One thing I noticed with chrome is that if you live in an area that sprays that de icer stuff on the roads it can eat the plaiting off if it is a cheap kind and yes I know this post is old but I just found this thread. Oh and like we say over the road "Chrome don't get ya home lol. " Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
HEH - There is a cab-over from the mid to late 60's down the street that looks like its got 5 million miles on it.. With that slogan across the front
At least its out... Now all thats left to do is everything //static.grscty.com//public/style_emoticons/default/poke.gif
Put one of those Supra motors in I think it is called a xj14k1 and two big ass hair dryers on it and that bastard will be the ultimate sleeper. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Pfft....weeeeeak//static.grscty.com//public/style_emoticons/default/poke.gif If you're gonna do it - Do it right..
I would get one of those but I want it to run more than a week lol. I do own a '03 Denali with the 6.0 that hauls the mail though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Those things are pretty much bullet proof.. Most modern engines (barring exotics) are built to run well over 250K The LS platform (Thats in your Denali) is as proven as anything else. Its been around for like 30 years The LSX is SEVERELY overbuilt too - Because they know they're for racing.. They're gonna get BEAT on. That thing has MASSIVE internals. I donno why people think that american engines dont last.... NYC Taxi's ROUTINELY have 500K+ And they all run Fords... I know there started to be a lot of prius and toyota vans after Ford killed the Panther Platform.... They're not holding up as well
Yeah my Denali has 165000 on her with regular maintenance. I do think I have a blown head gasket. I am going to get it pressure checked soon but I don't drive it a ton right now cause the weather is nice and I have been running the snot out of my Mustang while I can before I put it away for winter. Oh and that was just a shot at Chevy not about durability lol. I am an American muscle kind of guy and I am not into imports much. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hmmm I know the vortec engines had a problem with the intake gaskets going... If you've got water in your oil (It'll look like grey soup) - you're taking a big chance running it... Eventually you'll burn up the bottom end.. lose oil pressure, and seize that fucker....
Yep you're right. I got really good at doing that job on the 4.3l v6. There are neoprene and multilayer options out there. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
lol.. well do some research on the 2.7 v-6 Chrysler is using, it has a design defect and the oil boils, so it gums the motors up. It was babied, all hwy miles, oil changes, shit the day it stopped still had no leaks, drive great everything works. well except the fricken motor.. lol besides.. I bought a 2013 MKS, twin turbos //static.grscty.com//public/style_emoticons/default/smile.png that's a motor, ha ha..
Ah - Well you know Im a Lincoln man, so I approve of your choice I will say that if your oil is boiling, it wouldn't gum up if you used synthetic oil BTW - In a turbo car it is HIGHLY recommended that you use synthetic (Unless it a rotary engine). Regular oil scorches at the high temps seen in the turbo, and leads to sludge, which clogs oil passes, and kills the engine - Which you undoubtedly found out.
Yeah, had I know I would have opted for synthetic in the Chrysler. def.. love that car . its in the drive. not sure what im going to do with it yet, still a sharp car. The MKS, has a oil monitoring system, it tells you when it needs to be changed and all done by dealer, I have a 100000 mile bumper to bumper on it so Ill only allow them to touch it, I think your right though it runs synthetic, its the eco motor which is known for running very cool, think it has like 380 hp or something, Car launches when you hit it though. I was looking at challengers and 300's with hemi's, drove a few of them damn near did it, they sound bad ass. then the ford dealer I stopped at because my wife said youll get a better deal on that challenger because its in a ford dealer. talked with him a few minutes told him what I had been looking at and about my 300, he handed me the keys to the mks said you need to drive this. hour later I was signing papers.. this car out performs any of the Hemis I drove hands down. 1st ford or Lincoln Ive owned. Never would have thought id have one.
Ive been told that those oil life monitoring systems run on an algorithm based on full synthetic oil. A lot of people go to their local quick lube, and put the $19.99 oil in, drive 15-20K, the OLMS says they have 15% life left, the oil is basically tar, and wonder why the engine full of sludge, and tapping.....//static.grscty.com//public/style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif I actually hate those OLMS's. They're based on something that most people dont do (Jiffy lube charges close to $100 for a full syn oil change so everyone gets the $19.99 cheapo crap) and ends up ruining more engines than it saves. IIRC the dealers use a syn-blend (Which because of recycling most oil is a blend of some sort). Its better than dino oil, but will still sludge up the engine. At least its THEIR fault when the engine heads south 100K is barely broken in for modern (WELL MAINTAINED) engines. So even with poor maintenance, you should get there without worries The thing is with the turbos... Turbos create a LOT of heat - Which is what kills engines. Synthetic oil has been shown to reduce engine temps as much as 10*. That might not sound like much, but it could be the difference between scorching or not. Internal turbo temps can get well above 800*. Regular oil scorches around 600*.. Synthetic around 1500* You do the math I usually suggest going to the local APS and getting their full syn oil change special (Oil and QUALITY filter) that just about every parts store has every month, and taking it somewhere to have them do the oil change with your stuff. Donno if you checked out this thread I started or not - But its a good source for determining a quality filter...(Fram is NOT one of them). http://forum.grasscity.com/planes-trains-automobil... I ran Castrol Full syn and a Bosch Premium filter in my Townie. At 5K, the oil still looked like I poured it in yesterday. I only changed it @ 20K, because it had 20K on it (I do change my filter every 5K though)... The oil was dark brown, but not black, and still flowed fine.... And I BEAT that car... Like my foot was ALWAYS in it I blew up the trans by towing way too much. It has like 260K when I (mistakenly) junked it... Didnt smoke or burn a drop
2005 Legacy GT One of the three stock catalytic converters gave out (after 200k miles on it) so it was time to replace all three (one in up pipe, one in down pipe, one in mid pipe). Instead of OEM I decided to do aftermarket. Cobb intake, heatbox and accessport combo, cobb UP and DP, Nameless Performance catback and downpipe shield. All gaskets exposed in the process to be replaced with Grimmspeed. Looks like it's gonna run right around 3k for those parts and installation of them. Took the opportunity to install some mudflaps on her as well.
Four things burn up the converters: 1: Using too high octane gas (Or those "Octane 104" type additives) That creates a LOT of excess carbon build up which will clog them. 2: Needing a tune-up. The fuel doesnt burn completely, creating excess carbon build up. Which usually leads to... 3: Having the "Check Engine Light" on, and ignoring it. With the CEL on the vehicle runs in "limp mode", which increases the fuel delivery, so the engine doesnt run lean and damage itself. That excess fuel will mess up the O2 sensor, and eventually take out the converter. Not to mention the loss of power and fuel economy. Something simple like needing to clean the MAF, or a $50 tune-up, could end up costing 3K 4: Taking a lot of short trips Taking short trips the vehicle doesnt have a chance to get up to full operating temperature and boil off all the moisture. Especially in colder climates. Anyway, it sounds like you've got your work cut out for ya... If in doubt, Pull out the "Hot Wrench"