random car talk

Discussion in 'Planes, Trains & Automobiles' started by docleary, Feb 13, 2014.

  1. #881 NorthernAutos, Jan 26, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 26, 2015
    Weather smartened up and I got the wastegate in finally. Went on an hour or so cruise and wow I missed my car haha beat on a C/I/E/Tuned 4.6 mustang, a bolt on/tuned turbo cobalt, and my buddies gt28 GTI-R who would walk me last year. I guess that's what happens when you turn the boost up 10psi :D


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  2. #882 DBV, Jan 28, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 28, 2015
    So I'm currently working on a design for a divided merge collector for my 1jz vvti, and it got me to thinking of ways to use a larger turbo, but also still reduce lag time... I wanted to run my ideas by you guys to see if you see any issues I'm not seeing with my ideas.
     
    So the thought process is that once you enlarge your flange size and air ratio on the impellar side of your turbo, it then takes more time for your exhaust to build the velocity required to boost the compressor on your turbo. So now I'm trying to think of a way to boost this velocity flow in order to quicken spool time.. The first thing that comes to my mind is essentially a "chinese finger trap" mounted in the header.
     
    If I were to be able to program this in any amount of ways (ideally tuneable), do you think it is possible to create a header that at the merge collector, uses something that at lower rpms "shrinks" and causes the velocity to increase, and then retracts into the turbos normal Air ratio size at a set rpm or air flow? I'm thinking I would have to make a turbo impellar side that does the same thing (shrinks/expands dependant on rpm range and/or air flow) set to the same tuneable program so that the flow is consistent and minimizes backpressure, but I'm just wondering how feasible this idea is? Any thoughts or ideas are welcome!
     
    My other thoughts on a header design is to use a divided twin spool flange, and then use ports 5, 4 & 3 to use as the shortest tubes to one side to keep backpressure/velocity as even as possible and quicken spool, and then have ports 1, 2 & 6 all equal length but would probably end up a bit longer.. what do you guys think of this plan? 
     
  3. Wish I could help, this is way beyond me lmao


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  4. How quick do you want it to spool? With today's technology you can match a turbo up that will spoon at a reasonable rpm and still return good power figures.
     
  5. I guess as early as possible.. lol. Just trying to think of ways to use larger turbos than normal to create higher power figures but still get earlier spool to avoid lag.  To be honest, I think my setup will be fine for me with what I have now, but more or less trying to engineer a design for a new header as a product.. I'm going to try to draw up what I'm thinking in my head tonight to see if it makes sense or is a reasonable/worthy idea to manufacture.
     
  6. Have you thought of a compound turbo setup?

    Allows small turbo to spoil up quick and the larger turbo gets fed by the smaller turbos' exhaust, and you get big boost. Creates a linear torque curve, which is mucho bueno considering twin turbos.

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1422483172.110507.jpg
     
  7. #887 DBV, Jan 28, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 29, 2015
    Very interesting but looks like it'd get pretty expensive.. that photo got me thinking though.  I like that they used essentially a 90 degree elbow adapter on the header.. maybe I could try my plan with just a riser that uses the concept to at least test it. I'm just afraid that the added length may defeat the purpose of playing with velocity..
     
    The paint drawing is rather crude, but the concept is that the ring at the top in the center of the flange would shrink and cause the velocity to increase at lower rpms and then expand at either a certain RPM range, or I could use something like a MAP sensor to adjust at certain air pressure levels.. It would be cool if it were tuneable as well, just afraid of what to use as a sensor as you wouldn't want any plastic etc. near the adapter... Is this even worth trying or is there anything out there like this that I haven't seen?
     

    Attached Files:

  8. #889 DBV, Jan 29, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 30, 2015
    Interesting read I found:

    Venturi effect on pre-turbine exhaust gasses. (De Lavel Nozzle)

    For anyone interested... seems the verdict is still out in this discussion though.

    Edit:

    Also found this link that essentially does the same thing I am looking to do in a nut-shell.. May not be worth the effort after all if I can just purchase this quick-spool valve! lol. Although I do still see a benefit to my setup as it wouldn't cause as much turbulence, back pressure and "choking". May be only one way to find out...

    Semi-sequential Single turbo valve

    [​IMG]
     
  9. There's so much goin on with exhaust gas velocities, and reading on Venturi effect is a great thing to do if you want to know more about your build, other then the names I the parts. Tuning exhaust manifolds for turbos is tricky. Have to have equal length, IMHO, just makes the turbo spool smooth as butter, and I don't like pulsing exhaust.
     
