What's good, kids? Any good stories to tell? I was in Bali a few weeks ago, but otherwise, it's flat as ever out there. By the time the cyclone season rocks up, I'll have left on my grand adventure through Asia. Hoping to see some wave action while I'm there (Cambodia, anyone?), but it won't be for a while as we're trekking through Japan and China first in mid-winter.
hey guys I've spent the summer learning how to surf, I'm a socal resident so I've been going to manhattan/hermosa a lot gotta say, surfing and dabs good shit ayy partybus
yewwww you are literally living the dream, jeez. Hopefully i'll meet you out there in the next couple of years, always wanted to surf Japan. Southern California has been pretty decent this year, hopefully we'll get some good south swells soon, might hop the border and hit Baja, Mex, next weekend. any updates? smartest dude in thread yeee buddy, welcome to GC lol. How was Sandy couple years back? Photos looked legendary
Dude, surfing is an unreal experience. Shred a wave and it gives you a natural high unlike anything else. I always say it's one of the craziest experiences because it feels like you're just comfortably gliding on this beautiful piece of artwork, while at the same time your barely escaping one natures most destructive forces. It's an awesome juxtaposition that changes your attitude towards everything if you really sit back and appreciate it. It's a practice and lifestyle of being one with nature. Can't beat it.
yewww! pretty sick that we have some surfers on this forum. i picked up surfing at a pretty young age since my father and the rest of my extended family is full of avid surfers. so i guess surfing is in my blood lol i live/surf in nj and we get blessed with really good (but cold) waves. the waves may not be as consistent as cali, but if you're in the right place at the right time you can find yourself sitting in barrels all day long.
Surfer from Santa Barbara, nice to get into other parts of the forum. Clay matzo is who I've been watching recently ... http://youtu.be/z9b57dGIdWQ
Literally the first time I actually was riding a wave and pumping down the line it really was like the most insane natural high. And it's still just the same every time. I feel you on it changing everything. I've changed and evolved so much from surfing. I feel like I have a better grasp on how lucky we are to live in the place we live, a sense that most things just don't matter and that being happy is such a simple thing. Gives me a sense of peace and everything slows down.
Fo sure nig its feels great to be far from land so stoned and just lay on your board and close your eyes and perceive everything around you.
I hear you man. Surfing has done so much for me. As of late I've slowly been working on changing my life. Shit hit the fan a couple years ago and ive been trying to rebuild. Tried removing all of the negative aspects of my life and focus on the positive. Surfing has given me a goal and ive been slowly molding my life and self to get better at it. Its been pretty surreal. Hopefully in 2016 all the hard work will pay off and ill get to travel the world for a while. Yeewww, Jersey is hardcore man! Where along the coast are you? Whats the best time to go? Im originally from the east coast but never got the chance to surf too much of it. Im tempted to head over there for a surf trip soon though Clay is fucking sick, the stuff he does is mental. Ive been watching some of Julian Wilson and Craig Anderson recently. Nobody threads barrels as calmly as Craig does
sorry for getting back to you so late. i mostly surf in northern ocean county and southern monmouth county. manasquan/jenks/bayhead/i***** b**** s**** p***/casino pier (the spot and the pier itself got destroyed by sandy, but it was one of the best rights on the east coast in its heyday) are my locales. one of the best things about jersey is that when it gets good, it gets good EVERYWHERE. so if there's sizable swell in the water with west winds you can expect to score literally anywhere from cape may all the way up to sandy hook. just gotta pick your sandbar and GO. the best time to go is the fall and winter, but you'll definitely some rubber to keep you warm. right now, you can get away with a 3/2 with 3mm booties, but by the dead of winter you're in a hooded 5/4 with 5-7mm gloves and booties. but it's all worth it. the only downside to jersey is that it's very fickle. 2-week flat spells are a normal thing, but they make you appreciate the good days when you get them.
Yeeewwww good luck man. Its been firing in Cali the past month and i havent had time for anything else. Youre strongly pushing the case for Jersey man. I'm strongly considering spending some time out there next year to catch some swell. I never really got to surf the east coast when i lived there, now that I know what i'm doing, Ive been itchi to go back. Post some pics if you can!