Help me purge this and try and save it

Discussion in 'Concentrate Tools' started by tHatokaHscHamp, Sep 28, 2014.

  1. This is what I'm purging on the griddle right now been about 30 mins at roughly 150 at this point this is a.experiment to see if I can get the nasty shit trapped out Jimmy I'm hoping you'll know sense you got yer shit right thanks
     

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  2. My telekinetic powers aren't strong enough


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  3. Well my experience isn't as good as some other people on here but for the to get you started, you need to put some heat on it, try to keep it under 100F and it takes a while man so be patient.

    Some one will come and correct me if I'm wrong eventually.

    The higher your temps go the more you kill the terps so low and slow wins the race IMO.




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  4. #4 ckybam69, Sep 28, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 28, 2014
    I've done this plenty of times and in all honesty u need to get it a tad hotter or wait longer. (ur going to loose some terps no matter what so I would just go hotter). Also are u spreading it out as much as possible?

    Purging is all about spreading it across a large surface area at the right heat so the butane can escape.


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    You will know your Doing it right when u see big air bubbles that pop on their own.
     
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  5. Low and slow.  100 for like 72 hrs will give you some nice stuff.
     
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  6. Update not worth saving so in the trash she went due to poor oil in my area (not as bad as some.stuff I see.on ig but I'm not looking to go full retard on tane) I'm getting a drysift kit for now it's solvent less all the way until people's tech gets out the stone age
     
  7. 150 was too hot probably did more bad than good....


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  8. #8 ShatterWulf, Nov 10, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 10, 2014
    You need to be purging at at least 100F. Any lower than 100 (even with a van oven) and you will definitely be leaving pentane and other pentane isomers in your oil. If I'm not using a vac I like to use around 130, since you don't really start hitting the boiling point of your most volatile terps until around 150F.
     
  9. Butane's boiling point is far below 100 degrees F. If you spread it thin and increase the surface area 90-100 degrees should be plenty.


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  10. #10 ShatterWulf, Nov 10, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 10, 2014
    I'm not taking about butane, there is pentane in every single can of butane on the market, and in most industrial gas, it's boiling point is around 97F, so regardless of where your butane comes from you need to be purging higher than that so you remove the pentane and isopentane.
     
  11. #11 YoShytsWeak, Nov 11, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 11, 2014
    Not 100% sure but I'm pretty sure with a vacuum chamber and a heat source you can lower the boiling point of both those chemicals.


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  12. #12 ShatterWulf, Nov 11, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 11, 2014
    The most quantifiable evidence I've found is what happened at one of the California Secret Cup competitions this year is that everyone making shatter who ran their vac oven under 90F failed Steep Hill's solvent screen for various pentane isomers. There were people with ~10ppm total butane (including isobutane) with like 500+ppm each of isopentane, n-pentane, and neopentane. Discussion about pentane isomers was 90% of the total discussion at the Concentrate Panel at the Cannabis Cup in Denver this year. I would think you'd want at least 100 without a vac to be sure.
     
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  13. Can't argue with ya till I research it. tho I thank you because this will push me to learn more lol

    I'm glad your no taking what I'm saying as hate. Thanks for explaining that.


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  14. I've also read that they put some kind of lubricating oil into the spray cans of butane that does not purge out at the same temps as the various 'tanes…and that's why it's really important to use clean butane…I think the commercial name is N-tane or something.
     
  15. #15 ShatterWulf, Nov 11, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 11, 2014
     
    There's mineral oil in every can of butane on the market (some more than others), even the vast majority of industrial suppliers have small amounts of "mystery oil" in them; it's a byproduct of the process of manufacturing the cans/bottles themselves and cannot be 100% avoided without distilling your butane beforehand, which is pretty simple if you have a closed loop system, but the mineral oil cannot be purged out since it's boiling point is 300F.
     
    You can buy any mix of gas you want from an industrial supplier, I know some people who actually order a mix that has the same n-butane, isobutane, and propane as their favorite brand of cans, but the most common gas used (and my personal preference) lies with n-butane.
     
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