Bizie's best way to harvest & dry cannabis

Discussion in 'Harvesting and Processing Marijuana' started by bizie, Nov 30, 2012.

  1. haha reading this made me feel like you pushed my Xmas back longer, but I'm curious to try it out tho. thx for the info man sounds like you actually kno some stuff and do actual research and not copy and paste.
     
  2. So basically I can just leave my plant in her pot after I flush just let her dry out and In the pot .. I don't ever have to take her out of the pot or the soil . let her dry out real good and the trim .. ??

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  3. ive always rough wet trimmed, hanged em up then started trimming and racking  onto chicken wire. running a single large fan in the room. everything above seems legit but im paranoid of mold from allthe fan leaves 
     
  4. Yeah that would work great. It would take a long time if grown in soil, you would have to stop watering a couple weeks before you even are expecting to harvest. Plants also produce more resin in a drought to try to hold in more water and reflect off more light.
    If you can control the environment you'll be fine. RH under 60 and some air flow and you'll be fine. Or if you still prefer a wet trim, try hanging the plant for a few days and then rough trim and hang until dry. For me it's easier to just hang everything entact. Those final few days where the plant is still alive but knows its imminent death is near seem to help produce quality meds. One trick is to enduce senescence a week or two before you intend to harvest and she'll give everhing she has is resin production.
     
  5. Enduce senescence for last week or 2?

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  6. #26 Dro Smoe, Nov 6, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 6, 2013
    Yes, senescence-  "the process of accumulative changes to molecular and cellular structure that disrupts metabolism with the passage of time, resulting in deterioration and death."  
    Accumulative changes = starving the plant of water and ferts - inducing death. 
     
    Looks good, gonna try this method next week with my next harvest..  
     
  7. I'm glad I read this. I had 2 twins going and the wind knocked one over yesterday and had to chop a little prematurely, I was planning on this weekend anyway so that is when I will do the 2nd. I did a pretty full trim on the first one so I will use your method on the 2nd so I can have a easy comparison. 
     
    Great guide!
     
  8. Does the whole, draining the water and letting sit to dry method cause the plant to hermie?
     
  9. No if you drain the water then your plant would not have time to hermie or the water and minerals it would need to do so. If your plant is changing to a hermaphrodite during the late flower stresses then that is already a genetically predisposed trait. Any plant that has a genetic hermaphrodite trait will usually change under periods of stress. It can be from any type of stress. But the late flower stress or senescence (when done properly) will produce a better quality medicine. That can be done best with environmental changes to the plant, i.e temp, RH, water frequency, water temp and amount, and even lighting can. I think flushing is more for just ridding accumulated salts from the plant tissue and not so much for inducing senescence. Although it can help to a extent at the end, flushing too early can cause stunted plant growth. The plant does need some nutritional content to fulfill its life cycle or senescence.
     
  10. #30 GreatLakeSmoke, Nov 27, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 27, 2013
    Bizie, I cut one down yesterday and hung it upside down and I left all the leaves although I usually pluck the dieing ones towards the end of flower so there isn't a whole lot but I will use your post here as a reference because it has answered some of the questions I had already. I have it hung from a cloths hanger inside a card board box I'm monitoring the temp and humidity with a meter so far day one ended at 72 and 45% rh so far so good I'm hoping within a week I can chop her up and get it into jars.Sent from my Samsung using GC mobile app
     
  11. #31 GreatLakeSmoke, Dec 2, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 2, 2013
    Just a little update / question....so I took the plant that i cut and hung on the 26th and put it in a jar after about 4 days there were still a couple buds that are moist or squishy when I put them into jars overall I would say Most of the buds had a good amount of moisture but had firmness and we're relatively dry to touch on the outside which leads me to think they could have hung for another day or two but fearful of "hay" weed I plucked and canned em. My question is or my observation is that the buds should still be somewhat moist when put into jars because I can already smell some funk coming from them which I anticipate will turn to fruity bubbleicious smell in a few weeks - like the smell when I squeezed the buds during flower. I know you need to burp them everyday until all is dry to keep from molding and I have even set them out for a couple hours on two different occasions I guess what I'm wondering is if it sounds like I'm on the right track or if I need to let them dry more before I jar them. ThanksSent from my Samsung using GC mobile app
     
  12. #32 bizie, Dec 4, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 4, 2013
    It may have been a couple days soon but no worries I'm sure even those few days as a whole plant still helped the final product. Since your rh was so low then they were probably drying somewhat fast and caused you to worry. I think you could have let them go a little longer before disrupting the consumption of starches by trimming everything into jars.The trick is knowing how long to let them dry so they still have just a slight bit of moisture to cure which I honestly think is a lot dryer then most people think. The longer this takes the better it will be.
     
