Healthy hydroponics ppm & ph

Discussion in 'Hydroponic Growing' started by bizie, Dec 1, 2012.

  1. Amazing post. And I truly believe in doing research before starting to grow. I did months of being on the forum just reading people's problems a peoples information forums like this one here.. To be honest this is the best thread I have found on PPM and PH. I have and will keep using this info and using less nutes to keep a healthy plant. I have about 200 ppm in my res and my babies love it. My PH stays right at 5.6-6.1 in a 24-48 period. I love it. Makes things very easy on me and I don't have to run around like a mad man with defecencies and PH control. Now I've had some yellowing but that's due to me getting free clones not having clonex. Thinking they did. Lol. But I still came out good... Low PPms. Key
     
  2. Let me ask you a question...

    I have my clones in a 5 gallon bubble bucket. My PPM's are at 185-200. Stay pretty consistent. My OH stays around 5.5-6.1 in a 24 period... 1. Is this ok.( have had no problems ) 2. When I transplant them to their own buckets in my DWC system. Should I raise the PPMs to like 250 or should I keep them at 185-200 and after a few days bring the PPMs up?


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  3. #103 bizie, Mar 26, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 26, 2014
    A whole point of a ph swing could signify the beginning of a problem. A full point being a 1.0, as in 5.5 - 6.5 in a day. That is not normal for me. Post #100 of this thread may help you decide when to raise your ppm. It all depends on how your plants are currently responding on whether or not you should.
     
  4. Hi Bizie, i like the post very much...really it is very informative.....good work.
    Thank you.
     
  5. Got over that right now. But now I'm having a little root for. Haven't changed the water in about a week and a half. So going I change tomorrow then add some UC roots to some plain water pH'd. Then add nutes later that day. They say this UC roots shit is the bomb. And made for exactly this. Hope so getting big. ImageUploadedByGrasscity Forum1396840893.220982.jpg ImageUploadedByGrasscity Forum1396840905.119267.jpg ImageUploadedByGrasscity Forum1396840920.169247.jpg
    Here's some of the pics of the leaves.


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  6. All are signs of over feeding. The tip & edge burn, spots, yellow streaks, purple steams. Yes some are deficiencies but not from lack of any mineral in the solution. Its from uptake restriction. Its best to let her adjust for a bit until she greens up. If you keep changing the nutes and adding magical problem solvers you're going to make things worse. The high salts actually dry out the tissue and give it that crispy look so raise the rh and allow it to get more water via the stomata. Plants like very high humidity especially in times of stress. Give her time to adjust, every time you change the solution you're feeding her more, even if you're not raising the ppm. If you're having burn, lockout, or uptake issues then I advise anyone to stop messing with the nutes and let the plant adjust. This could take weeks. You don't need to change nutes every week, that's a myth, I go 2-3 weeks in the veg room just fine. Mothers have gone months without being changed. Just by the pics I can tell you have very low humidity, they look very dry. I suggest misting them often, light off for spraying is a myth also, does not matter. Use the cleanest water you can. Remember rain water is 0ppm and that's what they are use to getting sprayed with. Keep them happy.
     
  7. Someone else said the humidity too. But I'm going to put a humidifier in there today. It is the roots though. They are turning brown. And a brown slime is on them. Not going to change the water for a while then. So what should I do about the roots then


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  8. So when I mist should I do a light spraying a few times a day. Also have a warm air humidifier. Will this do the trick


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  9. Thanks a lot going to do this today






    Thanks slot man. Going to do this today


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  10. #110 bizie, Apr 11, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 11, 2014
     
    Well you will want to read up on vapor pressure deficit, take rh reading and take appropriate measures to keep it in acceptable range, usually around 70% rh.
     
    Brown roots start from restricted uptake. Once they try to slow the passing of water (aka osmosis) then fungus can take over easier. High nute levels also decrease waters D.O holding capacity and allow anaerobic bacteria to spread. There is always aerobic and anaerobic bacteria present everywhere, even in your water, growing system. A healthy and vigorous plant can fight off the bad bacteria. Its your job as the grower to keep the plant healthy and vigorous and its defense system (aka SAR or system acquired resistance) will be able to fight off infections of root disease, fungus, and even insects.
     
