Starting off with one NYC Diesel plant, plan on making it a mother and cloning it continuously. I have grown in soil which was very easy but I'm a little confused with the hydro nutrients, ppm, and pH. Just wanted to lay thoughts down to see if I understand it, and get some feedback. So my tap water comes out around 200-230 ppm and around 7.5 pH. I bought the general hydroponics flora trio, so I've been mixing the nutrients per the simple drain to waste feeding schedule... Today - week 2 early growth 1. Put tap water in the 5 gallon bucket 2. Checked pH and ppm of base water (7.5, 230ppm) 3. Mixed in the flora micro, then the grow, then the bloom. 4.. Checked pH and ppm (7.0, 730) 5. Used pH down to get the mix to 5.5 6. Hooked up airstone and set in plant I called GH and they said the total ppms are actually disregarding the water's base ppm... Should I be using the hardwater version of the floramicro? How hard is it to install an RO unit, and what is a good one to look for? Can you see any other blatent fuckups from the pics? Thanks for taking the time to check out my thread.
Make sure to let ur tap water sit for about 3 days most tap water has chlorine. also make sure if ur useing rockwool to not have it surmerged in the water or you will get rot top feed it till the roots are out then just have them sumerged if im correct. looks good tho.
Hi! Looks good, i would reccomend ph at 6.0, i have hardwater too (250ppm) but i dont use the hardwater from flora, i will give it a try but last harvest clocked 850 gram on 1200 watts, so i am not complaining Early grow i use 0.5 EC with the flora series but different strains, different EC-level What light u use?
Jimmytryna- Thanks! I didn't know not to keep the rockwool submerged. Aerogrower34 - 400 Watt, got metal halide going right now and will use high pressure sodium for flowering.
I'm right where you're at with the hydro. To start, check out Hydrologic. http://www.hydrologicsystems.com/products/index.php?id=1&keywords=Hydroponics_and_Gardening_Systems They have a variety of systems that pump out 100 or 200 gal/day. They also have charts that helped me understand better what they actually do. Installation seems like it is self explanatory. Hook it up under a faucet per instructions. If you don't want to buy the filter, just go to the grocery store, and they have distilled water there. Your pics look legit. I need to do some more research on hard vs soft water as well. Cheers
We had a power ourtage due to the storm here in Colorado. The whole room was shut down for about an hour, the light and airstones stopped, and I'd imagine the temp dropped. I went to the bar for an hour and came back to check on things. Despite the cold and power outage, I'm seeing lots of new growth since I increased the nutrient strength yesterday
That's a myth. And we now know the cannabis plants in all reality actually require small ammounts of chlorine. Tomatoes are the closest plant to cannabis as far as nutrient requirements and does your garden die because you're using tap water? No, it does not and the cannabis will not as well.
My one plant has a decent root system and is getting taller/bigger. It's sour diesel. I thought it was stretching a little so I tied the top down and I'm trying encourage some growth on the sides. I'm going to clone the shit outta this plant in a few weeks. The leaves are starting to curl a little, was wondering what that's about... Other than that, nothing else to report.
That's certainly true when it comes to hydro. The chlorine in tap water at that concentration won't harm the plants at all. The reason people recommend you let the water sit open for 24 hours for the chlorine to dissipate is because it will kill the bacteria in the soil. When using raw organic fertilisers in soil you need the bacteria to convert the fertiliser to nutrients that the plant can use. Using chlorine makes the soil a hard place for bacteria to live and so is obviously not a good thing to add. People get this confused and think it harms the plant. In hydro the nutes are already in a form that the plants can use so bacteria is not needed
Hard to tell from your pic but looks like you need to get that light a lil closer how far away from the plant is it? G
It was 18 inches but started turning yellow w brown edges n curling under so I moved it up to 30 inches
Yea 30 is a lil far not terrible just makes for a little stretchy stretchy nothing lsting or topping won't fix I usually keep my lights between 18-24 with a fan blowing directly across lights path, lower than 18 leads to leaf bleaching and below 16 start getting severe leaf damage. Looking good tho happy growing G
I'm growing autos do u still recommend topping? And do u think I should move the light closer? I moved it away cause I thought it was burning my babies but I guess it could b something else that made 2 of the plants yellow and brown edges their about 3 wks old
Sorry for delay in answering , no I wouldn't top autos personally I'm a huge fan of lst by bending or super cropping only time I remove bud sites is when they are on the bottom and get no light G
can you LST it? it's got a terrible shape for flowering indoors, theres too many different heights lol
Put a net across to help you even out the canopy and I bet you you'll be happier with results tie down method takes a little practice to get a nice even canopy. I thought I was replying to op, my bad either way all about learning and sharing G
Here is a example of my current plant that I lst'd, you can look at the bottom branches and see that's what I did. Don't be discouraged by "terrible shape" that's what training is all about, converting that awkward shape into a canopy of nugs. G