[Discussion] Possible Reasons for Cannabis Growth to Stop After Transplant

Discussion in 'Growing Organic Marijuana' started by panda_shop, Nov 12, 2014.

  1. Hi, I use 50% perlite and 50% organic soil to grow my auto flowering Vertigo. Its growth is a bit slow in comparison to its hydroponic twin sister but otherwise healthy. The challenge emerged after I transplant it into a bigger pot where same 50% perlite and 50% organic soil is used (and pure sands on top to reduce surface moisture). The lighting condition has not yet changed either. The only damage to the plant was minor when the bottom of root ball fell apart during the transplant. About one eighth or less of the root system was damaged (if damaged at all).
     
    I have noticed the plant slowed down its growth in the first two days and then it stopped the growth all together (or at a hyper slow pace). Now one week has passed, it hasn't recovered. The early leaves started to turn lighter green so I suspect a nitrogen or other type of nutrient deficiency. I ruled out root rot after I carefully dug out some soil around the stem and checked the root system. It seems very healthy, some small new roots even grew out. I then added some organic bone meal to the top of the soil before I watered it this morning. Unfortunately though, so far I haven't seen any sign of recovery of this plant (14 hours later).
     
    What are the possible reason for the growth to slow down and stopped completely?

     
  2. I forgot to mention, I use distilled water that has sat 24 hours at PH level of 6.8 to 6.9.
     
  3. Do you have any idea what the "organic soil" is composed if? Also, that sounds like too much aeration. (Perlite)
     
  4.  
    Foxfarm Ocean Forest.
     
    Also I have noticed there is no wilting (in fact more healthy looking than some of my other plants). The only two unhealthy signs being the stop of the growth and the light green color of the leaves.
     
  5. Also the growth didn't really "stop." It's just slowed down to hyper sluggish speed. While its sister developers new set of leaves everyday, its new leaves grow about 10% everyday (so about in the last 8 days only one set of the new leaves and not even fully grown).
     
  6. It's called 'transplant shock' ....imagine that. It can take a week or two for it to snap out of it. Especially if you didn't use any precautions like an alfalfa/kelp tea at transplant.  Auto's should never be transplanted...life's to short for them. They don't like it. It greatly reduces the already skimpy yield.
     
  7.  
    Interesting. The plant is currently recovering from the transplant shock. I tested the runoff water today and realized the soil might be alkaline for some reason yet to know. http://forum.grasscity.com/indoor-medical-marijuana-growing/1343225-discussion-possible-reasons-high-alkaline-runoff-water.html
     
    After I added the organic bone meal the plant seems to resume its growth and the new leaves start to turn green. I suspect the new soil was not providing enough nutrients to the plant, in addition to the lack of hydrogen ions. 
     
  8. It will take 3-6 months before bone meal becomes available to the plant. Around here we just mix up a soil and roll w/ it. That's as far as we go when it comes to being concerned w/ pH.
     
  9. it probably went into shock from all the transplanting. Why can't anyone just stick a clone in a 10 gallon terracota pot and let it grow naturally? All the trees in the forests were never transplanted.
     
  10.  
    I see. I perhaps the light green leaves has something to do with the lack of iron - which would be a result of alkaline soil.
     
  11. Not having good contact of the root ball and the fresh mix around it in the larger container can also result in what you're describing. The roots cannot bridge an air gap.
     
    Usually happens when the fresh mix isn't wet enough, or not firmly packed in between the root ball and the container wall.
     
    Just a thought.
     
    Wet
     
  12. Panda, perhaps your soil is too wet and/or too cold. These two soil conditions will definitely encourage growth to slow and/or stop.

    Check it out....
     
  13. #13 panda_shop, Nov 21, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 24, 2014
     
    You are probably right because I have recently discovered fungus gnats on this particular plant. Some leaves were effected by the gnats bites and they died.
     
    This is what I do not like about organic solution the most. The grower will have to deal with the pest. I added a fan specifically next to the plant to blow on top of the soil, and warm up the environment to 80 degrees from 75 degrees. In addition I will also reduce the water for the this plant. Hopefully in two weeks the gnats will be gone.
     
  14.  
    Gnats do not feed on plant leaves.  If you've experiencing "bites" that caused leaf damage and death, you may have another critter to deal with.
     
    Spider mites maybe?  Check the undersides of the leaves.  Look REALLY close...
     
  15.  
    You are right. It's probably not gnats who bit the leaves, but they do exist currently. It's very likely that spider mites do not exist on this plant because the bites do not look like spider mites bites.
     
    The dead leaves turned dry, crispy, and brownish dark green. I suspect it is from some other critter.
     
    I also used Raid on the plant before I knew it is harmful to the plant. The dead leaves could also be a result of harmful chemical.
     
  16. #16 panda_shop, Nov 24, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 24, 2014
  17.  
    So I added a layer of perlite on top of the soil and it doesn't seem to stop the gnats. I just saw two gnats having sex on top of the perlite a few minutes ago and they seem to be having a good time. 
     
  18. #18 waktoo, Nov 29, 2014
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2014
    What did you think the perlite was going to accomplish? It's only going to keep the top of your soil MORE moist, which is why you have gnat problems in the first place.

    Try diatomaceous earth, or neem meal. If you have a serious gnat problem, a combination of the two would probably serve you the best.

    DE is mostly silica. It's like tiny shards of glass, which cuts soft bodied soil critters. Good for larvae and adults that are burrowing into the soil to lay eggs.  Sprinkle a generous layer on the top of the soil and work it in a bit.

    Neem is slow release and contains natural chemicals (and beneficial nutrients!) that will kill larvae that might be residing deeper in the soil strata, or those that are fortunate enough not to rub up against a shard of DE.  You don't need as much of this as the DE.  Depending on the size of the pots that you're using, just take a few healthy pinches and distribute evenly around the pot.  Work it in.

    Take the perlite out and water less frequently.
     
  19. Candidly speaking (of course) when I read that Raid was sprayed on the plant I knew then that there were too many variables in trying to help diagnose any kind of problem whatsoever, perhaps save for except one, that would help the future of this poor suffering plant.
     
    Seriously... Raid!
     
  20.  
    Yeah, to be honest I do believe that we're being trolled.
     
    From post #7...
     
    After I added the organic bone meal the plant seems to resume its growth and the new leaves start to turn green. I suspect the new soil was not providing enough nutrients to the plant, in addition to the lack of hydrogen ions. 
     
    Impossible considering the nature of nutrient cycling and low nitrogen content in bone meal...
     

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