Yeah, we are at the point where a lot of the artisan aspects of our field are purely speculation. GreyWolf and others swear by just a few hours of thin film at 29.5"HG 115f. He says all that time exposed to heat in the 95-100f range will just cause degrading. Claims that the less time under that temp/atmospheric pressure the better. I have yet to find what I like better, if I could be honest with ya.
I kinda believe it. s to how bad it's degrading? I don't know..Is it not basically baking inside the chamber ? Ur literally dehydrating it the higher temp. That's why wax. ( after days) it gets even dryer n harsher won't even stick to the dabber. Ppl around here try to call it crumble.. honestly I'm not a fan of crumble. Am I false ? Someone let me know If I am Sent from my HTC One SV BLK using Grasscity Forum mobile app
What we are doing is lowing the boiling points of the compounds by bringing down the atmospheric pressure, and raising the temps to change the viscosity to help solvents escape. Having a thin film is one of the more important aspects to achieving this, and not getting nucleated product, or wax.
Correct that is exactly what is going on. I was just tryna I guess.. say... What's basically going on.. but that's exactly what's going on. lol and. So u found that super thin film will keep it from buffering? Even if u scrape it all up ? Sent from my HTC One SV BLK using Grasscity Forum mobile app
Looks nice jojo. Yeah I have heard of some people purging at like 120+ for only like 6 hrs, and testing really low for ppm. That's where I was going with the higher temp to release solvent easier. These are exactly the little tweaks that make us "extract artists" we all do it just a tad differently. @bombchonski no I am not on instagram, but I know that's where all you extractors are. I have seen a lot of guys post links to their instagram pictures. Now on subject of scraping. As some of you know I have been doing "pour outs" and loving it. I did a small run last weekend and did a pour out. It stayed a nice shatter, but the scraped patty waxed in like 8 hrs under the same conditions. They were both in the chamber at the same time. I will see if I can find the pic I took. Not saying the is the definite cause, but my experiences lately are keeping me from ever scraping again.
Nice Jimmy. I really think it is just a strain thing though. Like with just about everything else. If it's a strain that usually wants to wax I think the pour out just gives it a little better chance of not waxing. I really like the picture it just makes me think "grilled chees sandwich" I don't know looks like a piece of cheddar or something, but then again I am a "cheese head."
pouring out definitely helps it stay clear, I've noticed that. the low viscosity keeps gasses from getting trapped in the oil, which is what can cause nucleation. when I have something wax up, usually I'll just ride it out and make wax. hasnt happened in a while but I dont usually mind, especially if its some personal. love me some cheese
Exactly how I feel Jimmy. I def. prefer shatter, or sap, but I don't at all mind some wax here and there. Works better in my globe attachment for E-cig than shatter. So a little better at work. Fat dabs at home.
I definitely agree as well. Maybe it was my strains. But @todder I had the same issues . My scraped product would start to get cloudy after so many hours. Even at low temps.. so I kinda. learned not to scrape anymore. since I been dewaxing. Good ol pour out does the trick well. I get some nice stable stuff now Sent from my HTC One SV BLK using Grasscity Forum mobile app
When the time is right I would love to hear about this more modern design than the lil terp extractor @[member="bombCHONKSKI"] Sent from my HTC One SV BLK using Grasscity Forum mobile app
I will draw up a diagram if needed. Otherwise if you understand the basic scheme of the little terp I can just give you a shopping list and explain how it works. Basically, you can use a concentric reducer with a 1/4" npt nipple coming off for recovery. They didn't supply those back when GreyWolf designed them. And get a 30# tank to hold your butane. You can hook up to the vapor port and flip it upside down to do the run. You would even be able to do this with cryo temps. Just use a ferrule/ball valve/flare fitting at the top and a ball valve/flare fitting coming off the concentric reducer at the bottom. When your done showering your column, flip the ball valve, disconnect, and reconnect at the bottom for recovery. If you're new to the close loop idea I can go further into detail, an easier explanation, just ask! And @[member="todderfran"], you don't have to go that high on temps after all so you could still make shatter, and do your pour outs
Thanks Bombchonski. I am still thinking about it. In the middle of trying to find a new place and set up a new grow so for now it's on the back burner. But still buying pieces here and there.
I usually like to read through before asking ?s But in this case i have no time, i have gotten all of my blasting techniques from this forum and have been very satisfied. My ? today is, I am partial to Colibri Tane, I got my Headshop to order them and keep them in stock... now they have something alittle pricer that they want me to try,,, N-Tane Brands Stok and Puretane. have you used any Ntane Jimmy Carter
dont use it, its nothing special. they both have just as much lubricants in them as the other brands and usually makes for a less terpy extract due to there being much less propane in the mix. Lucienne is the ultimate route to go for cans if you must use them, its consistently the cleanest in all those 'mystery-oil' tests. if they can order you Colibri, have them get Lucienne, its far more affordable.