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How to make Hash?
Posted 01 November 2002 - 12:57 PM
Similar Topics: How to make Hash? x
Posted 01 November 2002 - 08:55 PM
What is hashish?
Hashish is made by taking the resin from the leaves and flowers of the marijuana
plant and pressing it into cakes or slabs. Hash may contain five to ten times as
much THC as other forms of marijuana.
The process for extracting the essence of marijuana is a simple one, but it
requires the utmost care. Get a lot of female plants that have grown all the
way. Make sure they are absolutely dry by hanging them in a shed for some weeks.
Now take off all the leaves that are bigger than 1/2 inch. You end up with just
a stem with some buds sitting on it.
Now strip off the buds into a container. (BTW, Hash (moroccan style) consists
exclusively of the pressed grains of resin that are sitting on top of tiny resin
glands that are most abundant on the leaves surrounding the seeds, or flowers.
The seeds should also be taken out, as they are much to greasy for good hash.
When the plant is dry this resin hardens to form a very small particle, called
"pollen" which is not actual pollen however.)
So now you've got all the clean buds start crushing them over a kitchen sieve
(mesh size about 0.5 mm). The seeds and stems will stay on top of the sieve.
"Grind" the leaves gently through the sieve. You end up with a sort of powdered
leaves. Be sure that the thin skins that surround the seeds are included in this
result, because they contain most of the resin glands.
You may repeat this process using a sieve with an even smaller mesh size. (0.25
mm). Then take a cloth with the appropriate "mesh size" and rub the powder you
have already got over this cloth. In the ideal case, only the finest particles
pass through the cloth and will ill consist only of tiny grains of resin. Now
take this powder and wrap it into a sheet of kitchen plastic foil. Now press
this "package" between a few logs of wood. The result is a sheet of hashish. If
the sheet falls apart again you've got too much leafy stuff in between the
resin. Try a cloth with a smaller mesh size the next time. This procedure is
only advised when you have so much weed to spare that you don't possibly smoke
it all in a year.
What is hash oil?
Hash oil is derived from cannabis primarily using the same process of extraction
that hashish is, but with continual repetition of that process. It can be made
by heating and pressing hash to release the oil. There is very good hash oil
that is dark in color, but the lighter the color, the more refined and potent it
is. TRY TO BUY STUFF THAT LOOKS LIKE HONEY, "HONEY OIL" it should have a
semi-appealing smell, not as good a smell as hash though.Hash oil may possesses
a THC content averaging 20 percent. Hash oil is normally smoked.
Porcelain pot or heat resistant pyrex bowl, one which is suitable for use in
cast iron skillet (frying pan larger than the porcelin pot)
Coffee filters (the re-usable gold filters work very well as well, these can
be bought at supermarkets)
isopropyl alcohol (commonly available at pharmacies, look for alcohol that
is 99% pure, denatured alcohol also works well, read NO rubbing alcohol)
Take 1 coffee filter, and place your marijuana in it. Pour the alcohol over
the marijuana in the coffee filter so that the alcohol drains into one of the
bowls. Squeeze every bit of the alcohol from the marijuana into the bowl.
Now transfer the same marijuana into a clean coffee filter, and use the same
alcohol to pour over it again into the second bowl.
Keep repeating this over and over again. If you have a problem with the coffee
filters breaking apart while you are squeezing the marijuana, use 2 or 3
coffee filters at a time. The alcohol will turn green.
Next, take the iron skillet set it on the stove, and put the porcelain pot
into the skillet. Fill the skillet with water.
Alcohol is extremely flammable. Don't be stupid, be CAREFUL!
Do not cook the alcohol over the open flame. The water in the skillet
assists in preventing the alcohol from getting too hot and helps to prevent
the alcohol from igniting on fire.
Ensure your kitchen has good ventilation. Use the stove fan and other fans
to move the air around in order to prevent fumes from gathering in one place
Let the alcohol in the porcelain pot in the skillet simmer on "LOW". Make sure
the skillet remains full of water. The alcohol will evaporate very very
quickly. Make sure you do not let it evaporate too quickly or burn the
Once all the alcohol has been evaporated off, you will be left with hash oil.
Take a razor blade and scrape it up and smoke it.
Cannabis Alchemy : The Art of Modern Hashmaking : Methods for Preparation
of Extremely Potent Cannabis Products
D. Gold / Paperback / Published 1990
This book tells you how to concentrate active ingredients from Cannabis,
and how to modify them to improve their potency.
