Happy 420 no tillers! ~Ronin http://forum.grasscity.com/organic-grow-journals/1351737-fresh-ronins-paradise.html
Danks for the 420 reorientation TD. Its nice to know that not everyone in America considers themselves a capitalist. CC you have helped so many patients, plants and gardens grow so much my friend! Mj's patient and kind myth/bottle buster. Cheers Coot thanks for continually reminding us that nature does it right! Man trys to make a buck, nature shares and doesn't have a concept of waste, nor ads IN her threads.
Hi yall....happy bicycle day and 420 day a bit late, That was fun.......I am 4 weeks into flower in some 25 gallon first run no till deal. I made the soil and so I know there is plenty of goods for my plants. Yet a couple of them are yellowing at an alarming rate. All the others look great. Shall I just wait and see what happens? Or is there some fix?
My temp runs around 77 in the light and around 74 in the dark humidity is between 40 and 50%.They get about a gallon every other day sometimes 1 1/2 gallons. The yellowing is on the fan leaves on 2 plants. All the rest have the typical lower leaves dieing off but no alarm there. I have not yet figured out how to post pictures. Cheers
Happy belated 420 everybody 👠But here's a question i have yet to come upon on this thread, sure it's here somewhere but i'm still reading through it all, but what is a main ingredient or component in your no-till soil that regulates the pH perfectly? Ive see so many people talk about how it does it but havent seen what makes it get regulated. Is it one main thing in the soil mixture or a bunch of different things? And ive seen friends who are 50% organic and they have to pH.. So what makes you have to pH and what makes you not have to pH?
2nd box of worms added, first was all dead, these looked alive but in 24 hrs. smells like dead worms again, SHOULD I DIG OUT THE DEAD WORMS? SIP method > does this work with small plants in a 15 gal, geo bag? it seems that using a SIP would make the soil very wet, HOw do i get the optimum level of water?
Biology. You make a living soil and put a plant in it. Let the SFW worry about the rest. Your buddies who are half organic are soluble feeding either way. "Organic is like pregnant you either are or aren't" IMO. pH matters when you are (force)feeding a plant via soluble ions. pH need not apply in living soil. Focus on quality humus building with all the time you save... The NPK mindset makes you have to pH, and calibrate, and recheck and calibrate… litmus paper was $10 a roll when I quit.
I ran into the same thing and I feel it is largely related to watering needs. May want to run a bed of perlite and use a smartpot, self regulates the water intake as long as the perlite stays wet. I also started giving a neem/kelp/alfalfa tea at the beginning of yellow when it did happen (some not all) and it seems to go right away. HTH
Ok thanks for all of the answers guys that helped a lot with helping me to understand that whole process. Here's another question i haven't seen yet, How do you guys cook your soil inside, light or no light, keep it moist or just the top layer moist? Do you cook it any longer since you're inside? I don't want to cook it outside due to my fear of bringing in harmful pests from outdoor to my indoors. So any helpful tips or ideas? And since i'm having trouble finding a local source of QUALITY ORGANIC compost in lower mich, i'm going to have to try plan B and get a bagged compost. What is a premium yet affordable and good quality organic compost that i can buy online or in a grow store (if they carry it)? I don't need a whole lot, just enough to mix soil for 8 7gal smartys for my no-till. I don't want bugs or cheap quality so i'm not sure where i should get it exactly. I would love to make my own compost/humus but i don't know to much about it or the process and don't have the time for the compost at least for this cycle, but next cycle is a whole different story i'll have to start doing some research on composting and making quality humus for later down the road. But until then i need a good quality source of organic humus/compost for my no-till's that will be starting in a month or soo. Thanks for the help anyone, knowledge is power!!
Liming agents, along with the microbial activity that liberates the carbonates contained within, serve to regulate rapid pH fluctuations in the soil solution. Due to the fact that soil pH is dynamic and is never, ever stable, pH is never "perfect". Soil Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) also helps to remove excess hydrogen from the soil solution. Hydroponic chemistry and soil chemistry are not the same. Lack of understanding of both systems is what drives "having to pH".... Where did you learn this? Carbonates derived from "lime" react with free hydrogen in solution, creating CO[SUB]2 [/SUB]and H[SUB]2[/SUB]O. Free hydrogen is thereby effectively removed from the soil solution, which helps to raise pH. If anything plants lower the pH of the soil solution through the process of nutrient ion exchange. Being that the majority of nutrient ions are positively charged, hydrogen ions are exchanged for those cationic nutrients, thus resulting in a net change that lowers the pH of the soil solution over time. Plants certainly affect pH, but they do not regulate it...
Are you able to source Coast of Maine products in your area? Or Worm Power vermicompost? Those are both east coast companies. You'll have better luck finding quality materials sourcing from garden centers/nurseries, as opposed to grow stores/hydro shops...
Oops quoted the wrong question. Thought it was the yellowing question- sorry for any confusion, lol. Not even baked (prob the prob). Hahha
"Cooking" is just another word for composting. All mixes require different amounts of time for this process pretty much, depending on what's in them that needs to be broken down. "Heavy" mixes like super soil (blood meal, guano, etc) require a good 4 weeks to finish. Lighter mixes like the CC kit only require about a week to 10 days to become available. I used to have similar issues with sourcing compost, humus would always be my main expense for soil mixes because I wasn't good at sourcing it locally (and I don't have the space to make my own). It depends where you're located, but usually there's some really good stuff if you look hard enough. I had Coast of Maine lobster compost less than 5 minutes away from me... at some nursery that I've never even heard of before. They were right across the street from my old nursery too... go figure! I'm able to pick up cubic foot bags for $8 now. Pretty much all high quality compost brands will sell their stuff for around $8 for a cubic foot (7.5 gal). This adds up if you're building a large amount of soil, but for your scenario it should do just fine. Check out the Malibu, Oly Mtn, Coast of Maine, and Worm Power websites and click the tab that says "Where to find our products" (or something along those lines). It'll map out their carriers for you, and you may be pleasantly surprised like I was. Good luck!
I agree - Plus, I would highly suggest staying far away from hydro shops in states where laws haven't passed yet. They like to set up deals with local LEO that involve wire tapping the store and all that good stuff. There was a new guy at one of the shops I used to go to one day, and he couldn't tell the difference between inoculant and cloning powder at the time. That was my first red flag. He shouted while he talked, and insisted on helping me carry soil out to my car. 2 more red flags. He looked at my plate about 3 times during his "kind deed", and a month afterwards my place was staked out for a good 30 days. I walked up to knock on their window one day, and before I got the chance they took off on me. American make too, so I knew it was indeed Leo. Once they realized I wasn't dealing they backed off, but it could've still gone south pretty fast if they were bored enough. You'll notice these shops are conveniently located right behind (or near) police stations too. Good stuff. Great people.