Looks like it's lacking a nutrient to me. Can you take a photo of the entire plant? Is it in soil or hydro? What nutrients are you using? And at what % of the full dosage are you giving them?
Here are some pics.. thanks for the help BTW! Soil grow Ph 6.5 in Ph 6.3 out Temps 78 is the HI Fox Farms Tiger Bloom nutes 100% dose every other watering 600 watt hps 13" away
Possibly an iron deficiency. Look into a compost tea with earthworm castings, alfalfa and kelp. This will give you all the micro nutrients that is missing in your soil.
Just googled that and looks like it thanks for the help! So my next question if i get this fixed here is the plant going to produce a decent harvest still or is it going to be junk..
I think you'll be alright as far as yield goes. Don't think this deficiency will take much if anything from the yield.
Tiger bloom is no good if you are getting deficiencies of this degree on 100% dosage, even if you are only feeding on every other watering. Are you using ro water? Or any other filtered or distilled water? If you are using tap water is it hard or soft? Do you know the EC or ppm if it?
Interveinal chlorosis of the new upper foliage points to Iron deficiency. I have lab confirmed many cases of Fe deficiency in many species of plants and it is 100% every time due to high pH. Work on dropping the substrate pH below 6.5 and you will be ok. Switching to ammonical nitrogen based formula will help a little bit and so will acid injection into your water if that fails you would need an Iron drench to drop the soil pH. Good luck
He said he puts in 6.5 and 6.3 comes out. That indicates that his PH is below 6.3, probably around 6 or just under, so I can't see the PH being at fault
I have seen Grand Daddy Purp show Fe deficiency at 6.5 while Blue Dream showed no symptoms at 6.5. If you are using micro nutrients and you have an Fe deficiency it is due to high pH, no if ands or buts.
1. Test the substrate pH to determine if it is too high (> pH 6.5). 2. Neutralize the alkalinity of the irrigation water with acid injection. 3. Switch from a basic fertilizer (nitrate) to an acidic fertilizer (ammonical nitrogen). 4. Apply iron sulfate (FeSO4.7H2O) as a substrate drench. Use 1 to 3 pounds per 100 gallons of water. Wash off the foliage after application. 5. Recheck the pH values to make sure they are within the acceptable range. NC State University. http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/floriculture
I'm not disputing that. I'm just saying that you advised him to keep it below 6.5 to correct his problem but he has already said he is already doing that The idea that his problem is related to iron isn't necessarily true anyway. In fact your idea that keeping the PH below 6.5 suggests its not iron related anyway because he has already said his PH is in an acceptable range
We use $300 Hanna EC/pH meters and they are even off by .3 sometimes compared to our lab samples. Also I highly highly doubt he is doing a proper pour through test. Just feeding your plant and checking the run off at the bottom will not be even slightly accurate as to what the actual media's pH is. He can do whatever he would like to do though. Like I said, Good luck.
Also that is clearly a Iron deficiency, you can tell because the veins are still green. This is also a symptom of Magnesium deficiency but that happens on the lower older foliage first.
Nah, looks similar but Mg starts on the bottom of plant on the old growth. Iron starts on the new upper leaves. Mg is a mobile element that means it can move through the phloem of the plant to where it is needed. As the plant grows and needs more Mg it is then able to pull the Mg from the bottom of the foliage and up to the new growth. That's why you will always see Mg def start on the bottom. Fe is immobile and cannot osmilocate throughout the plant