This book explains exactly how to prepare Cannabis extracts and
preparations using readily available kitchen pots and pans and a few
chemistry set novelties. He also describes a larger set-up utilizing a 55
Fast and Easy Hash Oil Production
By ThE WaTcHeR@
Hello friends. I am going to try and relate to you, the real method of producing
hash oil from the leaves of the cannabis plant.
Note: that if you are using flower of the female plant you will find an end
product with at least 5 times the strength of the oil produced using the leaf of
the plant. The reason for this is:
The leaf contains a low percent of the active compound tetrahydrocannabinol
(THC).Which upon extraction from the plant will be mixed with a larger percent
of the compound cannabidol (which the cannabis plant converts into the more
active isomer tetrahydracannabinol by means of natural acids within the plant
itself). So, by the process of isomerazation (which I will give instructions for
in a bit), we will help nature along by converting the cannabidol into THC.
Now when you do an extract from the flower of the female plant you get a larger
percent of THC than you do cannabidol. Now the THC being good to begin with you
also get a bonus. The THC that is present will be converted to delta-9-THC
during izmerazation which has a more pronounced psychedelic effect than the
regular isomer of THC. (you also get some ungodly head rushes.)
So in conclusion, upon extraction and izmerazation from the leaves / shake /
sun-leaves of the cannabis plant you have a large percent of THC which you
converted from the cannabidol and a small percent of the delta-9-THC isomer
which was converted from the already existent THC that naturally occur in the
leaves of the cannabis plant. Now since there is a high concentration of THC in
the flowers of the female plant and a noticeably smaller amount of cannabidol,
upon extraction and izmerazation of the flowers you get a low percentage of THC
and a much higher percent of the delta-9-THC conversion. This leaves you with a
more psychedelic product when all is said and done. A bit of technical
information taken from the solvent FAQ on:
found in marijuana, the psychoactive stuff
prop: bp 200 C @ 0.02mm Hg (other cannabinoids may have bp's lower than 185 C)
sol: polar solvents, acetone, alcohol’s, etc.
note: this is an oily substance, not water soluble
Well it is time to get on with the extraction of tetrahydrocannabinol and the
A LIST OF LABWARE:
1 CONDENSER 300 MM JACKET
1 FLASK, FLORENCE (FLAT BOTTOM), 500 Ml
1 SEPARATORY FUNNEL 500 Ml
A LIST OF CHEMICALS THAT YOU WILL NEED:
ETHYL ALCOHOL / METHANOL (wood alcohol)
SULFURIC ACID (Concentrate 96 to 98 %(you can use a weaker acid but the
delta-9 conversion is greater with the stronger sulphuric acid)).
SODIUM BICARBONATE (baking soda)
NOTE: The most easy to find solvent for the extraction of the THC from the plant
matter, is denatured alcohol which is ethyl alcohol that has been made Poisson
with methanol (sunny side is a good brand of denatured alcohol). Methanol can
cause blindness and death ! So don’t drink this stuff, and make sure when you
separate the layers as described later on in this process, you don’t get any of
the alcohol solvent layer in with the toluene layer.
Well, now that we have gathered all these solvents and glass ware, we will have
some of the best hash oil in about 8 hours that you will ever find. So on to the
process of extracting and izmerizing the cannabis essence.
You must dry your plant matter to a state where it will crumble into a fine
TIP use your microwave oven, heat the plant matter for 1 to 2 min at a time then
let cool, do this till it is completely dry. To crumble the plant matter, place
it in a 1 gallon plastic zip-lock bag and proceed to crush it with your hands.
This works very well.
Place the powdered plant matter into your 500 Ml flat-bottomed flask.
Add enough denatured alcohol solvent to completely cover the plant matter, so
that it floats freely in the solvent.
Connect your condenser to the flask. (Connecting the condenser to a water
Now, slowly heat the solvent / plant matter to reflux. Let this reflux for about
Turn the heat off your reflux equipment, let every thing cool down to room
Remove the condenser from the flask.
Now add your sulfuric acid to the solvent / plant matter solution, use one drop
sulfuric acid per 50 ML solvent used.
Replace your condenser to your flask and heat to reflux once more, leave it at
reflux for 4 more hours.
Note: this is where all the magic takes place.
turn off heat, let every thing cool to room temperature.
Note: The alcohol will have a dark black color at this point, it will seem to be
Neutralize the alcohol with sodium bicarbonate.(baking soda)
Tip: When it stops fizzing you will have a neutral or slightly basic solution.
