Contradicting info and questions on no till

Discussion in 'Growing Organic Marijuana' started by DDP, Nov 8, 2014.

  1.  
    ^^^word

     
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  2. Now you know what business you need to get into.

    J
     
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  3. Yes the malted is sprouted. Two reasons for the malted barley. The first being it eliminates the sprouting process in the SST's. Just grind and soak. The second reason for the malted barley is that barley malting houses have developed processes and procedures to maintain the enzyme content in this grain. The darker the grains the more heat exposure = less enzymes, so your pilsner is the highest enzyme content. Then you get into 2-row vs 6-row barley. 6-row has a higher enzyme count than 2-row. Both effective.

    Same thing goes for the young green coconuts. No prep needed. Drain and dilute, your good to go.

    These SST can be made from all kinds of seeds corn, lentils, clover, etc.... We just know the barley, corn, and coconuts work well in our gardens.
     
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  4. I live in Asia and all I see are the young coconuts, and they're everywhere :) just started reading up on SST, and I get questions but not finding the answers. I think it's because a lot of new growers just regurgitate what they hear with lack of understanding and terms get mixed up and lead to confusing people... Or it could be I don't have the time to do all the reading and research I want to have the understanding needed to weed out the bad and wrong info... Thank you all so much for clarifying things.


    http://forum.grasscity.com/indoor-grow-journals/1341205-solar-spec-1040-white-led-vs-mars-ii-2100.html#entry20859361
     
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  5. #47 waktoo, Nov 17, 2014
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2014
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  6. I am slowly wading my way through. Unfortunately I come to conclusions that need clarifying much faster than reading 20 pages to get one answer :)

    I would love to sit down and interview a few people (both who have been kind enough to post here and some who are absent) and do a q&a with what I think are good (and fundamental) questions that many new (and not so new) growers can learn from the quick and easy way BEFORE they learn through trial and error.



    http://forum.grasscity.com/indoor-grow-journals/1341205-solar-spec-1040-white-led-vs-mars-ii-2100.html#entry20859361
     
  7. Note: the blue cheese hasn't been looking so happy last couple weeks. I pulled her out and gave her a good watering. Watered from the top untill it ran out all the side holes. Then poured water into the drip pan and let it soak up. I refilled the drip pan letting it slowly drink all she wanted. Definately see an improvement today, and all 8 drip pans are dry.

    This also makes me think about watering... I've heard sub irrigation is where it's at. Look at how plants grow near a river. The roots always have water and nutrients to drink and not wait for rain. Ok in a "no till" setup, you mulch and top dress each season. Watering from the top takes the nutrients down into the soil just like natural rain falling on forest floors. BUT we grow in small buckets and usually let the soil dry up between watering. Why not water/feed from the bottom where all the roots are? We want roots to grow down and fill out containers. How else to make roots grow down other than give them water and nutrients at the bottom?
    Also why water, let dry, water, let dry... I wonder if smaller more frequent waterings would keep the moisture level more constant and lack of major fluctuations would be less stressful for the plants.

    Does my logic make sense or is it faulty? Input? Disagree? Agree? Discussions?



    http://forum.grasscity.com/indoor-grow-journals/1341205-solar-spec-1040-white-led-vs-mars-ii-2100.html#entry20859361
     
  8. DDP, the wet to dry cycle has become its own monster. Constant moisture is a key to healthy growth. Now given that, there is a certain range of soil moisture that can be considered running wet to dry. Your soil can only hold so much water (field capacity) consider this 10 on our scale with dry (cannot support plant growth) 0. The optimal range is 4-7 for our beloved.
     
    I was attracted to the sub irrigation due to the lack of parts.  I try to keep my pots in that 4-7 range. The one issue with sub irrigation I've found is the major saturation at the bottom of the pots, easily handled by feeling the bottom of the pots and backing off the res watering. Feeling the pots also helps when applying SST's. I let them loose moisture then fill them up. All the tea is absorbed in the soil no run off into the res. <-VERY IMPORTANT.
     
    However you get there, the 4-7 range is the "wet/dry" cycle you should shoot for. I top water all my veg plants with small frequent waterings.
     
    HTH
     
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  9. For myself personally I do the knuckle deep thing to tell how moist my soil is and if I need to fill my Rez. Being as tho my one girl is in a 32 gal no till tote lifting hr is outta the question!!
    I like to feel a slight anout if moisture in my finger, if she is just a little dry I will top water to keep the upper level moist also. On the subject if enzyme teas and fulvic feedings, I've been doing it for about a year now on the fulvic and just a short month on the enzyme teas. The enzyme teas are nothing short if a miracle!! If you can source any just give it a shit an see. The fulvic acid I have used once a week during top watering at 10ml/g regularly , I have upped the dosage before to 20 ml/g without any adverse effect or improvement so I just stay with the lower dosage. No till is a great way to go if you ask me an nothing replicates Mother Nature better IMO. Hope that helps some I you have any questions I would try to answer to the best I my ability but I'm a noOb and can only give answers to what I'm experienced in.
     
  10. "Also why water, let dry, water, let dry... I wonder if smaller more frequent waterings would keep the moisture level more constant and lack of major fluctuations would be less stressful for the plants."

    You've got it. Just like Ficky said, constant, steady hydration is important in an organic garden. Now, you don't want to overwater either but this is where making sure that your soil is properly aerated comes into play when you initially build your soil. With sufficient aeration added to the mix there's no way to overwater - it is impossible to do so.

    There's no reason you need to allow a soil to dry out; in fact, IMO it's harmful to the very fine root hairs on our plants. Consistent, even moisture is key. Mulch helps the surface from drying out too.

    Not wet - just moist.

    J

    J
     
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  11. #53 over dere, Nov 22, 2014
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2014
    There's a reason that plants grow larger and healthier closer to a river or lake. At least that's how it works in Oregon...
     
    [​IMG]
     
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  12. I think if more people understood the xylem and how it works to transport water and nutrients(read: Cohesion-Tension Model), this idea of letting the soil dry out would die away.
     
    I'd imagine the xylem to be like a straw sucking out the last dregs of a soda cup if you let the soil dry out.
     
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  13.  
    You can read till the cows come home and hopefully get pointed in the right direction, but, the fact of the matter is, there is no quick and easy way WITHOUT the trial and error.
     
    Growing (anything), is very much like cooking. Books and vids and Q&A helps tremendously, but both are a skill set that has to be developed mostly through trial and error and experience.
     
    Observation is very important and you seem to be paying attention. It goes far.
     
    Wet
     
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  14. sadly I agree with you, no teacher like experience. I just find it annoying that I look for pearls of wisdoms yet got led astray by cyber thinking... Oh well.
    Thank you


    http://forum.grasscity.com/indoor-grow-journals/1341205-solar-spec-1040-white-led-vs-mars-ii-2100.html#entry20859361
     
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  15. do you like them lol
     
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