hey everyone, I don't post on gs anymore but I figured throwing this question out there couldn't hurt. Of course everything I'm doing is legal under california's prop 215. so just pulled light dep 40 plants (20x20 with three cards) completely organic only yielded avg of 1/2lb a plant and they could have been 3/4th or fulls if i could just add on some more bulk. below is a pic of must nutes used. i do topdressing week 2-6 of flower worm castings, depending on week (2-4) crab chitin, (4-6) switch it up with bat guano, rock phosphates/mag rock, alfalfa meal after week 5, little other stuff. then i make a 100gal compost tea every third watering brew 4-6 hrs- i mix up teas too depending on stage of flower but mainly teas go like, cup of worm casting, cup of vermifire, cup of compost, liquid kelp, powdered molasses with ciliated silica, beneficial bacteria (use og tea bacteria a lot), some humic acid, sometimes add some other stuff in teas too (alfalfa at end). Then for normal watering started using vegamatrix organic nutes but not till like week 6 and not enough cause didnt have the 5 gal of flower. anyway full season about to flower, same setup as dep 40 plants 30 gals 20x20; planning to do everything the same except use a 5gal of vegamatrix flower instead of 1gal lol all dep stuff came out looking like A+ indoor @ 2200 just not the weight. So any tips to add on the weight continuing completely organic?
I see a lot of bottles.... Looks like our ideas of "completely organic" may differ from one another...... But I didn't see you list Kelp meal. That's a biggie. (not the same as liquid kelp)
snoop you obviously don't know what vegamatrix is- completely organic look it up. just because it's in a bottle doesn't make it inorganic. liquid ciliated silica is organic, liquid silica by dynogrow tek-grow say's it's organic but its not-anything not ciliated is non-organic as its salts will kill beneficial bacteria. none of the bottles there kill bacteria. that picture is also only 70% of what we used. we use liquid and powdered kelp, liquid in tea, powder in top dressing, both are organic not messed with in a lab. again picture is not full representation. and again look up vegamatrix before you say its not organic, wait here's a link for you. lastly, asking for what will boost yield without killing/harming beneficial bacteria and mycorrhizae. http://www.purelifeveganix.com/
Your doing what's called soup style organics totally fine but you would do much better cycling all those top dressed amendments into the soil months before planting so they are actually able to use them. Takes time for the microbiology to break down organic matter into plant useable form. You can't force feed a plant and make it do better have to give it a well built balanced soil, along with proper air, light, and water and the rest is up to the genetics..... just my two cents
My chickens and turkeys spent the winter in my garden, that is organic. Doing real good too. Lots of chicken coop bedding in the compost too. Worms, fowl and organic matter like leaves and straw, rain... I make some decent plant food the old fashioned way.
Its not 100% organic and that to me is a definite no no..... Vegamatrix Bloom is derived from over 95% natural ingredients. Clean crops are essential to people and our planet. Extensive testing created this blend of organic materials, naturally mined minerals, and just a touch of synthetic minerals to provide explosive growth. If clean crops were truly their goal and wanted to protect our planet they wouldn't add any synthetics and not sell products in plastic bottles. Smh....things people do without regard to our home just to make a buck
That's the only way....I'm moving to Humboldt in two weeks going to be taking care of horses, lots of fowl, building a large production worm bin to process all my waste into a beautiful black gold and tending to my medicinal crops uhauling my plants there to finish them out. Should purple up nice, so much cooler there from down here where I'm at now.
so you think super soil is the way to go and not top dress? You're totally right about it not all being broken down in time to be used. I was thinking of cooking all this soil for next year?
That would be your best bet, get it all built and cooking over the winter then by late spring early summer your more then ready to go with a properly cycled mix
Thanks man, been a long time coming worked four solid years out here to get to this point and be able to go where I've always wanted to be in Cali, and have the perfect spot to be self sufficient and enjoy the outdoors. Were not too far from the coast too and I definitely miss the beach....
I can't decipher this. Are you growing inside or outside? If inside I suggest adding more light sources and additional CO2. That's speaks for itself. If outside give it everything you've got but ensure you have adequate K, Ca, and Su. N speaks for itself, P is what P is. If you're planting straight into the native soil with a peat based mixed added your micro nutes may or may not be adequate. Depends on the root system. As was mentioned kelp is a great addition for a lot of reasons not the least of which is a great source of K. Besides "light" and CO2 (in tandem), nutrients, genetics, not much else you can do.
Why not cut overhead costs dramatically and create a more sustainable, efficient system utilizing a well managed, healthy, living soil? No need to rely on expensive bottled gimmicks like the whole veganic thing. Unsustainable and impractical for larger grows, especially when you can source what he's putting into the bottle yourself for much less than they charge. I'm kind of curious as to how long the PGR and PGH compounds found within kelp stay whole while suspended in a bottle of water...need to brush up on some chemistry. Best advice I can offer is to just get yourself some kelp meal (ascophyllum nodosum) and I'd also suggest to build a worm bin with a compost pile or source to keep up on the foodstock. Nothing beats a nice 48 hour kelp/alfalfa soak applied onto the plants via foliar application or a topdress of vermicompost.
You can also switch to vertical lighting and grow them as tall as they can get within your head room.
That emerald island (iirc) grow was fucking epic Possuum. I still can't get that thing outta my head.
I guess that for a cash cropper, bigger / more buds is the end all. For the discriminating connoisseur, better buds FTW! Somewhere along the line the lines have gotten blurred that bigger = better.
Well now tsk tsk Chunko. For me it's about how much smoko I can fit in a 5 gallon bucket or three. And how much smoko can be grown in a cubic foot. I'm getting ready to get geared up again and my new inventionacion really fills the gap...so-to-speak Think a Sonoma valley grape grower feels the same way lol?