Filter the solvent from the plant matter with the use of your funnel and filter
Note: If you are going to be doing a lot of oil production you should get a
filter flask, aspirator and a buchner funnel. See the watchers chemistry works
for information on filtering.
Add as much water as you have alcohol/THC extract.
Note: Toluene mixes with alcohol in all parts so you will not be able to
separate the alcohol/toluene layers if you don’t add this water.
Add about 1/3 as much toluene as you have alcohol/water to your flask.
Mix all this well for about 30 seconds.
Note 1: As the THC dose not want to stay in the alcohol/water layer it will move
with ease into the toluene layer.
Now use your separatory funnel to sperate the two layers. (see the watchers
chemistry works for information on this procedure.)
Note: The toluene/THC layer will be on top. Also the bottom layer should be a
light green color.
Important: If the bottom layer still has a black color you should do steps #14
to # 16 one more time, but once is usually enough.
Evaporate the toluene/THC layer till you can no longer smell any trace of
Note: when the toluene has evaporated you will have left in the bottom of your
glass baking dish a black oil with a slight spice smell.
Well people, there you have it the over night process for the
extraction/manufacture of some of the finest hash oil anywhere.
Isomerization: This process assumes you have pure
hash oil to begin with.
* Dissolve the hash oil in absolute ethanol or pure methanol in the ratio of
one gram extract to ten grams solvent. There must be no water in this
solution, as the next step is the addition of one drop of 100% sulfuric acid
per gram of extract.
* Add the acid slowly, drop by drop, stirring slowly and completely, with a
long glass stirring rod.
* Place a Pyrex pot containing the extract-alcohol-acid solution into the
refluxing apparatus and reflux for two hours. The acid will not evaporate
and will remain in the Pyrex pot. Allow to cool.
* Take the cooled solution, pour with an equal volume of water and 1/2 volume
of petroleum ether into the ether-extraction apparatus (separation funnel).
* Allow to settle, and drain the ether extract layer.
* This leaves an ether-extract-acid mix from which the acid must be purged.
To accomplish this, pour the ether-extract-solution into four volumes of 5%
sodium bicarbonate solution (1 gram bicarb. in 20 grams of water). This
will neutralize the acid, releasing CO2 and leaving a solution of sodium
* Allow this to settle into layers, then drain the ether-extract layer.
* Mix the ether-extract solution with an equal volume of pure water and let
* Drain off the ether-extract layer.
* Evaporate the ether and what remains is hash oil in which all of the
cannabinoids have been converted into THC.
Oh my, having just typed all this in, I thought to check my copy of "Cannabis
Alchemy" for a method. Not only does it concur with this method of
isomerization, it has lots of whiz hints on fractionally distilling hash oil
to get an ultra-pure product. It also claims that if you convert THC to its
acetate, it becomes very potent and psychedelic. Yow.
How To Make Honey Oil
The Boffo Butane-PVC Hash Oil Extractor
Trash leaf to honey oil in minutes
This method has its basis in a fascinating industrial extraction method known as
Supercritical Fluid Extraction. It uses totally over-the-counter butane gas (8
oz can, camping supply store)as the extraction solvent, and requires nothing
even remotely suspicious or difficult to purchase.
The only other thing needed is about $2.00 worth of PVC pipe: a section 1.5 (one
and a half) feet long and 1 & 3/4" diameter (outer diameter I believe), and two
end caps. Threaded PVC is not necessary.
For reasons not yet clear to those of us investigating these things
unofficially, butane and CO2 (and perhaps other gas/solvents with similar
ultra-low-boiling properties) selectively solvate the desirable fraction(s) of
cannabis oils, pulling out only a beautiful amber honey oil and leaving the
undesirable vegetative oils, waxes, chlorophyll, etc. behind in the plant
Even unsmokable shade leaves produce a wonderfully clean and potent gold oil
with this method.(So if you grow save those shade leaves!)
I have every reason to suspect that this would work splendidly to extract a
super-strong and tasty oil from gross, unpalatable schwag commercial pot too,
and of course, the better grade of herb you put it in, the better the resulting
1) In one of the PVC end caps, drill a single small hole in the center. This
hole should be correctly sized to snugly receive the little outlet nozzle of
your butane can.
2) In the other end cap, drill a group of 5 or 6 small holes clustered in the
center (like a pepper shaker).
3) After putting a piece of paper towel or coffee filter inside it for
filtration, put the end cap with several holes on one end of the pipe. Push it
on there real tight. This is the bottom.