    A slight bend and then a crack is perfect for me to start curing. The bud should feel dry to the touch but have some give or a slight squish when squeezed. The stems will have lost their greenish look  by then. Really even better then pulling them down and finishing the dry into jars would be to leave the plant whole for as long as possible and trying to keep the humidity a little higher. This can be done by enclosing the plant a little more or with a humidifier. If you need to use a humidifier I suggest using a ultrasonic one so you produce a 'dry' moisture. Water that's heated to a vapor creates a larger molecule and tends to fall out of the air easier or condensate on objects and this is when bacteria can grow.
     
    If your still having issues with loss of flavor even when drying this way then I think the issue is a plant that was harvested too early or a plant that was stunted and never able to develop to its full potential before it died off or ripened.
     
    I do think you're on a decent track. Maybe instead of just burping try to leave the lid off for some time, like 30 min or a hr. Sounds to me like they still have a bit of moisture. Are they clumping together in the jars? This is a sign they are still too wet. Also a little tip is keeping the jars in a slightly warm spot of the house. This will help to speed up the cure. You can also speed up the dry the same way, slight warmth. Its better to speed up the dry with WARMTH (not direct heat) and not dry air. Dehumidifying the air or dry air will cause a more uneven dry then using warmth.
     
    How is it smoking?
     
  13. #33 GreatLakeSmoke, Dec 6, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 6, 2013
    Well the one I originally referred too could had Def hung for a couple more days ....(This was re - realized when I cut 2 more plants a few days later and they ended up hanging for about 6 days or so before I jarred em) I did end up leaving them out for periods of time and also left them in a jar for a while with the lid just kinda leaning on the opening (jar was side ways) which seemed to help. They were initially sticking together in the jar but after taking em out and letting them dry more they no longer are sticking.....The smoke is very smooth no harshness and the goes to a pure whitish Grey ash which is the sign of a proper flush. ..I'm now just hoping that the smell and flavor will come on in a week or so ...i think it will because the jar doesn't smell of hay like I've experienced in the past. I'll repost in a week or two about the flavor and also probably about the 2 additional cuts of late. Thanks bizSent from my Samsung using GC mobile app
     
  14. hey bro can u help?in grying in grow tent my temp\\humid is69/66 im scared of getting mould tnx dude.
     
  15. #35 bizie, Dec 31, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 31, 2013
     
     
    That is going to be difficult to even get dry. But there are a few options. 65% rh isn't too too high but 70% is. To check for mold the best thing for me is; first-smell, second- the center of the fattest bud will always mold first so open that one for inspection if you're suspicious of mold.
     
    Can you can utilize a exhaust fan or open a door and air it out? You would need a lot of air circulation and cooler temps to not get mold at that humidity. Do you have any cash for a dehumidifier or some damprid? (moisture wicking product sold at home improvement stores)
     
    One may ask; why are my plants growing fine now at 70% rh so why would they mold when drying at 70% rh? The answer is because of the light; one reason is mold has a harder time growing under light, another reason is the light causes the plants to transpire more. (evaporate water)
     
    So another thing you could do is just leave have the lights cycle for a few days or however long you feel you need to reach a desired moisture level within the plant to avoid mold. Once you feel they have lost a good amount of moisture then cut the lights out for the remainder of the dry.
     
    The last option for me would be trimming off the fan leaves. All of your cuts will cause rapid moisture evaporation from within the cells. The more your worried about mold, the smaller of pieces you should cut the plant into. I have had mold happen in the grow room and had to break that whole plant down to avoid mold spreading. But remember that dry cells equals dead cells that wont carry starches and sugars to the buds. The more starches and sugars that your plant has access to when drying then the more flavor it will have when smoked, since starches and sugars get converted into flavorful compounds through the drying process.
     
    But remember this- Mold is caused from bacteria, not moisture. Mold needs moisture to spread. Sitting water or moisture is what causes bacteria to start forming, even more so in warmer areas. If you keep a clean, cool, and arid room then bacteria should never start. If mold only needed moisture then plants would always be moldy since they are something like >80%water. Keep the water within the plant moving to avoid mold, this is done with transpiration.
     
    Hope that helps.
     
  16. yh bro thanx alot :yay:  :yay:  :yay:  :yay:  :yay:  :yay:  :yay:
     
  17. all dune got it curing thank you for your help biz
     
  18.  No problem. Hope I helped. Enjoy the fruits of your labor.
     
  19. i am dude thanks again :hello:
     
  20. Seeing a lot of questions about proper curing so I'm just giving this post a bump to share good info about curing.
     

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