Organic grow purple og #18

Discussion in 'Growing Organic Marijuana' started by dizzyDnutz, Jan 23, 2015.

  1. Hello all. Just started an organic grow. The seed I'm going with is cali connection's purple og #18. Has anyone grown this particular strain and if so I could use some more info on it as I don't know much. It has cracked surface about 2 weeks ago and is since been transplanted into my organic mix into a 7 gallon smart pot. T5 fixture for veg and 400w hps for flower. mix is basically one followed on the site used from easy organic soil mix for beginners thread. I have tomato tone ,bio-starter tone ,alfalpha, neem,crab meal,rock dust,perlite,etc. All in the right amounts. I used this same soil before for a green crack plant that everyone said was the best one I have done. I removed main root ball and kept moist until I transplanted this purple og #18 into the same container I did the GC in. I threw some ewc on top of it and will let her just get the regular water soak now all thru flower. As I said I used this same mix before so I know it's good. Now I have ?'s.this is my first journal as well. So I will document hopefully as much and when I can. But now that I have it in this purple og #18 I see bugs or things on my plant leaves and looks like leaf damage but am uncertain as I'm pretty new to growing and don't grow much at a time since I use it mostly medically. Are these bugs good or bad that I see. I read that when u see bugs or whatever you call them that sometimes these are beneficial. My new growth on plant seems to look ok. Can anyone help. I will post pics.
     
  2. New growth looks good to me but I'm not expert. Thanks anyone who will sub in for the ride and for all the tips and help I will and can get!
     

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  3. #3 waktoo, Jan 23, 2015
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2015
  4. Yes waktoo they look similar they crawl on the leaf structure and am sure causing damage along the way.
    What are some good methods to rid them?
     
  5. #5 waktoo, Jan 23, 2015
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2015
    For future reference, take a look into integrated pest management (IPM). "Essential oils" are the ticket, neem being one of the top dogs in the race. The grand majority of "organic" pesticides and herbicides are derived from plant oils. And then watered down heavily...

    Take some time to determine a positive identification on the critters. If they are indeed thrips, Spinosad (a microbiological insecticide) will be the quick go-to. Apply liberally to the top AND bottom of leaves, every three to four days, three or four times. This is important in order to break the cycle of new bugs emerging from un-hatched eggs. I strongly suggest doing this right before lights off.

    Do you have any recent plants/cuttings brought in from an outside source? Do you garden outdoors?

    I can't seem to figure why you might have thrips in your garden. They don't live in soil.

    The ONE time that I had them, they came in on a cut...
     
  6. I have always used seed from start to finish and make my own cuttings. I do not grow outdoors as that's not safe in my state.. I have some neem oil on hand but have never used this stuff before. I heard it can strip the microbios from the soil leaving you to add mycos back to your formula? And everything I've used stays indoors. I have taken some of this soil to use outside that I made but never put back into house. What is outside stays outside.

    I'm not sure how I got them either. :/ now it worries me if I'm getting stuff from outside in. And I have no traces from outside leading inside. (Holes,air leaks,windows,etc. I grow in closets. Or grow tents. Very confused here.
     
  7. The ONLY THING I could think of is when I bought my compost. It was bought locally from a garden store who stored it outside.. this I'm guessing could have been the guilty culprit?
     
  8. I do not have a microscope but my phone gets close just not very close. Here's a few more
     

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  9. #9 waktoo, Jan 24, 2015
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2015
    I'm willing to say that those are thrips, regardless of how they came to be there.  The leaf damage looks indicative of their handywork.  The second pic' really looks like them...
     
    Get on it with the Spinosad.  Those things can become a serious problem real fast...
     
  10.  
    I'm with waktoo on this one. I've had thrips more than I care to admit (when I used ocean forest soil I'd get thrips with every bag) and using Spinosad always gets rid of those little jerks...
     
