Chlorination of Municipal Tap. (Chlorine, chlorinated, chloramine)

trikfinite, large scale organic gardening/farming interests are mainly concerned with the residual amount of chlorine that can be found on or in their product. The amount of chlorine (there are many, many chemical formulations of "chlorine") typically found in municipal water sources is inconsequential in the total living soil pardigm. Yes chlorine in sufficient quantity will kill bacteria, fungi, parasites, and other organisms known to be harmful to animals and humans but these levels of chlorine are much higher than that which is found in a typical municipal water supply by the time it reaches the tap such that use of municipal water for irrigation in nursery production is, or can be, removed to the extent that it is a non-issue for an organic producer to receive the nod of "ok" by the USDA and the NOP (National Organic Program). Unless the municipal water is of such high concentration of chlorine to kill every single organism, particularly in the case of soil bacteria and fungi these organisms can rapidly reproduce such that use of municipal water is not of concern that all of these beneficial organisms will die off completely.

Simple filtration is one method used by production growers. Another method is to pump the water into a holding tank or pond where the chlorine can gas off and then the water is pumped for irrigation.

Keep in mind that even in true organic practices harmful bacteria, slime, molds, algae, will form in the absence of light. As these growers will typically use drip irrigation the lines and emitters must be cleaned routinely and the remedy is sodium hypochlorite, aka "chlorine", which when managed to specifications, is perfectly acceptable to the USDA and NOP.

Growers that use pulse type sprinklers for irrigation will often pump directly from the municipal source and the very act of the water dispensing from the articulating and "pulsing" sprinkler head will allow for much of the chlorine to dissipate after it leaves the sprinkler head and before the water hits the ground.

If you will use a spray type nozzle set on "rain" or "mist" on the end of your hose and hold the nozzle such that the water exits, arcs before falling to the ground, much of the chlorine will never make it to plant or soil level.

If one is using non-percolated municipal water for indoor gardening then of course the above comments do not apply in totality because the dynamics are different than what was previously described: i.e. an introduction of the chlorinated water directly into a closed 3-5 gallon container housing a plant and beneficial microbes. That is more risky. Chlorine actually binds to organic material and as such, in amounts in balance with the overall scheme of life in the containerized soil medium, it is in all likelihood not an issue.

The hardness or total alkalinity of municipal water is much more harmful to a balanced soil medium than the small amounts of chlorine that one finds in municipal tap water.

In one test performed by the University of Colorado it was determined, perhaps not emperically, that it takes 65ppm of chlorine to detrimentally harm soil life. The typical amount of chlorine substances used in municipal water will typically measure LESS than 1ppm.

You can find out what the levels of everything in your municipal water are by either calling your water supplier directly and asking for a copy of the federally required annual water analysis report or going online and find the published document directly without calling anyone. Whomever you are paying for your water must have an annual report available to the consumer on demand. It is a federal law requiring them to do so. Water co-ops have different rules but still must provide the consumer with a detailed analysis of the water being pumped to the home.

So the long answer is that large scale organic producers use one or a combination of well water, pond water, storage tank water, filtered municipal water, or dechlorinated water that is held temporarily seperate from the source and percolated to remove the chlorine.

The USDA and the NOP are the authoritative governing bodies in the US for all things organic related. Any of the other "organic agencies" are simply spin offs of that which is funded by federal dollars - you, me, and everyone - the taxpayers, and is otherwise "free" for research. OMRI is a classic example of that statement. The majority of their money comes from fees for "testing products intended for organic production". Otherwise, the NOP has it all not-so-clearly spelled out but they, the NOP, are the authoritative source, not OMRI (which is a splendid organization for the public good).

 

Follow your worm guys lead.

Worms don't eat food, but the bacteria that's breaking the food down. He has more micro herd activity going on in that bin than in a soil mix and if hose water isn't hurting his micro herd .............

Get some worms or vermicompost with cocoons in it and 'seed' your pile of horse crap. That will get it going.

Wet