Cheeseds Cheese Tent

I think yours pH is fucked up or you are overwatering them. Had the same problem cause I was using reverse osmosis water pH about 5.5. After putting them to new pots with good pH and not overwatered I've seen the visible improvement after a day.

 

Ph doesn't work like that in organic. The soil buffers it.
I dont even know what my ph is.

 

Its too dry.

 

I am also running organic grow with biobizz and my plants showing me that pH is significant.

 

 
Turn the 600 w light on! you should have done that from the start. Subbed to this thread cause I lovbes me some cheese!

 

or at least that's what you believe you see.

 

If you're not using mycorrhizae(mycos), that's one thing that will SIGNIFICANTLY limit the growth of you plants. The expand the surface area of your roots and exponential amount, which means more nutrients for your plants.
But then again, being that your using chemicals, I'm not even sure that the ionic salts from your fertilizers would allow for them to thrive.
 
But I'm confused because you've slightly amended your soil mix as an organic mix, which wouldn't require bloom or grow nutrients.
Also, you're soil needed to cycle for at least 4-6 weeks before you planted in it, but I only counted like 2-3 weeks or so between your soil post and your seedling post, that's cutting it really close. You have to give the "life" within the soil, time to process the alfalfa and the kelp you added, making them both available to your plants. 
 
Long story short, if you're growing organic, you don't need bloom and veg "nutes". But a poor soil to start out with, is what I'm assuming has set you back. Growing organic, your soil is the most important aspect of the garden..You have to treat it like the plants! What happens above the soil is a good correlation as to what happening below.
 
If you want this grow to live, go get you some good compost or vermicompost...Top dress your plants with the mixture, and pay attention to them! Don't water too much, and don't use the "nutes" you have, bcuz you'll be killing off the life you need to do the organic work, every time you use them. It's either "nutes" or "organic" tho. The two don't go together.
 
Hope they pull thru for you. Take care man
 
**Passes you this Chemdawg joint 

 

 
This is kinda the trick question bro....It say's it "organic" and looking at the contents on the label you might buy into that..The True organic amendments that you seek will come in a bag, not a bottle.
 
When you grow organic, totally organic, you won't need ANY bottles, EVER....You'll never have to follow a "feeding" schedule or something like that to take care of your plants, because your plants will communicate with the soil by releasing exudates, or sugars that the plants create to feed the life in the soil, or attract certain population of "life" in the soil.
 
Organic plants literally feed themselves...All you need to do is not let your medium dry out too much, or stay wet too much..
 
If you wanna grow organic, go ahead and throw those bottle out...Or give them to someone...
They gave me some roots organics bottle stuff for free that last time I went to the store...It's still sitting in the free bag they gave me too...
 
I would start over and start with a better soil...Otherwise you're plants will live a half assed life for their existence.
You haven't wasted the time at this point since their still babies, but if you keep at it, you'll see what I mean...
 
You're growing medium is no longer inert(free of nutrients), so there's no telling how the alfalfa and kelp will work with the bottled stuff..
 
Last thing, I'm by NO MEANS saying that you need to go organic bro, but if you do, you won't regret it.
I can't buy anywhere as good as I can grow it...Organic herb is on another level compared to the chemical stuff.
 
If you're using chemicals to grow for yourself and plan on flushing and all that good stuff, to end up with the cleanest bud as possible, i'm sure you can grow something comparable, but the stuff that you buy off the streets most likely didn't get the care that you would give yours. You can see it when most of the weed you buy burns to black ashes...Organic weed or well flushed non-organic weed will burn with a light grey ash, it'll stay lit, and it'll taste EXACTLY like it smells for the most part..So IMO your at a crossroads! 
 
**Passing you this Chemdawg 

 

 
Lol, you didn't get conned, but you got conned.
 
I've been learning the craft going on 4 years now, so I know what's what for the most part you know(in regards to the basics).
But with that said, I talked to the guy at the hydro store the last time I went(of course not about the obvious), but just to see what he knew, and the shit he said let me know that he didn't know as much as he should, to be in the position he was...But hey, work is work when it's part time right lol.
I've recently moved tho, and the guy at the last store I'd go to was incredible with what he knew, and he was legit, because he wasn't trying to sell me shit in a bottle...He did manage to sell me a copy of Teaming With Nutrients by Jeff Lowenfels tho, which is a book I'd recommend to anyone serious about this..It's pretty much the breakdown of how the nutrients work with, and within the plants in terms of organics. I'm sure you can even find the PDF for free by now..
 