  11. I don't have spinosad. But I have neem oil. Will it work the same?
     
  12. Is there a certain kind or brand to get and is it located anywhere? I.e. walmart, target. Or would it be only like at garden shops?
     
  13. I'm not sure. Check the directions or contact the manufacturer.

    It's neem, so it's not going to hurt anything to try.

    Just remember to follow the directions in post #5, especially the part about applying just before lights out. Treating your plants with any essential oil and having direct intense light shine on them can be detrimental to plant health.
     
  14. I will just go get some spinosad lol fuck it. As far as the light part. I thought spinosad was the only one you can spray with lights on? Not saying I'm going to do so. But I've seen multiple posts saying it's ok in light as well
     
  15. Don't know what to say about that.  I don't spray anything on my plants when the lights are on.  Just a habit I got into when I learned that essential oils not only have the potential to burn plant leaves, but the active ingredients in them break down faster and are less effective when exposed to light and oxygen.
     
  16.  
    I've used neem successfully against thrips! Neem seems to work on most pests. If you do use neem I'd recommend that you also spray the top of your soil with it as well.  I spray weekly, up until about 3 weeks into flower, with neem, silica, aloe vera and kelp. Haven't had a problem with pests for a long time..SW
     
  17. And also, it's a good idea to always spray with the lights off to play it safe.
     
  18. #18 waktoo, Jan 24, 2015
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2015
     
    Sweet!  I was hoping someone with some real life experience with neem and thrips would chime in...
     
    How MUCH neem oil are you applying to the top of the soil?  I've read that neem oil (or more appropriately, azadirachtin) is detrimental to soil microbial life.
     
  19. I've used Neem oil at the standard foliar application rate to spray the top layer of my soil many many times. What I've noticed is it tends to dry and create a hard 1/2"-1" layer on the top soil but never affected the soil below that. I also never noticed a single issue with plant growth doing this either. I can't prove it didn't do anything to the micro life though, but as long as the plant growth wasn't affected I didn't give it a second thought.

    It's interesting because if Neem is detrimental to micro life as you've read, why would Neem meal be such an amazing soil amendment???

    Bham


    Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
     
  20.  
    This is indeed something that has perplexed me since the first time I learned about neem and all of the wonderful things that it can do.  It somehow is effective against pathogenic microbial attack, and yet supposedly doesn't have any effect on beneficial soil microbes.  I wonder if the SAR effects the neem seems to have operate somehow to signal the plant to create microbe specific exudates that are poison only to the pathogen in question?  :confused_2:  :bongin:
     
    To be clear, the abstract that I read was dealing with pure azadirachtin at various concentration levels.  Comparatively, I wonder what the concentration levels of az' are in the typical foliar feed using neem oil?  Or in neem meal, which has had the majority of the oil removed?
     
    It's got to be much, much lower.  And that's kind of the reason why I asked someone who has actually sprayed the stuff on their soil.  I've ALWAYS been advised not to...
     
    \tAbstractThe effect of 10% azadirachtin granules (alcoholic extract of neem seed kernel mixed with China clay) was studied on the population of bacteria, actinomycetes, fungi, Azotobacter and nitrifying bacteria; soil dehydrogenase, phosphatase and respiratory activities on 0, 15th, 30th, 60th and 90th days after application in sandy loam soil collected from the fields. It was observed that baring the Azotobacter sp., azadirachtin at all the doses exerted a suppressive effect on the rest of the microbial communities and enzyme activities in the initial 15 day period. The population of bacteria, actinomycetes besides phosphatase and respiratory activities recovered after 60th day and subsequently increased significantly. The fungi and nitrifiers were most sensitive groups as their numbers were reduced significantly throughout the studies. The two times and five times recommended dose of azadirachtin had very high biocidal effects on the soil microorganisms and its activities. However, analysis of the data by the Shannon Weaver index showed that azadirachtin reduces both the form and functional microbial diversity at all doses.
     
    http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0960852406005323
     

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