If you've got a car, likely you've got some sort of problem That light on the dash.. That noise when you go over bumps, or turn No clue on how or when to perform regular maintenance? You've stopped into the right place Ive been under the hood for over 25 years You've got questions, we've got answers Anyone else handy with a wrench around here??
Idk shit about Cars tbh.. lol but nice thread idea. I'm thinking about buying some rims for my G6... What color do you think would look best with a dark steel gray? I'm thinking maybe a nice gunmetal...? Idk tho. --Not my car, but that color is pretty close.
I've got a question...just got a 02 Civic, and when you press the door lock button twice the fucking horn beeps.... do you know how to defeat this feature? Guess I could google it......
Pretty sure that beep is to alert you to the factory anti-theft arming. If you press it once it just locks the doors. I just dug through the parts catalog, it looks to me like a USA EX car was factory equipped with both alarm and keyless. You shouldn't need the fob to make the alarm work, just roll the drivers window down, lock the doors with the power lock button, and shut the door. Wait 60 seconds. Reach in the open window and unlock the door. If it has the alarm and it is still functioning, it will go off. Unlock the door with the key to shut it off.
Thanks, I went to a Honda forum and the main answer was, "Don't push the button twice" I do think it is the alarm setting as well.....
Derp lol A lot of newer OEM anti-theft just blink the lights. Its not like a deaf person can hear the horn, and blind people are driving The owners manual might have a way to disable that function
the mr has a slight misfire/hiccup at idle. It is driving me up a fuckin wall trying to figure out. It ll idle fine that miss-a-beat then keep going. The datalogs show it spikes rich when this happens so im thinking lack of spark. I redid half the grounds yesterday and am going to finish up today hoping maybe just a bad ground and some noise in the system might be causing the issue. Megasquirts pretty sensitive to that shit (in my datalogs of sensors i can see some noise) and my car was pretty poorly grounded when i started messing with the wires i realized how many werent in place or were just all sorts of corroded.
Could always give this a try if you're unsure of your grounds.. http://www.lincolnsonline.com/tech/00259.html
I used to be an auto major until I realized it was more of a hobby so I dropped out of the program and switched into civil engineering haha. Anyways, I was taking a brakes class when I dropped but now I am starting to wish I finished that class because my new 2007 Chevy Cobalt possibly has warped rotors but I'm not 100% sure on how to check for that. When I use the brakes at higher speeds and on a downward angle they like to vibrate and it definitely does not feel very smooth like brakes are supposed to. I checked the pads and they are fine but I am not very sure on the rotors. I just want to diagnose the problem myself before I spend the money to have them machined or replaced; I just need to know exactly what I should be looking for.
If they vibrate, they're warped. Generally warped rotors are no longer turned because they are too thin, and the price of new rotors has come down significantly. Pads and rotors as low as $83 on Rockauto.com When replacing rotors ALWAYS use brake cleaner on the new surfaces to remove the packing grease. Failure to do so will warp the rotors in short time. Also be sure to correctly torque the lug nuts. Improperly, and unevenly torqued lug nuts will warp rotors as well.
Thanks! I'll probably just go ahead and change the pads too. Now I've just got to borrow a torque wrench from somebody haha.
Also ALWAYS lube all slide pins with this stuff... Over heated rotors warp. Basically heat is what warps them... If a caliper is sticking, or hanging up, this will over heat the rotors. Many guys skip this very important step.
You can pick up a cheap "Beam" type for under $20 at any autoparts store. 80-100 Ft-Lbs in a star pattern
I have a 1990 GMC with the tbi 4.3l and as soon as it hits 85 degrees it gets bogged down and starts missing. Its not undrivable at that point, but it definitely looses a good 30hp.
im not so worried that i have a ground, its that i may have a difference in ground potential between sensors causing some noise on the signal which thereforre causes the computer to be incorrectly calculating the fuel load and wreaking havoc on how it runs.
check some of these things 1) Inspect Air Filter Restricted or clogged air filter. 2) Inspect Fuel Filter Clogged or dirty fuel filter 3) Inspect Distributor Worn, loose or incorrectly adjusted distributor. 4) Inspect Distributor Cap Loose or cracked distributor cap 5) Inspect Distributor Cap And Rotor Kit Loose, cracked, or worn distributor cap and ignition rotor. 6) Inspect Spark Plug Fouled, damaged or broken spark plug(s). 7) Inspect Wireset Damaged, worn, or deteriorating spark plug or coil wire(s). 8) Inspect Throttle Position Sensor Faulty throttle position sensor or throttle position sensor circuit. 9) Inspect Catalytic Converter Clogged, damaged, defective or faulty catalytic converter. 10) Inspect Air Cleaner Temperature Sensor Damaged or faulty air cleaner temperature sensor or air cleaner temperature sensor circuit. 11) Inspect Coil - Ignition Damaged or faulty ignition coil or ignition coil circuit. 12) Inspect EGR Valve Clogged, dirty or improperly functioning or defective egr valve. I honestly would start with #5, #6, #7, #9, #10 and #12 With that age Im guessing higher mileage too. Might be time for some new injectors. Looks like they're about $50 a piece :/
Air filter and fuel filter are new, distributor cap isnt cracked, points look good and plugs are relatively new. I know its not the cat, shouldn't be injectors this truck has half the miles of most cars I've had.
Your engine has an issue when warm, when the ECM is in closed loop condition, reading and acting upon the data from the sensors. When cool, the ECM runs open loop, which is a pre-defined air/fuel mixture/timing curve. One of your sensors sounds as if it is acting up or you have a vacuum leak that is masked by the rich open loop settings. To look for the vacuum leak, spray carb cleaner on every vacuum line and intake manifold edges on a warmed up, running engine. A change in RPM will indicate a vacuum leak. If that checks out, look up and measure the resistance of the sensors and compare to specs. Particularly check the Inlet air temp, and Coolant temp, (not guage), sensors. I actually substitute a resistor of the nominal value for the sensor in question, (1.5K for the IAT sensor for example), to see whether the problem goes away. Since it seems the temperature is the root of the problem, I would have to suspect either the Coolant Temperature Sensor or the Air Intake Temperature Sensor. It seems what's happening is one of those sensors are indicating to the ECM that a temperature is higher than it actually is and the ECM is leaning out the fuel mixture to compensate. Both are cheap and easy to replace, so I would go with that first. \t