Yep. Doesn't leak much. It doesn't burn any and no mayo evidence when opening the oil cap and having a look inside with light. It's actually really clean. I'm also a car guy. Which is pretty evident as I put most of money on it and looking like a homeless person is the result. Also my hands are always black and ALWAYS attempt a fix or a mod myself before seeking help. My motto is if someone put it together with their hands, I can take it appart with my own ______________________________ this is my signature. Right here.
Alright. Electrical isnt really my strong suit. My daily driver this summer was a 97 chevy blazer. I lovet the 4.3l vortec so much I bought an s10 this fall so i could put turo on it and recently put it into a telephone pole and dont have cash to fix it. I went to fire up the blazer a week ago and it was dead. Hooked it up to a battery charger, let it trickle back up and started it. Drove it to a friends and back and went to sleep. Woke up and it was dead. Charged it up, bought a new battery. I had problems with that battery too. Its a drain. Ive allready checked all the lights and all the easy stuff allready and figured out it has somthing to do with the rear end. Ever since i bought the truck nothing back there worked. I have the interior panel out in the tailgate and ou have to pop the glass manually by working the arm inside, then you can put the tailgate down. Ive done research but cant fund anything on it.
Its a little pricey, but worth every penny when you're trying to do auto electrical... http://www.amazon.com/Power-Probe-219FT-Circuit-Tester/dp/B000KPU8JI/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1424733535&sr=8-13&keywords=power+probe And one of these.. http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-26000900-Pro3000-Generator/dp/B000FTADX0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1424733723&sr=8-1&keywords=fluke+wire+tracer And of course... Forgot to mention, if it has a tow hitch and the accompanying wires, those are often the source of electrical gremlins.
On occasion my van gets a weird vibration from the back passenger side and feels like Its pulling to the right and then it goes away and drives just fine. Sometimes when im in stop and go traffic it hesitates a bit when accelerating from a light. The brakes also squeak when Im slowing down and I can figure out why. It stops fine and the pads dont look to worn out. Its a 96 Astro van if that helps. I love it to death because its super comfy gets about 20mpg handles great and the 4.3 vortec in it hauls ass Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
83 El Camino Expired tags, doesnt pass smog cuz i need a new cat converter Turn signals dont work Wipers dont work Reverse is going out Overheats Shaved door poppers dont work Fml
sounds like what you really need is a ls/t56 swap. Then you just need to run new wires to the signals and pop in new relays while your at it(should be easy while engines out and ur able to sit in the engine bay on a milkcrate). weld the doors shut and hop in through the windows duke's style and voila, all problems solved.
Glad I ran into this thread. I own a 2003 Mitsubishi Galant. I need to replace the lower control arms and rubber bushings. I also want to lower it to close the wheel gap to about a two finger space. 1.) should I upgrade lower control arms or stock? 2.) how much should I lower car? 3.) what's springs/shocks should I use? I have 18's on it. 8.5 width I believe. 45mm offset.
Sounds like an axle bearing might be headed south...... Some brake compounds just squeak... Change the pads. Ive always said "If you're going to replace it - UPGRADE!!" Lowering is to taste, cant really comment on that. Really the spring/shock combo is to taste as well, especially with modification. The aftermarket is full of options with everything from racing springs to air ride and hydraulics. Personally Im into comfort and luxury, so I always keep the air ride on my Lincolns. Air Ride Technologies have kits to replace your old horse cart springs with air bags that will perform well, as well as ride well. Its a costly upgrade, but well worth it for the best of both comfort and performance. Many "racing springs" are pretty stiff. While that might be nice to help reduce body roll during high speed cornering on the track, everyday driving will be a miserable, back shattering experience. Ive ridden in lowered cars with stiff springs on the road, and they're almost un-drivable. They bounce so much they're unstable (No pot holes on the track, so they're not designed for that), and so harsh and uncomfortable, more than a 15 minute drive and you want to shoot yourself. I really still cannot fathom why kids do this to their DD cars, other than being young and ignorant. TL;DR Leave it stock, or ruin your car for any use other than a weekend track car, or spend WAY too much money to do it correctly. Good luck
Sounds like you have more of a project, than a DD vehicle. Might as well yank the drive train and start over with something more modern that will give you better performance, economy, and reliability. Sounds like you need a Painless Wire kit to sort out (What I imagine is) the old hacked up wiring. Basically the vehicle needs to be stripped and started over...... It takes a lot of time and $$$, but the aftermarket parts are out there to make it come together.