  10. #893 invinciblejets, Jan 31, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 31, 2015
    Forgot who's got the z31 but you should do somthing like this maybe turn the boso touchs down a bit tho lol

    When the fitment is right on these they look great and those jdm taillights😋

    ImageUploadedByGrasscity Forum1422710110.894503.jpg


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  11. I bought a nice paint gun and random orbit sander. I'm planing on doing a flat black rustoleum paint job within the next week on my f150.
    Anyone have any tips?
     
  12. #895 ImTheJoker4u2, Jan 31, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 31, 2015
    Prep, prep, prep, and then prep some more lol.
    Painting is 98% prep, 2% spray....Really.
    Flat paint is a little more forgiving than gloss or metallic, but it still needs to be done correctly.
     
    Step 1) Remove all lights, trim, emblems, drip rails, ect. (Two beer/one joint job)
    Step 1.a) CAREFULLY mask vehicle. If you DON'T want it painted - MASK IT (2 beer/half joint)
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zIEVuQZ_qM
    Step 2) Rough Sand vehicle to create a surface for everything to stick to. (One beer job)
    Step 3) Use filler to even out any low points, and a hammer/dolly to pound in any high points. You can get a set of automotive body hammers at Harbor Freight for ~$30 IIRC ****DO NOT TRY TO USE YO' DADDYS CARPENTERS CLAW HAMMER**** (2-4 Beer job/1 Joint, depending on vehicle)
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JLKAyrgdLL8
    Step 3.a) Let filler dry (2-3 Beer job)
    Step 4) Sand down the filler smooth, check, then double check, then triple check that everything is smooth and flat. On a your truck, you'll be using the long block sander A LOT. By the time you're done you should be using 1000 grit or better. You want it as smooth as possible. Any high/low points, or large scratches will show through your final paint job. (2-3beer/1-2 joint, even a good few bong rips job)
    Step 5) Using compressed air, blow off all the dust - Preferably outside so as to not further contaminate the paint area. (>1 Beer job)
    Step 6) CLEAN EVERYTHING. Use tack towels and a good prep cleaner. (Finish your beer)
    Step 7) CLEAN IT AGAIN (1 Beer job)
    Step 8) Get ready to spray (Roll one up - Maybe rip a tube) Make sure YOU'RE CLEAN too. Disposable paint suits are cheap (>$20) - GET ONE (1 Beer job)
    Step 9) Spray your primer. You want a good thick coat, so you're probably going to want to hit it a few times. Remember to give it a few minutes between coats to tack up. (1-2 Beers/1 Joint job)
    Step 10) Let it dry (4-6 Beers/2 Joints job)
    Step 11) Sand that mutha down one more time. You should be using like 1500-2000 WET sandpaper (2 Beer/1 joint job)
    Step 12) CLEAN IT AGAIN (1 Beer job)
    Step 12.a) CELEBRATE - WE'RE GONNA PAINT!!!!! :yay: :metal: :hello:
    Step 13) Paint the thing (1-2 Beer job)
    Step 13.a) Clean your tools when you're done. Let it dry (2-3 beer Job)
    Step 14) Wet sand it again (2 Beer/1 joint job)
    Step 15) Repeat Steps 13-14 as many times as you like to achieve the finish you're looking for
    Step 16) Let it dry for 10-18 hours
    Step 17) Buff the living hell out of it (2-3 Beer/1-2 joint job)
    Step 18) Peel it open like its fucking christmas (>1 beer job)
    Step 19) Reassemble your lights/trim/emblems
    Step 20) Step back and admire the flawlessness that you have created with your own two hands. :smoke:
     
    Start to finish its about a 20 hour job, depending on how many coats. Figure at least two hours per coat.
    Now you know why a paint job costs so much, and why a show quality paint job costs a small fortune.
     
    Its a LOT of work, and a lot of time, but once you're done, you'll impress yourself ;)
     
  13. I'd love to know how it goes lots of people have had great results with rustoleum...

    Like he^ said prep big time clean everything especially with a soft paint like rustoleum.


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  14. ImageUploadedByGrasscity Forum1422725285.698084.jpg


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  15. For fuck sakes got a ticket for 57 in a 35 im dumb at least he didn't smell the flowers lol clown



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  16. fight, appeal, fight, appeal...9 times out of ten they'll just drop it :smoking:
     
  17. #900 cannabisdayzzzd, Feb 1, 2015
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2015
    Thanks a lot for all the info. What grit paper do you recommend starting with?

    Also where do you get the very fine sand paper from. Home Depot only has up to 400 grit. I'm also having a hard time finding fine grit sand paper for the random orbit sander.


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