Water leaking in my 97 gmc sonoma

Discussion in 'Planes, Trains & Automobiles' started by Bill Dauterive, Dec 6, 2014.

  1. #1 Bill Dauterive, Dec 6, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 7, 2014
    Okay so there apears to be water leaking from the roof in the back of my truck where the back windshield meets the roof. The leak is right by the dome light. For those who are familiar with s10 and Sonomas extended cabs could you tell me what could be the problem and a cost effective solution.

    Also hows your s10/sonoma been treating you guys. I love my truck.
     
  2. Probably the rear windshield weatherstripping/ or sealant gasket. Most of the times if it leaks, it will pool up in headliner so it may appear in different spots to the eye, but be caused somewhere else.. Re-sealing windshield should fix the problem, or if you can find the weak point, you can try to seal it up by touching up windshield sealant after removing headliner. Try to get ahead of it before it rots out headliners and causes mildew smell.
     
  3. Someone seems to think its licking through the top on the outside on the opposite side of the domelight. I will post a picture.
    I still think its the seal arouns the windshield aswell.
     
  4. Hotbox the shit out of your truck and get a homie to stand outside and watch for leaks. Then replace what ever gasket is leaking, or buy a new truck I'll sell you my s10 for $800 haha.
     
  5. #5 Bill Dauterive, Dec 7, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 7, 2014
    Must be a piece of shit haha. But I dont think its a gasket. Its leaking water right around the domelight by the rear windshield. I noticed this last night when I was hotboxing my truck as it was raining last night. Its not a hug leak but there was water in the back cab of my truck and it was wet around the domelight.
     
  6. #6 Bill Dauterive, Dec 7, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 7, 2014
    2014-12-07_14-14-43_671.jpg
    2014-12-07_14-14-43_671.jpg

    Someone said thats its leaking through this redlight.
     
  7. Ahhhh, I see, so this is the actual brake light? You may be able to use a rubber material like this:

    https://www.google.com/shopping/product/4392514276422081363?q=rubber+gasket&biw=768&bih=900&bav=on.2,or.&bvm=bv.80642063,d.eXY&tch=1&ech=1&psi=N6-EVO-pI4HdggTguoC4Bg.1417981754148.5&prds=paur:ClkAsKraX04XC2C-4zFy3OzQdYvQpRYPSbq0WOyT89lninxHYLxq7DgQZBH79xJpbdq_6A0QIbO384d-W2y4xflCyBXxVYG0GfyGs8wZJ0A3bA0u4dqsYbvqeRIZAFPVH73AcatyPkFez-hDT4rYP2CRYW7muw&ei=Qa-EVKO5KIXNgwTShITYCg&ved=0COYBEKYrMAU

    And just cut to size, take out brake light housing, place made gasket on backside that rests against body panel, then remount.
     
  8. #8 Bill Dauterive, Dec 7, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 7, 2014
    Its located on the exterior of the truck on the roof. Will I need some kind of adhesive? Can I seal it with some type of silicone?
     
  9. #9 DBV, Dec 7, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 7, 2014
    You could use silicone or urethane, but just know that it will be hard to remove and re-apply if you ever have to change out the bulb etc. a rubber gasket would be re-useable and easier should you ever have to take off the light housing in the future.. I'm not sure of the surface area that the light housing rests on the body panel, but you want to be very careful with silicone because if you put too much toward the edge, it will squeeze out when remounting the light and look funky and it will be difficult trimming without damaging paint.

    Normally with those type of lights, the red lens removes from the housing and the lens will have a rubber seal as well so you can look into replacing this seal/gasket to see if it helps as well.
     
  10. Have you pulled the third brake light to inspect? I don't seem to remember any gaping holes there. As stated it is actually quite common for older vehicles to have window seal issues. If you get really lucky, and there is a gasket problem with the third brake light, use rtv or waterproof silicone to seal the hole/gasket. If it is the seal, which it probably is, I don't think it would cost all to much to get it reset. 
     
    My 1988 s15 had similar problems, in the front, it was the seal. In my 2000 s10, I popped the rear window(no slider) from too much power through the subs. I have rarely heard of other cars having problems with window seals, but s10/s15/sonoma have had a lot. Check on
     
    http://www.s10forum.com/forum/
     
    Anything you think of has already happened on this site, it is invaluable for s-chassis 
     
  11. Thanks man.Yeah there was already some type of sealant one the light it was like hard glue. It wasnt hard to get off or noticeable til I took a closer look at. But i got the light off halfway without breaking the seal and there was a rubber gasket there it looked like it was torn apart in one corner but I left it on there since I wasnt 100% sure. I'll go the cheap route first and replace the gasket and then pour a bucket of water over it and see what happens.

    If thats doesnt work ill go reset the window.
     
  12. Ya, it's the only way to figure it out man. Bet the Torx got you confused for a min. The gasket, if you can find one, should be under 10$, otherwise you're getting ripped off, and you can cut your own, or use some waterproof silicone, or marine sealant of some sort. 
     
  13. #13 Bill Dauterive, Dec 10, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 11, 2014
    The torx?
    edit: oh yeah I was like wtf for a quick second then I realized it would come right off with an allen wrench.
    Had to use one last week to remove the door latch on the third door because the mechanism to unlatch the door was broke on the inside of the door itself spent over a half hour walking the junkyard looking for a s10 that still had its handle on the third door

    Apparently its pretty common for the mechanism inside the latch to break off aswell.
     
  14. On ebay there is a metal 3rd door handle lever kit, it was like 20$ years ago, the trick is though you have to put pressure on the third door before opening it. The plastic usually gets brittle and can't handle the torque of the latch. Try to avoid using allen or hex on torx, just go to harbor freight and get a set of drivers. 
     
  15. #15 Bill Dauterive, Dec 10, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 10, 2014
    Why? Do you think it will strip the torx possibly? and yeah I did notice that the third door only seemed to open when I pushed in on it, i thought maybe my door was defective but like you said once you get the hang of it, it opens great although sometimes I forget I have a third door haha. I guess ill see about fixing that leak friday.
     
  16. Got glue, gorilla glue, super glue, epoxy, chewing gum.
     
  17.  
    None of those listed will do anything to stop water. Epoxy will, but only if it is marine epoxy. Marine grade silicone is far superior if it gets cold, as it stays somewhat flexible, and easier to work with. Your input is useless in this matter. 
     
    Yeah you can strip torx using hex, although I have saved some stripped torx with a flat blade screwdriver. The big issue with torx is a lot of people don't have them, and think they will never use them, then they are needed. If you take the third brake light off and take a pic, I may be able to help out a bit. 
    I never forgot about my third door, as it was access to my 2x12 JL w3's, and my 2 amps. 
     
  18. You're so cool! I'm impressed
     
  19. You post so much BS, I'm surprised you stay satisfied. AGAIN there are valid questions here, they deserve valid responses, not some bs that you think of while taking a dump. 
    You try to flame noobs in the toking tools section, now you're trolling a guy with an issue telling him to put gum in a light socket. You're so cool there's ice coming out your anus
     
  20. Bows down to ultimate badassery.
     

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