How To Determine Your Plants Preferred Nutrient Strength

Discussion in 'Hydroponic Growing' started by GoldGrower, Mar 27, 2013.

  1. Lots of good info, I just got started with DWC. I'm loving it. All this info makes sense. Thanks oly
     
  2. Would you keep adjusting daily or do you usually wait a couple days after an adjustment?  Wondering if the original imbalance could cause a swing before it levels out, once you have adjusted.
     
  3. I'd say it's best to not jump too quickly to mess around adjusting your ppm/ph.
     
    You'll see your levels swing throughout the day as your plant takes up nutrients/water at different times.  I'd recommend having a setpoint.  Say you wait till your ppm drop by 100 (just a number, use whatever you want) then adjust.
     
  4. #64 GoldGrower, Jul 1, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 8, 2014
    I adjust the PH once daily and get it back to 5.5, it will then creep up to about 6.5 over the course of the 24 hour period. but you may get different figured depending on your hydro system, water, nutrients and possibly other factors.

    as for the EC/ppm/tds level I adjust it up or down by adding extra nutes or water depending if the figure is rising or falling. if the strength is rising I will add water to bring it down. If the strength is falling, I will add more nutes to bring it back up.

    once you have it so it isn't going up or down then there is no need to adjust very often. Most likely you will only need to adjust when you have to top up the reservoir
     


  5. I'm not sure how to increase concentration of Nute solution. I know always start lower than recommended dose, and increase (as plants get bigger)until you get to max. So does a person add more nute to get a higher ppm? I know about nute burn. I use the ff trio and ff micros. On one of the (ff)feed charts, it gives you a recommended ppm level you should be at, after mixing all nutes.

    Oly
     
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  6. #66 GoldGrower, Jul 25, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 30, 2014
    that oonly really applies to soil growing, when your guessing on the desired strength. in hydro we use meters so can pin point exactly what the plant is using and then match that figure

    to raise strength, yeah you add more nutes
     
  7. #67 Erbalist, Aug 10, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 10, 2013
    Trial and error
     
  8. If my PPM rose roughly by 100 over a week or so, would you guys decrease your nute strength or keep it the same?
     
  9. Your nute strength is too high so lower it a tad

    Sent from my C6606 using Grasscity Forum mobile app
     
  10. If my solution rose at all I would adjust it back down to a little less. I would rather it fall than raise. However, I'd prefer it stayed the same
     
  11. By far one of my favorite threads. Thank you for this :)

    Iron Lung
     
  12. #73 GoldGrower, Apr 30, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: May 29, 2014
    Thanks for the love guys. I have Shit loads of grow books and read countless threads on nutes and how to administer them but never once have I seen someone suggest that you should test to see what the plant is using and then match it. To me it just sounds obvious. Since starting this thread I have seen lots of people using this method and they simply don't get nutrient over or underdose problems.

    I only wish I explained it better on the opening post. I may edit it as I made it sound way more complicated than it is lol
     
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  13.  
     
    You don't try and get the plant to take up a specified nutrient strength. I believe this is why so many people get muddled with this. The plant will take up the nutes and water at their own preferred concentration. To facilitate this uptake at maximum speed you need to have that same nutrient concentration in the reservoir. This is because you will then have osmosis balance and therefore less resistance.
    But maybe you already knew that and I just misunderstood what you said.
     
    When I adjust my EC its just a matter of adding more nutes or more water. When I top up I fill the res with water and then add nutes until I get my desired strength.
     
    Traditionally people raised their EC value gradually until the plants got so sick they actually started to die back. They then dropped the EC value slightly and then assumed this was the most favourable area. After a week or two because the plants take up more water than nutes what was left in the res became stronger and stronger so they needed to refresh the res or the plants would start to die back again. They also only topped up with water for the same reason.
     
    This outdated system is basically making a problem and then blindly trying to fix it. My way uses the EC meter to measure what is in the solution so you can keep it in the optimal zone all of the time. This way you don't have to worry about the plant getting damaged so you don't have to refresh the reservoir so often.
     
    Because the plants will take up individual nutrients at different ratios to what is in your chosen nutrient brand (if the brand has done it's job properly the nutrient ratio should be close) they leave behind more of certain elements over others, so the remaining solution can become unbalanced. Therefore a refresh will be necessary at some point. This point will depend on how much solution they take up in relation to the size of the res and really isn't reflected in time. A small plant in a large res wouldn't effect the remaining solution as much as a large plant in a small res for instance.
     
    I'm not 100% on the best time to refresh the res as I'm still experimenting on this idea. But I'm currently theorizing that once the plants have drank 4 times the volume of the reservoir it's probably time to refresh. With a large reservoir this will often result in only needing to refresh when changing from veg nutes to flower nutes 
     
    People are indeed throwing nutes away for no good reason and it's because they don't understand why the nutes are damaging their plants. And also they think that somehow high concentration of nutes cause the plant to take up more nutes. But having the concentration at an osmotic balance allows the fastest uptake speed and will allow more nutes to be taken up, it's just there will be a lot more water taken up a well
     
    Sorry for the long winded reply, sometimes I get carried away lol 

     
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  14. hiya pal could you give some advice on what ec i should have my solution at for handwatering coco? Atm ive been winging it with a low strength solution but want it to be abit more accurate. Thanks

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  15.  
    Growing without a recirculating reservoir makes it a little harder, but if you measure what you add to the coco and then measure the run off the following time you water there should be a difference. (both waterings have to be the same EC so you can use the run off figure as a comparison) 
     
    If you put up a photo of them, I could estimate the EC so you are somewhere near
     
  16. Bfhbb

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  17.  
    What? 
     
  18. This would be a great thread to be stickied.

    Just saying...

    "Don't let the past remind us of what we are not now."

    1000 watt Scrog Journal
     
  19. This is exactly the kind of strateforward simple to follow info i have been looking for, thank you, ive had trouble figuring out the proper PPM schedule for nutrients
     

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