Aloha, First of all i'll skip the introduction and my grow details as you can find them here: http://forum.grasscity.com/absolute-beginners/1341763-first-grow-need-confirmation-male.html That male has been identified and shot down. Moving on. The problem this time is that i am really starting to worry about a small problem on the other 2 plants for a while now. It started probably a little after the flowering switch was made and at first on the lower leaves you could see and feel something like SALT forming on the leaves. Take a look at those 2 photos: You can see what i'm talking about in the middle leaf. And as you can see in the right one the progression is to go lighter green -> yellow -> brown = dead. For now the problem exists on both plants so i'm guessing PH or nutrient problem. I did have some PH fluctuations when this problem was happening. Also just yesterday they went 3 days without watering and they were really droopy but that ok now. This condition pre-existed as it's there for at least 20 days now.. Here are some more pictures you might find usefull: 2 other problematic leaves that where cut off..(all 5 leaves where from the bottom of the plant) an overview but with HPS light (sorry about that..): Top Bud shots from both plants..they look super fine to me: Lower on the Pineapple Chunk: Other affected (early stages) leaves that are still on the plants (look at that "salt"/crystal thing): This one is just yellow or really pale green. It was cut off and pictured as you can see above: And a general one: Whatever it is, it seems to be going upwards. Until last Friday they were getting only the Sensi Bloom A+B. From then on i added Big Bud, Bud Candy and started B-52 again. That's it. Any help and/or suggestion would be much appreciated.
Other notes: I've treated the coco with dolomite lime. Just a little. So i don't think it's has anything to do with Cal/Mag issues. I've read a LOT about dolomite lime and the controversy is huge but i trust Ed's post saying it's fine. I know i need to lift up the lights as i have noticed the heat stress on the top of the plants. Will do that tomorrow. I was thinking i should just run them with a lot of PHed (5.8) water (flush) to get rid of salt in the coco. I've read that I should be doing that every 4-6 weeks just to stay clear of nutrient lockout.
What i'm currently considering: Manganese Deficiency: http://www.growweedeasy.com/manganese-deficiency-cannabis No as: With a manganese deficiency, the yellowing will begin at the base of the leave and move outwards towards the tips. So not my case.. Nitrogen Deficiency: http://www.growweedeasy.com/nitrogen-deficiency-cannabis I might be having 2 separate issues going on. This really looks like Nitrogen deficiency if you look at pictures 3 and 4. And if you consider the 55 days flowering cycle i'm at 29 days before harvest. But i've also read a LOT about those 2 strains from Barney's Farm and that they will flower up to 110 days!!! (I really hope not). Spider Mites.. http://www.growweedeasy.com/spider-mites OH be damned if i have those. But i don't think so. Here why: I checked and rechecked the soil and the leaves and i can't seem to find a single mite or anything moving..nor a web. Plus ..my leaves are turning pale green etc not straight to yellow. Nutrient Burn: This is where i'm going to...I've "hitted" my plants with FULL bottle percentages of AN Sensi Bloom for a bit more than 20 days now (since i switched them to flowering). Just now i added some additives (Bid Bud, Bud Candy and B-52 again). But until now it was only the base nutrient so i figured I should do a full dose.. which brings me to a REALLY newbie question: I'm using a 2-part fertilizer. On every bottle (part A and part B) it says 4ml per Liter. Do i add 2ml of part A and 2ml of part B to get a full dosage or 4ml of part A and 4ml of part B? I assumed the second. If it's the first then congrats to me, i've fried my plants. I should have made sure before.. Why i don't think it's nutrient burn: If it is ...its not an early stage..so the later stage is like this: http://www.growweedeasy.com/sites/growweedeasy.com/files/ultra-nutrient-burn-sm.jpg which doesn't resemble my case at all. Also in my case it started from the lower leaves while the top half of the plants seems unaffected until now (apart from a little heat stress). In nute burn if i understand correctly all the tips should show the same symptoms..or at least not just the lower ones. Last but not least i have noticed some tips curling down in the last 4 days (since i added the additives) and that a sing of nute burn. more specifically Nitrogen Toxicity. But that's completely contrary to the nitrogen deficiency i'm considering! Last but not least ...PH problems well it's has happened. I know it. I've watered my plants with 5.2 phed water accidentally. but ONCE. Since then i'm at 5.8-6.3..