Will all springs bounce like that? I don't want to slam my car. Just fix the suspension and close the wheel gap a bit. I want a smooth ride even if it's a bit stiff, but will 2" or less still make it unbearable to drive comfortably? I was thinking tien s-tech springs with KYB AGX's.
I have racing beat springs on my rx7 not bouncy at all ..ride decent enough for 25 year old 2seater sports car. But it's a sports car..you don't buy to ride nice lol. Bouncy sprigs are usually associated with cut springs not lowering springs unless maybe you have a stock strut. Kyb agx are great and adjustable I had them on my celica. Tein springs are decent enough as far as lowering springs go. But your galant is a luxury car so you will notice the ride difference a good bit. My buddies 240sx rides better than my car on fortune auto coil overs.. that's why I said Coilovers in your other thread a GOOD pair of Coilovers will ride dam good depending on the damper adjustment. Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
I'm trying to figure out why my truck died on me. Its a 2003 chevy tracker. Here's what I've done: Added gas to make sure the fuel gauge didn't go out on me. Has plenty of battery. Starter turns over. Fuel pump turns on when the key gets turned on. I tryied Spraying starter fluid into the carb and still didn't fire up. I pulled a spark plug and tried starting it and it has spark. I unhooked the positive lead to the battery to reset the ECU. I've checked all the fuses and don't see any blown. Fuel filter is a little dirty But not bad. Anyone have any other suggestions? Please.. I've done everything besides push it off a cliff. Nef
Perfect compression when tested 5 months ago. Apex seals rarely ever fail. Oil control rings or coolant seals are the issue... If you really want to call it that. Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum Perfect compression when tested 5 months ago. Apex seals rarely ever fail. Oil control rings or coolant seals are the issue... If you really want to call it that. Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
I watched a video on how to make them more (reliable) if that's a thing don't know much about them I'll just stick with my pistons lol
heyy guys soo I took my car in to get inspected or w/e and they said I need my brakes & rotors. Front and back done, cost for this $800 not sure if this including calipers or if I even need those done to. Anyway was wondering if u guys think this is a fair price?? someone else quoted me $450 for front an back, but said something about calipers which I'm not sure my car needs. Opinions? I really dont wanna get ripped off and I don't know if I have that kind of money ($800) to just put into my brakes when I need a lot of other things done to..
got a new 45 and straight -10an fitting for the oil drain on my turbo, ive had it with these small oil leaks and this is the last part. The summit an fittings are weeping so im going to put some russel ones on there with some new braided hose, try and do everything perfect to a T. The 45 is a swivel and i ve heard that they can weep from there on the summit ones. Its such a slow weep that i cant lay under the car and watch it but when i drive around aggressively its enough to put up some smoke from the tail pipe but not enough to drip on the ground. Then i come back in the am and shits dripped around the pipe down to the ground. Oh yah, got this http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_IV--TDI/Suspension/Refresh_Kits/ES259954/ coming for my VW, its got no bushings left in the front, clicks and clanks like a mofo i think this winter killed it.
450$ is legit if that is calipers, rotors and pads. 800$ seems pretty steep: Front rotors: roughly 50$ each (x2) Rear rotors: 30-50$ each (x2) Calipers: 50-75$ each (x4) Pads: 20$ a pair (4 needed) Not sure on what they'll charge for new brake fluid. These are just rough estimates, but this will give you an idea of labor cost involved. 800$'S a little high, but depends on what exactly theyre doing.