Santas beard mycelium leading to powdery mildew?

Discussion in 'Growing Organic Marijuana' started by Full Spectrum, Dec 12, 2014.

  1. Here's one I have been contemplating. 
     
    During my last run in a 48sf grow tent things were swimming along great until powerdy mildew came outta no where and forced an early chop, only by 1-2 weeks tops. The PM didn't make it into the buds, that I could see at 60x anyway, but did hit about 10-20% of the foliage.
     
    My canopy did get over crowded, lots of air circulation however. I even setup air underneath the canopy, there was not a single blade that didn't see some air movement. Humidity and temperature were under control but near the end I noticed 70% rh in the first 30min before it would drop below 50%. My guess is that I saw a high point of 70% twice a day, coenciding with my watering schedule of every 12 hr. My rh meter only has min/max, no time line. 
     
    I don't think the above is enough to set off PM, but I could be wrong and probably am, lol.
     
    About 7-10 days before this the Santa's beard from my last tea application died off. That made me wonder if the fungi in my soil could live on my plants and present as powdery mildew. Seems unlikely but not that unlikely if conditions are right, for instance if some tea splashed on the blades. I hand water "teas" weekly and there is always some that lands on the plants in ways I  rather it didn't.
     
    Any thoughts? 
     
     

     
  2. PM bites the big one. The 'Santa's Beard' and powdery mildew are completely different types of fungi. Splashing your plants w/ a tea...isn't gonna hurt a thing. You are going to need to get aggressive with your IPM program and clean the living shit out of your room and house. Dropping the RH wouldn't hurt either. Try not to let your night temp fall more than 10 degrees than your day temp.
     
    HTH
     
  3. #3 marvajuana, Dec 12, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 12, 2014
    Wooly aphids (Eriosomatinae) and other sucking insects are often vectors of transmission for Powdery mildew, and other infectious diseases. Typically wooly aphids in sub temperate climates precede and are an indicator of various infections, including Powdery mildew. Aphids penetrate plant surfaces where they often reside and provide a host of potential inoculants through physical, digestive or fecal secretions. Aphids are often an indicator of other potential plant problems.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Milk has long been popular with home gardeners and small-scale organic growers as a treatment for powdery mildew. Milk is diluted with water (typically 1:10) and sprayed on susceptible plants at the first sign of infection, or as a preventative measure, with repeated weekly application often controlling or eliminating the disease. Studies have shown milk's effectiveness as comparable to some conventional fungicides,<sup>[8]</sup> and better than benomyl and fenarimol at higher concentrations.<sup>[9]</sup> Milk has proven effective in treating powdery mildew of summer squash,<sup>[9]</sup> pumpkins,<sup>[8]</sup> grapes,<sup>[10]</sup> androses.<sup>[10]</sup> The exact mechanism of action is unknown, but one known effect is that ferroglobulin, a protein in whey, produces oxygen radicals when exposed to sunlight, and contact with these radicals is damaging to the fungus.<sup>[10]            from wiki but I know milk will kill it.</sup>
     
  4. Huh. I had never heard that before. Aphids did show up when I was working in CA right about the time powdery mildew did. Interesting. I wonder if this is more likely to occur outdoors? Thanks for the info. Although I must say I'm not a fan of using milk.
     
  5. You could make a lacto bacillus culture using milk and apply that to help control and combat PM.
     
    I've only had to deal with it outside in the garden, thankfully, and as I've mentioned before essential oils dominate PM. Though I'm unsure on the longevity of the "break" it does remove any obvious issues after one application. 
     
  6. #6 Greasemonkeyman, Dec 18, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 18, 2014
    I've found a good top mulch helps with slowing the transpiration of water from the soil. With a lot of plants it's totally normal.. especially with a crowded canopy, the leaves them selves will "grab" the water out of the air each time the light comes on and starts to warm it up, just like dewdrop, only in reverse, if that makes sense, a crowded canopy will act like an umbrella catching the evaporating water. Another analogy would be what a lid to a pot of warming water does, it keeps the water in...
    Get a nice dry mulch on top of the soil, preferably partially composted or it may steal some of your nitrogen, you could also layer spaghnum moss too, or any other moss for that matter.
     
  7. The same moist environment where Santa's Beard thrives is also the favorite environment of PM. I'd try to increase your airflow and lower humidity if needed. I've had luck with alternating treatments of neem and milk/water spray to battle existing PM. Temporary heat at 100 degrees is also said to kill PM. That would be my last route though. Good luck.
     
  8. Thanks for the replies, been busy taking care of things.

    I didn't think the Santa's Beard would "jump" to my plants but it's an interesting topic to think about. When I used extra heavy doses of lacto bacillus sometimes a residue will be left behind that looks similar to PM.

    I have a new crop in the garden that will be getting lacto bacillus treatment 1-2x per week as prevention. I'm also considering rosemary in the foliar spray and a garlic/pepper spray for pest prevention. Temps and humidity should be under control for this next run, haven't had any issues for almost two months now. I applied 2-3" of bark mulch over the top of my soil, I have my drip tape under the mulch.

    I'm a little bit concerned about nitrogen getting stripped out, I should be okay but just in case I'll run a little extra N for the next couple weeks. I usually hand water teas or FPE's but with the mulch layer I can't, so I'm going to try out an ez-flo and lightly feed every day.

    Wish me luck!
     
  9. Update:

    The mulch is working great, soil is nice and moist, needs a lot less water, keeps humidity down, and hardly a gnat in sight. I'll be sticking with mulch from here on out.

    I did have an incident of what I'll call PM, for now. I confirmed 100% it is a direct result of my tea. Some tea was spilled on some leaves, those spots grew some white mycelium looking mold. I treated with 1/4c lacto and 1T neem per gallon every 4 days. Ran out of neem in the 4tj application and had to switch to bottled organic mold fighter. Everything looks to be under control.

    Still have to set the ez-flo up, haven't sorted that yet. My BSP is way too thick to get picked up by the ez-flo so I'm working that out next. I may have to go with a dilution, hopefully it will work out.

    I'll post my ez-flo results when I get it sorted.
     

Share This Page