4) Fill the pipe up with plant matter that has been pulverized into a coarse
powder. You want it filled, but not packed down. (Full pipe estimated at 1.5 oz
capacity, but this is a guess. I did not weigh it.)
5) Place the top end cap on the pipe. Again, push it on as securely as you can
6) Find a location outdoors with a decent breeze. You want these butane fumes to
be quickly carried away. Seriously.
6a) Mount the pipe (single hole-side up) over a vessel that can hold 300mL+.
Beakers are perfect. A lab stand and clamp are ideal for the mounting, but a
regular shop clamp or anything that can hold it sturdily is fine. (Avoid metal
if you can, to reduce the chance of sparks.) Position the bottom end of the pipe
immediately over (1-2") the receiving vessel to eliminate splatter loss.
7) Turn the butane gas can upside down and dispense the gas into the pipe via
the single top hole. A whole 8-oz can takes about 10-12 seconds to evacuate. Be
brave, swift, and careful. A spark at this moment would spell disaster since you
have basically created an incendiary explosive device that is leaking.
8) When you've exhausted the can into the pipe, back off to a nice distance and
let it do its thing. The butane moves down the pipe, extracting the cannabis as
it goes. When it gets to the bottom (~30 seconds after dispensing), it begins to
drain into the receiving vessel. Notice the pale, glowing yellow-green-gold hue
of the extract. It is obvious no chlorophyll was pulled out of the herb.
Over approximately five to eight minutes, the butane extract will finish
draining from the pipe to the receiving vessel. Maintain caution with the pipe,
however, since there is a lot of residual butane still evaporating from within
the pipe (notice the stream of fumes coming from the top hole).
When it slows down to a drop every few seconds, you can tap on the top hole with
your finger and it will help push the last of the liquid butane out (or one can
gently blow into the top hole to do the same thing). Remember, NO SMOKING,
unless you wish to immolate yourself in grand fashion.
Being very low-boiling and volatile, the collected butane will likely begin
boiling at ambient temperature.
The receiving vessel will gradually frost up as the butane cools it down,
slowing down its rate of evaporation, but you can speed this up again simply by
holding it in your hands. A better way is to set it in a saucepan containing a
little bit of warm water.
Watch the butane start bubbling madly with the increase in temperature and
marvel at its low boiling point. Again, be doing this outdoors with a nice
breeze! It takes about 20 minutes or so to allow the butane to evaporate, or
quicker if you help it along. You are left with a deep amber, almost orange oil
of amazing purity.
The best way to collect and store the oil is probably to let all of the butane
evaporate off and then redissolve the oil in some anhydrous or high-% alcohol,
and then pour this into a vial and let it sit out for a day or two to allow the
alcohol to evaporate.
Trying to transfer the oil into a small container while it is still solvated by
the butane is too risky. I learned the hard way about this, thanks to the
volatile temperament of butane.
I had filled a vial almost all the way to the top and was preparing to drop
those last couple drops in, so that cleverly, I could let the last of the butane
evaporate from the vial and the oil would all be neatly contained.
But when the last drop hit the mother lode in the vial, it changed the
temperature of the solution in the vial upward by a hair and it all super boiled
out of the vial and onto my fingers, which of course startled me and caused me
to drop the vial.
I suggest dissolving it in alcohol as I mentioned above. If you can get pure or
99% isopropanol (isopropyl), use it, because THC's photosensitivity reportedly
does not occur in isopropanol.
The final product is a deep yellow-amber oil of the highest quality, incredibly
pure and potent. I remember well some of the prime honey oil hash oils that hit
the market in the late 1970s, and this stuff stands up to (if not exceeds) any
It's amazing how this method extracts only the good fraction and leaves the junk
in the weed. But that's exactly what it does.
Note also that this oil has a somewhat higher melt/vaporization point than
traditional hash oils; the traditional dispensing method (dipping a needle or
paper clip in, getting some goop on the end, and warming it with a flame to get
it to drip off into your bowl) still works with this stuff, but it seems you
have to be more careful with it because it doesn't heat to liquid state as
quickly or in the same manner, and it can more easily be allowed to burn up on
your needle. So be careful.
Those who prefer a tincture-like preparation can of course thin the product a
little with a bit of warm high-percentage alcohol like Everclear or
90-whatever-% isopropyl, then drop it onto buds or let a joint absorb some, then
let the alcohol evaporate.
I also observed that unlike hash oil derived from traditional methods, this
product is not immediately soluble in room-temp alcohol; it needed to be warmed
before it dissolved fully.