    I would kindly ask though for people requiring assistance with their grow to PM me and I will gladly help. I just don't want the good info in this thread to be lost within inquiries. Thank you. One love.
     
  11. That all was so helpful thank you!
     
  12. after feeding too high ppm and you then  change solution to 100 ppm,how will you know that plant has corrected itself?
     
  13. Some more info- The tolerance build to a full dose of nutes.
     
    Obtaining a full dose of nutes can be difficult and even impossible for some people. First off let me say that the full dose is based on a near perfect environment. Some experienced growers don't even know what a perfect environment is. Most growers only really concentrate on temperature, monitor humidity, and will do little to control it as long as its not to high. This is not the right way to control a indoor environment and what one should first do is read up on vapor pressure deficit (VPD for short) and its effect on plants, most growers would probably find their rh to be too low with their high accompanying temperature. Most growers have such a dry and hot environment that it causes their plants to drink much more water then plants would under optimum conditions, This accelerated uptake of water can often cause your plants to o.d in nutes and or lock them out, since every drink of water comes with whatever you have in there. So the first thing you need to do is make sure your environment is as close to perfect as you can get it. If your plants restrict uptake for any reason at all it can also lead to root rot. Remember root rot is not only caused from low d/o, it can be caused from a number of things but in the o.p I never talked about how uptake restriction can also cause the rot. When your plants try to restrict uptake for less nutes but need more water the two get very conflicting. Then you end up with a dehydrated poor looking burned up plant that doesn't know how to adapt to anything. We can think of the grow as a balance act and when you balance everything out you end with success.
     
    Okay, now that I have the details out of the way I will get into the good stuff. HUGE healthy buds! For the longest time I have had great success solely following my meters and only feeding what the plants asked for but what I notice with this is that it always left me growing with much less then a full recommended dose. This always left me wondering why the "pros" have such a high recommendation for nutes. Well truth be told you don't need a full dose to grow healthy dank plants but I wanted bigger yields so I pushed towards a full dose. Every time I got to a full dose it would be in flower and I would see problems start arising. I know from previous experiments that I can grow mature flowering plants with less then 200ppm but how and why? Well it is the plants and their amazing ability to adapt to anything. So this got me thinking about adapting them to higher levels of nutes at a younger age so they could take it better in flower. This people has been the key for a equilibrium uptake at a full dose, good environment, with a nutrient tolerance built in VEG. Not trying to smother them in flower because by this time they have made their mind up on how they like to live and eat.
     
    I use all advanced nutrients products (bash me later, I've used them all) and they are one of the hardest manufacturers to obtain a full dose with but not with a early tolerance build and good vpd I've been hitting a full dose in veg and have been getting huge buds with a full dose of connoisseur in flower. Just base nutes on R/O water that is it! NO CALMAG ADDITIVE!! One thing I will say though is that when you increase the ppm you often will see signs of stress and possibly even some root problems but if your environment is good then they will adjust to the level of nutes that the manufactures KNOW these plants are capable of handling and will thrive in it. The trick is to have the uptake near a equilibrium before you up the dose of nutes (this is where ph&ppm monitoring come into play), let them adjust and then repeat the process until you have achieved a full dose or as close as you can get. This is the only way to know the full uptake potential of your plants. Remember that all of this is based on the proper environment, not just a decent one either but rather a optimum. I have hit a full dose with clf's, 8" plants, and 4' plants, so size and light do not effect the nutrient tolerance! The environment however does!
     
    Oh yeah on to the pics...Camera is old and not the best but it gets the job done. Enjoy the pics and hopefully this will help some people get their yields up.
     

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  14. #114 Secret Jardin, Oct 6, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 6, 2014
    Yes! I also agree, he posted on my thred aswell and gave great advice along with the others who contributed
     
  15. bumping info.
     
    You CAN get to a full dose. It needs to be done properly and you will succeed
     
    Learn how to use your nutes. Slowly build the ppm's in veg. Know when to stop feeding and give your plants time to adjust!  
     
    If your having problems, stop feeding and let them adjust to the CURRENT solution.
     
    YOU kill them, they don't just die, so stop messing with them. lol
     
  16. Bumping the pro info
     

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