ducting dose help sound for sure it also helps stop heat from "leaking" back into the room.
     
    As for rushing a grow threw i would advise against it. In my experiences it's trial and error, you can plan all you want AS soon as you start your plans gonna goto shit because you need to move something so very slightly or some crap like that. Its best to pick your plan and iron it out as you go along, so when your second stab at it comes around all the initial problems are worked out and its smooth sailing. DWC and hydro is a great way to go, i stay away from it personally but it can improve your yields and grow times for sure. As for SCRoG, its by far my favorite way to grow big massive plants make me happy!
     
  13. I just finished setting up the cabinet.  I added a MFD box for the inline fan on top of the cabinet and surrounded it with soundproof insulation.  I modified all ventilation to 6" insulated ducting.  It is very quiet and perfectly light proof.  I can hardly hear it when the house is perfectly quiet and can definitely not hear it when the AC, heat, fan, dehumidifier, etc is running in the house.
     
    I am sprouting my first babies now.  Supposedly northern lights / purple haze cross.  I can't verify the source, but the price was right - free.  
     
    View attachment 154648
    View attachment 154647
     
    ICM
     
  14. Awwesome build
     
  15. Looks awesome! I'm planning to build my grow closet soon and your design is pretty close to what I have in mind. Keep it up.
     

Share This Page