1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT

Discussion in 'Planes, Trains & Automobiles' started by AdenaDuvessa, Sep 21, 2013.

  1. I have a 94 mitsubishi 3000gt Which Ive bought from a random guy, Im having a bit of trouble with it and need some parts/knowledge If anyone knows much about mitsubishis or knows someone whos selling parts every little bit helps.. Thank you.

     

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  2. whats the trouble. hope its a stick?
     
  3. Well no it's not a stick :/ but it still drives nicely lol. I have a passenger window that I need to replace the motor in, the AC doesn't blow but hot air, I need to put a radio in it but I was told there's and electrical problem, my check engine light is on and it makes some weird noises and shakes I'm sure my boyfriend can tell more of what's wrong so ill have him get on here later.


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  4. Feel free to pm any issues you are having. If you can't tell by my av I have a 98 VR4.

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  5. That's all that's wrong with it as far as I can tell I wanted to take it to get a diagnostics done on it but the car shops all told me that they can only do car of the year 1996 and up mines to old so I have to try and figure out what's all wrong. I hope your having better luck with your VR4 they really are nice cars I just wish I know how to find mine lol.


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  6. Prizefighter we had woke up one morning. Got in the car and started it. Check engine light came on and the car started vibrating and shaking bad. One thing was she didn't have any oil. So that helped with the problem. Her moms boyfriend thinks the muffler is clogged. It would kind of jerk in between shifting. And would make a loud womp noise when accelerating. When you take off you really need to give it gas to get going. But now the car sounds fine, no loud womp noise. Shifts better now. No vibrating (still minor vibrations but nothing like before) but the light is still on. Doesn't sound like there's a clog now. But I still think it acts weird. Specifically when coasting. Sounds like it wants to shut off and everything seems really stiff. I'll try and drive it some more today to figure some more out.



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  7. Sounds like a clogged catalytic converter possibly. I bought a used Eclipse when I was young and dumb. Blew two engines in the thing not even driving it hard. Hated that car...... But I miss it now lol. Good luck.
     
  8. i hope you paid less than $1000. sounds kind of like a slipping transmission. . maybe a misfire? change all the spark plugs and the wires that go to each. to check the transmission fluid you need to have the car running in Park. its bad if the fluid is dark or smells burnt. add a bottle of trans fluid if the level is below the lower hole on the dipstick. be sure to check with the guy who works the auto parts store to get the fluid you need. happy tooling! i just had a new A/C compressor and radiator put in my Olds. so nice.
     
  9. #9 dankster777, Sep 22, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 22, 2013
    Check your plugs and wires, sounds like they could be bad or possibly you are losing compression, make sure the plugs are good and also snug in there. If plugs are in good shape check wires, wait till its dark, turn the car on and check under the hood, if you see any sparking from the wires you need new ones. How many miles are on the car, I am unfamiliar with the engine, however it could also be distributor cap and rotor/ignition coil packs depending on the system the car uses 150,000 miles and those need replacement, just a guess on mileage based on the age of the car, also don't rule out mass airflow sensor.When you say she had no oil.... Like you mean literally the car had no oil in it? Did you drive the car with no oil in it? And if so for how long?
     
  10. Hmm I agree that it sounds like a clogged cat. Can you smell a rotten egg type odor when the car has been running for awhile? Also I would sign up at 3sgto.org or 3si.org and post your issues there and also search the sites. There are years of troubleshooting advice there. One last question, how old is the gas in the tank? Could be old fuel. You will be able to read your check engine light with a volt meter. Here's a walkthrough:http://www.stealth316.com/2-diagcodes91-93.htm

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  11. She already replaced her cat converter. And it helped out somewhat. There was oil in it but under half and very dirty. There's 185,000on it. There's no rotten egg smell, just smells like exhaust fumes when pulling out of park and having to press on the gas. Gas was just put in a few days ago. Her plugs looked fairly new, not sure on wires however. Will look at those sites and check wires tonight. I thought a sensor may be bad causing it to stall.

    It also lags when coasting. Like its putting on the brakes itself or sounding/feeling as if its going to stall
     
  12. Maf sensor

    Regulates the air/fuel ratio, just my opinion

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  13. I love the  3000gt's especially the vr4's. They look so slick
     
  14. bad cat = rotten egg smell
     
    I'm not going to jump into conclusions and say its this or that without pinpointing what the PCM/ECU is already telling you.
     
