Dwc first grow in closet, white looking stuff on tubing and film on bottom on reservoir

Discussion in 'Hydroponic Growing' started by hydrogrow420, Oct 13, 2014.

  1. I'm a not a dude lol
     
  2. Lol sorry, try re asking your question in the beginner forum, i myself have to go there sometimes , it takes time to learn, no one here is as expert as they think (myself included) or they wouldn't be here asking questions in the first place, here are some videos that helped me get started along with all help here on GC.

    Indoor Cannabis Cultivation - An Introduction: http://youtu.be/Lpw9kGsSOPU

    Jorge Cervantes - Ultimate Grow DVD 1: http://youtu.be/vRsrXFahsVs

    High Times: Read! Set! Grow! II *420* How to grow…: http://youtu.be/dLC_PysiWQk


    Sea Of Green Hydroponic Cultivation: http://youtu.be/Xo_rnEAb2Gc


    you can grow marijuana without checking PH or nutrient strength, and if your lucky they may well survive, but they won't thrive. the law of entropy dictates that you just won't get the conditions perfect and you will lose out on a lot more bud than $20 worth. If I were you the next time you get 20 bones spend it on the meters, without a nutrient strength meter you can never work out what nutrient strength the plant requires
     
  3. Thank you for all of your advice.
     
  4. 60% humidity invites mold.

    First signs of mold taking root in plants is spots on the leaves.
     
  5. What are some ways to get the humidity down?
     
  6. My humidity was at 60 when I woke up this morning.I think it was only because I left my window in my room open when I slept. It usually stays around 40%
     
  7. #27 rain dancer, Oct 14, 2014
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2014
    A few ways are to increase heat, which i dont recommend, or a dehumidifier or increase the air circulation, ie, turnover of air in the room, you want new air to be circulating at all times.

    I also recommend that you keep a fan circulating at all times with high humidity, as it makes it difficult for mold spores to take hold on plant surfaces.

    40% is fine, anything above 60% slows growth to a crawl and invites fungus. If its only happened once, then it probably was the window.
     
  8. #28 SiRbUdZaLot84, Oct 14, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 14, 2014
    Follow what Pokesmot said about humidity. He's right on the money with that info. Also, you absolutely NEED to test your PH. That is a MUST in hydro. If your nutrient solution isn't between 5.5-5.8 for your dwc system your plants will lock out certain nutrients it needs to strive. Soil solutions can be ran a little higher in the ph range because the soil acts as a buffer. Testing the EC or PPMS isn't as important in my opinion. I ran a recirculating system without ever testing the EC or ppms and it turned out amazing but I followed the feeding schedule to the "T". You also need fans recirculating air in the room. The idea is to recreate outdoor conditions as close as possible and wind is one of the elements you need. Another tip I use for hydro is mix a low concentration of hydrogen peroxide in your reservoir to keep it sterile and clean. It will fight off algae and it also provides extra oxygen to your plants roots so they'll love it! Google "hydrogen peroxide for dwc hydro system" for the right mixture of hydrogen peroxide and water.

    2000w Sensi Seed Super Skunk Coco Grow Journal:
    http://forum.grasscity.com/indoor-grow-journals/1187623-sensi-seeds-super-skunk-coco-grow.html
     
  9. I check my ph using the liquid ph kit thing. And I have been using peroxide, I actually ran out like 2 weeks ago and i noticed a difference. How often do you completely change out the water in your reservoir? Do u just top off your reservoir with nuted water?
     
  10. 1/2 cup of peroxide for 1 gallon of.water is what I have been doing. It's what I read off Google.
     
  11. #31 SiRbUdZaLot84, Oct 14, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 14, 2014
    Invest in a digital PH meter. Trust me! The liquid kits are for pools and they are not nearly enough accurate for what you're doing. Cannabis plants are very sensitive to ph so you want to be right on it when it comes to the ph range. I always ran my system exactly at 5.8 and I never had a single problem with deficiencies. Hydrogen peroxide works great so I'm glad you're using it and seeing the results :)

    2000w Sensi Seed Super Skunk Coco Grow Journal:
    http://forum.grasscity.com/indoor-grow-journals/1187623-sensi-seeds-super-skunk-coco-grow.html
     
  12. #32 SiRbUdZaLot84, Oct 14, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 14, 2014
    I change out the reservoir completely once per week. Always top off with plain ph'd water throughout the week as well to keep it topped off. What happens is the plants absorb more of certain nutrients so if you top off the res with nutes, you'll keep adding nutes it doesn't need more of, not to mention you'll keep increasing your ppms. You should only have to mix nutes once per week when changing out the res. The rest of the week just plain ph'd water. :)

    2000w Sensi Seed Super Skunk Coco Grow Journal:
    http://forum.grasscity.com/indoor-grow-journals/1187623-sensi-seeds-super-skunk-coco-grow.html
     
  13. Thank you so so so much =)
     
  14. #34 SiRbUdZaLot84, Oct 14, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 14, 2014
    No problem hydrogrow. I learned just about everything I know from some of the people here on GC that took the time to educate me so I'm here to return the favor. Message me anytime. I'll be more than glad to help you out :)
     
  15. Don't listen to them. You obviously have a male plant and that is sperm. Lol jk
     
  16. Lmao sade hahaha.
     
  17. The information you gave back then was false. The white stuff on the hoses wasn't salt buildup. Clearly the lines closest to the reservoir netpot openings were the worst infected. This was clearly an algea outbreak because of light leaks. White algea is really horrific and even grows with the least amounts of light
     

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