OK sorry guys I'm shitty with updates. I took 8 clones a little over 2 weeks ago and have had 100% success with my method using aloe Vera. If anyone would like to know my technique feel free to ask.
As for these two they are going through their 2 week stretch period to where they grow far to fast and become bitches to work with.... Damn that's sexist as hell... Sorry to any female viewers did not intend to say it that way
I used jiffy peat discs as my medium but I too a clone as you normally would the whole 45 angle and scrap the stem. Put them in a old 1 gallon fish tank sprayed them everyday for a week then gradually took the lid off of the tank and spray them when needed
Why in the WORLD would you want to do this? Even if you could... You're not using bottled fertilizers, are you? So what's the point?
I have a organic bottle nute that is a flower booster I'm just taking out any over abundance of any nutrient and it's always good to flush a plant here and there. Doesn't matter if it's organic soil or potting soil
Oh. Didn't realize that you were using bottled nutes. Thought you were working with a water only soil. Flush away.... Nobody flushes organic water only soils. Nobody....
I should have been more clear... Nobody that understands soil chemistry flushes their water only organic soils.
Flushing a water only soil mix is like jerking off without lube.... It hurts to think about it. Bham Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
I agree. Lots of people do not understand their soils. http://www.thesoilguy.com/SG/SaltsInSoil-DirtAndCompost If he has issues with nitrogen then leaching it out is worthwhile. Nitrogen is easily removed and slow to regenerate: http://www.extension.umn.edu/agriculture/nutrient-management/nitrogen/understanding-nitrogen-in-soils/ I hope he understands his soil better, it looks like he is on to something, LOL!
Thank you and yes I am having a problem with nitrogen and my plants are getting dark dark green almost blue. I think I added far too much high nitrogen bat guano when I mixed my soil. But I am glad there are people out there who know their shit. I have been gardening my entire life and growing dope half of it. I know what I'm doing lol
I love the way you organic guys grow. I am disappointed how many guys seem to know it all and do not want to learn. One would only have to look at how many plants have learned to feed based on seasons. After winter and all the foliage has hit the ground that material is higher in nitrogen. Spring releases a lot of it through rains and rapid decay. As the nitrogen fades many plants learn to refocus their feeding to P an K as nitrogen naturally is gone later in the season, as we go into flower and then into most winters. A awesome cycle many growers have learned from and passed on how to support those cycles. keep up the good work!
What is it that you think I don't understand about this topic? I've been doing nothing but learning about it for the past four years. I read books/articles written by soil scientists, about soil chemistry and microbiology. What am I missing? What is to be learned here? I know how to build compost (I find it rather amusing that you always link to the "soil guy" whenever I bring up compost). And real water only soils. I also know that "salts" are just a fancy name for "nutrient ions" or "fertilizer", and I also know that if properly built, salt build up is not an issue. Are you familiar with Cation Exchange Capacity, and how it helps to regulate hydrogen ion exchange between the soil solute phase and the soil solid phase, thereby helping to buffer soil pH? High CEC soils are not only able to buffer the soils pH, but they also enable the soil to hold onto positively charged nutrient ions, thereby keeping them from being leached from the soil by "flushing". Decaying organic materials have the ability to adsorb negative nutrient ions from solution, thereby keeping them from being "flushed". "Salt buildup" in soils isn't the problem. It's excessive build up of hydrogen in the soil created from over use of soluble fertilizers, or increased concentrations of microbial solubilized nutrients. ph concentration in the soil solution is what inhibits nutrient uptake by the plant. Plants add hygrogen ions into the soil solution in exchange for nutrient cations. They also exchange hydroxyl ions for nutrient anions. Unfortunately, the grand majority of nutrient ions are cations, which naturally tends to drive soil pH down over time if growing in a soil with poor CEC and improper liming. Is it any wonder why so many growers (admittedly mostly new growers) testing pot runoff right after fertilizing typically experience very low pH readings? If nitrogen wasn't used (at the very least) in normal to moderate amounts during the flowering stage, amino acid/protein production, and enzyme synthesis would slow to a halt. These things are necessary for not only the plant, but also for the microbes that provide the nutrients for the plant. You can believe the NPK proponents all you want. That mindset has nothing to do with how living soil systems work... Sorry to jack your thread, Stealth'. Back to "learning". Good luck. I'm out...
Jump, One cool thing that also supports Stealth is how nitrogen and soil work to limit its intake. When soil's horizontal 0-B reach 55 degrees F nitrogen absorption virtually ceases and can start the cycle over as new leaves and decay material stack over the fall and winter. nature is awesome to observe and mimic.