shaping my clones direcly on the mother plant

Discussion in 'Advanced Growing Techniques' started by Lacrovsky, Dec 4, 2013.

  1. Hi, i think im in the right place to post this link. After reading on the net and watching some vids about cloning.... i noticed that most of them were title 100 % succes rate. I dont have problem cloning, i cloned twice ( yes im beginer) and got like 95 % rate. For me it means : You're not pushing it.
     
    I grow outdoor so i have the whole winter to experiment and tweak up my clones. I grow in a cold/humid climate so i want my clones to be as strong and healty as possible when i throw them out ( around 1st june )
     
    I plan on using the mainlinning technic (creat a manifold with the main stem). That mean topping the plant, and low stress trainning on the clone in early stage. The problem here, is that it stunt the clone from growing.
     
    So i was wondering if i could, toped my mother plant where i intend to take clones.( 2 sprout will grow ) pinch these 2 new stem while they are still small,shape up my future clone to create the manifold and THEN, take my cuttings wich will have 4 to 6 head before it has even started growing. This way i wouldn have to stunt my babies at all and get some bushy girl.
     
    Please keep your comment on clonning, im looking for any tips on how can i improve cloning but not on %rate basis but how can i pimp up my clones. I prefer a 75% succes rate of monster clone then 100 % regular clones.
     
    Hope i made myself clear since english is not my main language, cant wait to see you re idea !!

     
  2. I wouldn't suggest it.  Clones that are too 'woody' do not root well.  Better off take the clone sooner and train it after it roots.  Pretty sure you'll get more growth that way too.
     
  3.  
    I agree, getting fast vigorous growth from a clone takes some luck and training it would slow it way down.
     
    Clones tend to be bushy things compared to an untrained seedling.
     
  4. #4 joe 60, Dec 7, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 7, 2013
     
    yeh its works done it few times myself
     
    top/cut a new shoot so there 3-4 close nodes together and then take the cutting as normal, the 3-4 tops will grow
    its easy to do and works 95% of the time
     
  5. Thanks for the reply guys. Obvioulsy, im gonna do some test and show you result later on, cause patriot and snoop think its not viable ... me and Joe think that is .... and joe said he tested it to with a good %.
     
    @[member="patriotfarmer"]: Yes, woody stems are not good for cloning, but i dont intend to wait that long. The time the mother plant will recover from the topping , wont make a woody stem. I'm pretty sure the cells will still be young and green and fresh. But maybe not.
     
    '' Pretty sure you'll get more growth that way too ''
    -I start vegetating state with 8X more shoots than a regular clone and i wont have to top it (so i wont stunt its grow). Lets say in a 2 month periods for the exemple, to get 8 shoot you ll have to top 2 times. I wont top at all durring this 2 month, since i did it on the motherplant, and ill get 8 shoot too. What make you think that you ll get more growth from a regular clone that you top twice(so stunted twice), than my topped clone that i wont stunt during that same 2 months. Can you please elaborate?
     
     
     
    @Snoopdogg: 1st i have to totaly desagre with you on the ''getting fast vigorous growth from a clone takes some luck ''. I never rely on luck here .... ladyluck is miles and miles away from the growroom. My post wasnt a beginner post named how to make clone. Making clone is easy when you know what youre doing. I dont have a lot of experience, but enought to be 100 % confident on my clone production. My goal here is to push it, i dont want a 100 % succes rating (well yes but...) ... i prefer a 60 % rates of monster clone...
     
    ''and training it would slow it way down.''
    - that s why i want to do the cutting on a healthy, full root, mother plant that can handle the stress of being cut and trained. Were not talking about a major training here ... simply split the 2 new growth from the toppings to create the manifold require for the main linning technic.
     
    ''Clones tend to be bushy things compared to an untrained seedling.''
    -Yes 100 % agree here .... so im a try and exploit that to the limit.
     
    @[member="patriotfarmer"] and snoopdogg : like i said my english is not 100 %, i dont mean to be arrogant or anything on my reply. i m seeking info thats all !! My english friends once told me that i speak like the terminator... me want this, me go there :p
     
     
    @[member="joe 60"]. Thanks for taking the time to share your XP with me. Do you still use that method? if no , can you tell us why ?
     
    Thanks again for answering my question.
     
  6. #6 joe 60, Dec 8, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 8, 2013
    just tried on a few clones a few times too see of it works, I don't use the method very often as I take cutting just before I put my plants in flower so trying to keep my plants small for 7 weeks (2 weeks to root and 7 weeks in veg) is not easy and I alway end up with 6-12 main shoots on each plant, so I don't need to do it, really I try loads of diffent things with the plants in veg over the years, just to gain more understanding of how a plant grows in veg, also tried a few diffent ways of clonning, just want too learn eveything I can about growing plants indoors in soil :)
     
  7. Noob here. I have seen clones produced from other types of plants by scraping the stem, applying rooting agent, and wrapping with something like petemoss. Plastic over the whole thing with a little hole to introduce water. Stem produces roots and cutting is taken and planted. Wondering if this would work...
     
  8. @[member="Lacrovsky"]
     
    IME a clone taken correctly once rooted will outgrow the same exact branch on the mother plant.  It has it's own root system vs. the mother plant that is supporting many other future clones.  Why not do a side by side?  Take a couple regular cuts the same day you begin 'shaping' your experimental cuts.  See what one outproduces the other by the time the 'shaped' clone roots.  
     
  9.  
    its called air layering. and not the same as OP is talking about. good idea though
    yup.
     
    by the time you shape your plant,you'll of used up enough time, that the spot you intended to cut will be woody and not viable for rooting.
     
    you'll be better served getting your cloning down pat( 2 times is far from that), and learning how to train properly.
     
    trust me, in the coming few grows you'll have tons of "Eureka moments"...but for the most part .. other stoners have had em already, and they proved futile .. or we'd be using those techniques already 
     
  10. For me growing clone for outside is different to grow room clones, for outside I want a clone that is about 500mm (18") tall, once the clone is established with it's own roots I place her under a warm red bulb(hps) to encourage vertical growth until about 500mm, when it comes to planting out, of that 500mm about a good 300mm(12") is placed in the hole, of which further roots will develop over the next few weeks, this gives the plant a good strong start in life,
     
    ....for me the first stage is just getting the cutting to root, the I groom her ....lolol
     
  11. I do the same with my outdoor ones. one thing you didn't mention Vostok is that when you bury them deep like this it makes them more resistant to drought later on in the summer.:D
    Mj

    from someplace on something
     
  12. True this was not mentioned, by me .. but when you think of it ...it is rather obvious ....No!
     
    a deeper plant gets the water, a taller plant gets the light, a thicker plant bends less in the spring winds, an adolescent plant attracts less bugs ...etc etc ....lol
     

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