So there it is. Spread the word far and wide: honey oil is BACK
How To Make Red Honey Oil
1) completely dry and grind material to a powder. soak material in petroleum
ether for several hours, but less than 24 hours. strain, saving the pet
ether/oil mixture... pressing out the material thoroughly to get as much
solvent/oil out of the material as possible. filter the solvent/oil mixture
through a coffee filter.
2) extract pet ether/oil mixture w/ an ~ 4% sodium hydroxide (NaOH) in alcohol
solution three times.
3) acidify the NaOH/oil mixture w/ HCl (diluted 2:1 or 3:1 with distilled water)
to pH 3. filter the acidified mixture through a coffee filter.
4) extract acidified mixture w/ pet ether three times. evaporate off pet ether
to yield red honey oil! NOTES: * this recipe works well w/ small quantities of
when dealing w/ large material quantities, replace 1) w/ ->
- dry, grind and soak material in 91% isopropyl alcohol for three days.
- strain and filter, saving alcohol/oil mixture.
- evaporate off alcohol down to ~ 250 - 300 ml of alcohol/oil mixture.
- extract alcohol/oil mixture w/ pet ether three times.
* extract = placing two solutions in a seperatory funnel, mixing thoroughly, and
allowing the two phases to separate... given alcohol & pet ether >> pet ether =
top, alcohol = bottom pet ether & NaOH soln >> pet ether = top, NaOH soln =
bottom (same for pet ether and acidified NaOH solution)
* to make the NaOH solution - mix 40 mg of pure NaOH pellets into 500 ml of
distilled water until dissolved thoroughly. then add 500 ml of absolute grain
alcohol (everclear), yielding ~ 1 liter of the sodium hydroxide solution.
* white gas can be substituted for pet ether (verified) muriatic acid (swimming
pools) can be substituted for HCl (verified) lye can be substituted for NaOH
* when dealing with leaf material, soak the material in cold water six times,
for four hours each time (24 hours total), discarding the water after each soak.
the material should be completely dried after the water soakings before
extracting with alcohol or pet ether.
Material In : Oil Out
leaves 100g : 1g
commercial 30g : 1g
flowers/trim 10g : 1g
A+++ flowers ????? have not been there yet as far as measurable quantities, but
should be better than 8:1 therefore, starting with less than 1/4 lb. of leaves
yields less than 1g of oil... when the return is smaller than 1/2 gram, it
usually sticks to whatever it is evaporated in, making storage a mess at best.
the following is recommended:
- leaf runs of 1 to 2 lbs w/ 1st extraction into alcohol
- flower runs of 1 to 2 oz. w/ 1st extraction into pet ether
* pet ether 1st extractions yield a cleaner/clearer goo.
* especially with leaves extracted with alcohol... when extracting an
alcohol/oil mixture with pet ether, the phase separation can be very difficult
if not impossible to visually identify. in such cases, measurement of fluid
volumes going into and coming out of the sep funnel is about the only way to
accurately make the separation... and even then, there may be a need to extract
more than three times and/or back washing the pet ether/oil extract with alcohol
to clean it up.
This document comes from Erowid vaults http://www.erowid.com
Paul J Jamtgaard
Posted 01 November 2002 - 09:25 PM
- Skunky Monkey likes this
Posted 04 November 2002 - 04:31 AM
- Skunky Monkey likes this
Posted 04 November 2002 - 02:33 PM
Posted 05 November 2002 - 02:29 PM
You do not need all that other shit I see listed..just ice,silkscreen,water,bucket an a mixer an some frozen weed..This makes all natural Hash..The only way to go..I don't want alot of bullshit in my smoke..Just the all natural herb..You are right Y_Not_Bud it takes alot of leaves to make a little hash..But oh it's good..:D:D Happy Growing..
Posted 10 November 2002 - 04:51 PM
Posted 24 September 2012 - 10:46 PM
Posted 24 September 2012 - 11:31 PM
If you want to make hash, (I assume you are doing this for baking/cooking purposes), you have to make it into oil or butter. I find that oil is more useful, because it blends better into foods, and unlike butter it will not dry out in the baking process, and it will not ad a salty flavor to the food. Anyway, You'll need roughly an eighth oz of marijuana, and about a cup of olive oil. Sautee the plant in the oil for about 3-7 minutes. If it starts smoking, its too hot and you have to remove the pot from the stove immediately. Any questions? email me at firstname.lastname@example.org
Do you really think THC infused cooking oil is hash?
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