Unless you're perlite makes up more that 50% of your soil, I wouldn't worry that you added to much..Even then, you probably didn't.
When then plants are as small as yours are, they're only need water like once every 7/10 days...Then you have then in bigger pots, so you might be able to go a couple weeks without watering..
 
You can brew up tea to give em, which certainly won't hurt..But you need some more humus in your soil...Topdress with some compost and castings, then give em the tea, then mulch the plants with something so that you can help that layer of topdressing from drying out.
Your roots will grow up into that and eat it all up. To keep your soil wet, don't water it more often, just mist the topsoil once or twice a day.
That'll also help with low humidity. Don't water more often tho...Water less often than you should if anything...
As you get back into the game, you'll get your feel for that sweet spot.
 
Seedling stems will turn a nasty dark purple when they're not happy...When they're waterlogged, dried out, given too much "nutes" or whatever..Them stems will look dark purple when they're not feeling your efforts haha
 
And you're welcome bro. 
 
**Passes that J

 

Jumps up and down screaming "turn the damn 600w light on!". And yeah, you got burned, that's not organic at all.

 

Will do bro. For all things compost tea ->Microbeorganics.com
 
This guy is the G.O.A.T in terms of compost tea, and he's got his own forum too, that he's very active on. 
I'll PM you the info to his forum.
 
Bless

 

This is what I use when I grow in soil. Plants love it.
 

Actively Aerated Microbial Rich Tea Solution​

Ingredients

1. 1lb worm castings or vermiblend (castings, compost or humus).
2. 2 TBS molasses.
3. 1 TBS soy-ful, A liquid plant nutrient produced from fermented soybeans to be used as part of a complete fertilization program through all stages of plant development.
4. 1 TBS humic acid.
5. 1 TBS fish hydrolysate (optional).
6. 2 TBS organic soluble seaweed.
7. 2 TBS earth juice catalyst.
8. 2 TBS primal harvest solution guano.
9. 2 TBS mycorrhizae (add in at the end of the brewing cycle, long term aereation will destroy the mycorrihizal hyphae).
10. 5 gallons of lukewarm reverse osmosis water or distilled water (tap water contains chlorine and chloramines, these will kill the microbial populations you are trying to breed).

Pre Activate Fungi In Microbial Media (compost, castings, humus)

To pre activate add 6 TBS of powdered baby oatmeal to dry media. Thoroughly mix, add just enough filtered water to achieve a drop or two of discharge when squeezing a handful. Let set for three days in darkness, preferably at 80 degrees F. A heat mat with a thermostat placed at the bottom of the container works well to achieve this. If visible fungal mycelia have formed, (a dense fluffy white blanket), continue with the brewing process. This process will increase the beneficial fungal populations in the tea.

Brewing and Application rates

The aeration should be apparent and diffuse over the entire surface area of the container, the more air the better.

1. Add microbial foods (ingredients 2 thru 8 and 10).
2. Mix well and add airstones in bottom of bucket.
3. Add ingredient number 1, worm castings, compost or humus, place in stocking if tea will be used for foliar feeding.
4. Begin brewing cycle.
5. Let cycle run for 24 to 36 hours.
6. Dilute one cup per gallon of filtered water to get the most out of your tea, or use straight as it has no capability of burning.
7. Water or foliar feed within 4 hours of completion for highest microbial activity, or store for up to 7 days in the refrigerator.
8. Important – Tea should smell earthy fresh and like good compost or healthy soil, if smell is foul like spoiled milk or vomit the tea has gone anaerobic and should not be used.
 

 

The majority of all that is optional bro.
Nowadays the better growers are composting with worms and leaving it at that.
If you had some good compost, you could use just that and a lil molasses.

U don't need most of that..prob just a topdress.

 

You cannot leave stuff out or change the amounts in the recipe unless you know your plant and what you are doing. I'd use it just like it is or you are going to have issues. If you really want to grow organic I'd mix up a batch of TGA Supersoil and then supplement the plants toward the end with the teas as needed. TGA supersoil will grow the shit out of some weed. link to fish hydrosylate http://www.arbico-organics.com/product/2639/organic-insecticides-farms?kpid=1315000&gclid=CIqs3_XvxsQCFdKGfgodt1gACw
 
I grew this in TGA Supersoil I made...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nm-giGFqPSA