I want a pro to explain in simple terms the best ppm for growing kush in biker bucket setup hydro systems. Can you please break it up into grow and flower cycles please. And if you could include the flush as well.
What nutes are u using ?? I'm no pro but check my grow out in the aero section only their cuz I'm using an Aaerogarden it's really a DWC system Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
"Best PPM" is sort of like asking "What's the best car?" PPM actually has little to do with the overall performance of your plant's growth. As long as you have an adequate amount of nutrients mixed into the water, the plant will only use up what it needs. It will use more, as photosynthesis is increased, and even then, the increase is minimal. This is a more advanced topic, so I'm attempting to simplify for the sake of keeping it short and to the point. That said, the particular genetics of your plant have little to do with the overall amount of nutrients that you should mix into your water, too. Finally, in hydroponics, an ideal range for PPM under normal circumstances is about 700-1200. Be sure your pH is within range (about 5.8) and not warmer than 70F, if you're roots are submerged under the nutrient water full time. I keep my PPM pretty uniform between veg and bloom, so as not to upset the flow of nutrients, due to osmotic pressure. Bloom will use more nutrients than veg, but this doesn't mean you need to add more nutrients. If you're around 1200PPM, there's really no reason to add more than that, unless you have a completely dialed environment where you can push some limits - very advanced methods. Flushing is dead simple, you should flush with 0 PPM (but always pHd!). Eventually your flushing water will have some sign of dissolved solids, at that point, you need to dump it, and flush again with zero PPM water Note: Too little nutrient in the water, and your plant won't grow as quickly as you hope. Too much nutrient in the water will throw off the osmotic pressure in the plant, and prevent it from uptaking nutrients causing the end tips of your leaves to turn yellow/brown and dry up. If you see this, you must dilute your solution immediately (this will only start showing after 2-3 days, so you should correct it quickly!) Knowing this, you can experiment by adding 1-200 PPM per day until you see nutrient burn on the leaf tips. At this point, you'll know the max nutrient load your plant can handle based on the current environmental conditions. Here's a very simple reference for you. http://originalpast420.com/original_pasts_cannabis_growing_method/hydroponic-cannabis-growing-rules/ I hope that's helpful for you. I also recommend reading about "Lucas Formula" You will learn so much! Cheers, Past
To put it as simple as I can would be to say that the plant will take up a ppm of its own preference. This ppm will change as it grows. Up to a point and it then plateaus. Then once flower is induced the ppm rises for a few weeks, and then steadily drops until it's almost taking up empty water by harvest time. To get the fastest uptake speeds you must match the reservoir's ppm to what the plant is taking up at any given time. So this means you will have to continually change the ppm. To measure what the plant is taking up you must first take a reading of the reservoir's ppm, wait 24 hours and take another reading. If the figure has gone up it means the plant is taking up a ppm that is less than what is in the reservoir. If the figure has gone down it means the plant is taking up a ppm that is more than what is in the reservoir.