Taken from elsewhere:
DIFFERENT TYPES OF ROOT APHIDS
Myzus Periscae, Aphis Fabae, Aphis Gossypi, Apaterae aka Bhang Aphid/Hemp Louse, and Hope Aphid (p.humuli) to name a few of them.
Heres what ive done so far.
I mixed neem with soap and a rose pesticide my wife had laying around as well ad captain jacks. I sprayed the entire plants and soaked the roots and left the plants tosit for 3 hours to dry. Put them back under the lights the next day.
No more crawlers after that.
The plants exploded with mature adult flyers.
I went ahead and treated with 2tsp per gallon of BAYER TREE AND SHRUB.
It has a higher concentration of imidicloprin. It also has a chemical called clothianidin. These chemicals are essentially nerve agents for insects and as mentioned, systemic. They have an incredibly long half life and will be taken up by plants.
Ive waited two days.
Since then my plants have perked up, however, I've lost 30 percent of my leaves. I pulled them off this morning.
To my dismay, the population of adult flying root aphids has quadrupled.
I added a fat layer of diatomaceous earth to the top layer and saw immediate results as the little flyers flipped, flopped and twisted around in what appeared to me to be a slow agony. I also watched last night as a few flyers turned in circles like the honey bees I've seen die locally after farmers used this toxic shit on our fields every year. They dumped 7 MILLION TONS of pesticides on us in central california last year. Cancer is a definite probability.
Im at a loss. Literally, figuratively, financially and now medically as well.
These were my best seeds and id saved them for years.
I ordered some pyrethrin off amazon. Expensive stuff for a tiny bottle. Waiting on that now but says it wont be here for a week.
I went ahead and mixed 4 ounces of Bayer tree and shrub with 2 ounces of bayer citrus/fruit per gallon, which is a ridiculous amount then set it aside, in the dark in milk containers as a final FUCK YOU to the root aphids should they defeat me in this war. That little pestinuke i mixed up is not to be used to save the plants, but literally wipe these bastards out before i bury this soil in The field next to my home.
Ive dealt with every kind of bug you can imagine so far in my gardening career and this is the first that has resisted all other forms of natural pesticides and even this current system pesticide. I was reading that it was responsible for a lot of human famines in the history of man.
I cant afford to start over. I was planning to call it quits on medicinal growing after this grow and if i continue to fail ill hang up my hat. Im placing the blame solely on FOX FARM OCEAN FORREST soil.
I added a mere handful of new ffof to my very old and sterilized soil when i was putting my grow together. It is winter here and the outside insects are not to be found, especially since it has been freezing here a lot lately. Im a sucker for cleanliness and there is no other way this contaminate could have made it into my soil. The ffof has been stored in a sealed container for almost two years. When i opened it up, the soil was fresh and still wet to my utter surprise (some of it has been stored away for years and years and i brought it back with microbial teas), when i removed it from storage. I should have sterilized it but i didnt. I wont buy any more fox farm ocean forrest. I thought for a long time that i had an isolated case, i also thought i was lucky and had beneficial mites. Google has shown me A LOT of people are getting this pest from fox farm cean forrest! Ive always defeated the fungus gnats with neem and have beaten every pest until now.....
I will probably kill these plants in the next few days if the bugs dont get them first.
My plan was to vegetate for another two months to allow them to come back before putting them into full flower. Not so sure anymore..
Edit: interesting fact
What is Imidacloprid used on?
Imidacloprid is a systemic, chloro-nicotinyl insecticide with soil, seed and foliar uses for the control of sucking insects including rice hoppers, aphids, thrips, whiteflies, termites, turf insects, soil insects and some beetles. It is most commonly used on rice, cereal, maize, potatoes, vegetables, sugar beets, fruit, cotton, hops and turf, and is especially systemic when used as a seed or soil treatment. The chemical works by interfering with the transmission of stimuli in the insect nervous system. Specifically, it causes a blockage in a type of neuronal pathway (nicotinergic) that is more abundant in insects than in warm-blooded animals (making the chemical selectively more toxic to insects than warm-blooded animals). This blockage leads to the accumulation of acetylcholine, an important neurotransmitter, resulting in the insect's paralysis, and eventually death. It is effective on contact and via stomach action (3).
SO unless youre growing all of the above foods. Youre eating it!
Edited by pokesmot247, 06 January 2014 - 08:43 PM.