    The first step would be to find out what DTC you actually have. 
    Autozone,pepboys,advanced auto all will be happy to pull the code for you for free.
     
    come back and tell us what code you have.
     

  15. The 1994 is odb1 so autozone ect will not be able to read the code. Here is a walkthrough to check the code:
    You will need 1 large paper clip and a length of insulated wire (about 2 - 3 feet).
    • Step 1 - Locate the diagnostic harness. It should be on the driver's side under the dash... right where your right knee would be
    • Step 2 - Straighten out one point on the paper clip
    • Step 3 - Shave the insulation off both ends of the wire about an inch
    • Step 4 - Wrap one end of the bare wire around the still curved bottom of the paperclip
    • Step 5 - Find a nice METAL place on the car to wrap the other end of the wire to it to form a good ground
    • Step 6 - Find the right-most pin in the second row.
    • Step 7 - Now, with the paperclip grounded via the wire take the straight end and slid it gently inside the harness in the 12th pin slot (right-most & closest to the firewall)
    • Step 8 - Now turn the ignition to the "ON" position and the Check Engine Light will start to flash out the code.


    ECU codes, read from pin 1 (+) and pin 12 (-)
    11 Oxygen Sensor (rear if Turbo) yes Harness, Ox sensor, Fuel pressure, Injectors, Intake air leak
    12 Air flow sensor yes Harness & connector, Replace Air flow sensor
    13 Intake air temp. sensor yes Harness & connector, Replace Intake air temp sensor
    14 Throttle position sensor yes Harness & connector, Replace sensor, Idle position switch
    21 Coolant temp. sensor yes Harness & connector, Replace Coolant temp. sensor
    22 Crank angle sensor yes Harness & connector, Replace Crank angle sensor
    23 Top dead center sensor yes Harness & connector, Replace Crank angle sensor
    24 Vehicle speed sensor (reed swch) yes Harness & connector, Replace speed sensor (reed switch)
    25 Barometric pressure sensor yes Harness & connector, Replace Barometric pressure sensor
    31 Detonation sensor (DOHC) yes Harness & connector, Replace Detonation sensor
    36 Ignition timing adjustment signal no Harness & connector, normal when setting timing
    39 Oxygen Sensor (front, turbo ) yes Harness, Ox sensor, Fuel pressure, Injectors, Intake air leak
    41 Injector yes Harness & connector, Check injector coil resistance
    43 EGR (California) yes EGR temp. sensor, EGR valve, EGR control solenoid, EGR valve control vacuum
    44 Ignition coil, transistor #1-4 yes Harness & connector, Ignition coil, Power transistor unit
    52 Ignition coil, transistor #2-5 yes Harness & connector, Ignition coil, Power transistor unit
    53 Ignition coil, transistor #3-6 yes Harness & connector, Ignition coil, Power transistor unit
    61 Transaxle control signal (A/T) yes Harness & connector, Replace Transaxle control unit
    62 Induction control position sensor (DOHC, non turbo only) yes Harness & connector, Induction control valve


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  16. that sucks, i guess it depends on location. Where im at they would check obd1 codes.  Their 'actron' diagnostic tool also have an obd1 configuration.
     
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    Mitsubishi is weird with their ecu codes. Most of them come up blank on generic meters. But the CEL blinking the code to you is almost the same so no worries.
     
  18. How many of you American drive stick?
     
    The thought of an automatic gear box in a performance car or any car is not for me, I like to actually drive a car.  :laughing:
     
  19. Manuals are rarities in newer cars since they are made with the auto-manual or tiptronic/paddle shifting. Still, manuals are around but I'd say a small percentage actually can drive them.  It's to the point where not many friends can drive your car if you need them to so you have to teach everyone how to lol.
     
  20. #20 El Duderino, Sep 24, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 24, 2013
    about 40,000. 
     
    some automated manual trannies in ultra performance cars can knock out shifts faster than any human could rowing his own. and they can give better MPG's. i would still rather a car with 5-6 of its own gears for ease of maintenance and less pricey to fix. the new Jeep Cherokee has a 9 speed auto. how much to service that thing in 80,000 miles. also fun fact for you Dodge diesel heads: the torque peak in an auto is 50 or so ft lbs. more than a manual for worry of prematurely wearing the clutches. also. the term "oil burner" comes from the fact that Diesel is actually more closely related to home heating oil. 
     

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