You said "bottom leaves" and "during flowering"... If that's the case...you don't have a problem. Bottom sun leaves aren't getting as much light now, are less useful...it happens (especially on an indoor grow). Even more true if you're using the "100 watts per plant rule", CFLs or LEDs. Red wavelengths aren't as energetic, they don't penetrate as deeply. The lower leaves stop getting as much light, the plant lets them die rather than waste energy "feeding" them. NO lighting system provides anywhere near the lumens of sunlight, and light fall-off is a function of the square of the distance from the source. CFLs and LEDs don't put out shit, for penetration...at 18 inches, you get 4.9 lumens DIRECT light from a 100 watt CFL, compared to 128,000 from sunlight, or 98 from a 400 watt HID (or 237 from a 1000 watt HID), and an LED, while it gives more light overall, each diode releases less light than a 23/100 CFL, so it doesn't even get THAT much, as far as "penetration" goes...fall-off is calculated from "lumens produced by each light source", so if your LED gives off 324 lumens at one inch per LED, it gives ONE at 18 inches...it might have enough LEDS that, added up, that's a LOT more than even a HID at 18 inches...but the fall-off figure is faster (40 3 watt LEDS giving off 324 lumens each gives 1 lumen each at 18 inches, so 40 lumens hits the plant at that distance....but 18 inches FURTHER down, each LED supplies only .25 lumens for a total of 10 lumens hitting the plant's leaves...IF there's no shading by other leaves. To compare, a 23/100 CFL puts off 1500-1700 at the bulbs, so at 18 inches, it still has 4.9 lumens to deliver, and at 36 inches has 1.23 lumens...while your LED system initially delivered 12,960 total lumens...see the problem?)
Thank you very much for your answer. I really hope you're right. How about this really easy question?
Depends...is one a vegging fertilizer, and one a flowering, as is normally the case? If so HELL no. Use 4ml per gallon of one in veg, switch to 4ml per gallon during flower. For instance, Fox Farms puts out a Bloom Booster flowering nute...nute balance is "2-8-4". Their Grow Big (vegging product is) "6-4-4" (those are the ratios of each active nutrient) During veg phase, different nutrients are needed...you want to be producing lots of sugars for energy to grow. During flowering phase, you don't want high sugar/high energy, you want robust health. To put it in terms most people grasp easily, one is a diet for a growing kid, the other is the diet for an adult who regularly does a moderately intense cardio workout. One makes you grow like hell, and stay really healthy while doing it...if an adult ate that same 2 whole pizzas, a half gallon of milk, and a steak for dinner diet, he'd collapse of a coronary. If a kid ate a largish salad, a can of tuna, and a cup of milk, he'd be starving hungry and not grow as well or as healthily. If, on the other hand, they are both designed for vegging, don't mix them...unless you study the chemistry behind them, first. You could literally make an explosive that way, in some cases. My personal pattern is to mix using a baby medicine dropper, and feed each plants with 2 cups of water every other day, in a 6 gallon pot filled to about 2 inches from the rim with soil. Most "guides" will tell you "water only when the plant needs it, feed it every other watering", but my experience is, try that, you end up not knowing when the plants "need watering" until wilt starts showing up...not that they don't recover as soon as watered and fed...but how healthy do you think the result is, if the plant gets so hungry it gets sick, then gets fed, then gets that hungry, then gets fed, all through its cycle? Come flowering, I went to 2 cups every 3 days.
No no no...you got me all wrong this time. It's a "general knowledge" question... I'll make a new thread on that cause i think all my writing is scaring people away from a silly question. Thanks anyway.
you generally want to use 1/2 recommended dose. then work your way up if more is necessary. seems like simply a minor ph issue. get it up around 6.1 and see if it improves could be root bound or calcium buildup though. what size pots and did you flush before switching to flower?
Just got back from the garden...it's a confirmed case of Thrips Could be worse...but still... :/ Anyway i just made a mix of olive oil soap, alcohol (96% pure "Spirit", not sure if it's the right word) and water to spray the leafs, stems and soil. It's 100% organic so i don't think there will be any problem.. I won't try to kill every last one of them just keep them in low numbers..from what i've read i have about 30 days to harvest..so they are not much of a threat... they will affect my harvest weight though... :/ Here are some pics from today: What really worries me is if the "orange" buds are damaged...?! Will they recover? Are they safe to be smoked? Again..top buds are unaffected..but around the middle of the plant as you can see in the pics turned orange and they seem like they "shrunk".