A Beginner's Guide to Coco

Discussion in 'Coco Coir' started by TheWatcher, May 1, 2012.

  1. You don't need to mist unless their deficient, then yes because that is the fastest way for the plant to absorb nutrients, etc is by misting.

    Your plant at their stage basically need a good balance between moisture and air, so the roots can expand. Once they start growing you will be watering/feeding more.

    If you do want to mist the best time is when the lights first come and the temps are lower. This is when the stomata's are open and absorb nutrients etc the best.

    Sometime misting can do more harm than good...;)
     
  2. #42 sarscarab, May 7, 2012
    Last edited: May 7, 2012
    Thanks bro, great tip I knew nothing about.
     

  3. i agree with this post for the most part, and with coco, that's rare, lol! you really don't need to foliar feed now. as stated, early on in coco, no need to water/feed daily. they're just too small to be taking much of it in. personally, i don't start feeding at all in coco till i have 3 alternating internodes or i reach 11 days, whatever comes first. looks like only a couple of your plants have 3 nodes. i'd go with 1/4 strength on thte ones that are able to take it, (11 days, 3 internodes.) i would have left the t-5 myself, and backed it off if necessary. t-5's are perfect for cuts and young seedlings! and yes, you can over water in coco, especially at a young age like yours are.
     
  4. I have a ph test kit, but I don't have anything for the EC/TDS measurement. I can also on afford one meter at this time, so which one should I get? PH or EC/TDS. It will be about 2 weeks before I can afford the 2nd meter. I am thinking the TDS/EC.

    I managed to keep my hands off the watering can for 2 whole days! The plants are really light green especially at the edges and three are starting to sprout their 3rd set of leaf sets. The tallest is a whoppig 2", the smallest an inch, all this for 12 days.
     
  5. Definately EC/TDS. Ph test kit will give you a near enough ph to keep them healthy but without knowing EC you would be likely to overfeed. I use about half recommended dosage on mine to get what most people around here would call acceptable EC
     
  6. The Hanna Combo (ph/ec/tds)is the best and the only pen you will ever need. They cost a little more but, well worth the money...
    Until you get your pen feed at a lower rate(1/4-1/2) than Techaflora recommends, maybe even less till your plants start kicking in...Technaflora is a top nute for hydro but, keep some cal/mag on hand for the coco if you need to supplement.

    I used their recipe for success on a hempy grow using the recommended dose without using EC and was the best grow I ever had....

    I think that brown spot on your leaf was nute burn from misting and getting what's called the magnification effect....
     
  7. The info is appreciated. I have been looking at meters, what a selection. Everything from 9.95 to 6K dollars. It looks like it might be easier to buy a combo meter although I don't really believe in combos of anything. I was hoping to find a good meter for about 75-90 dollars. I did find a Hanna HI 98129 pH/EC/TDS for 129.00 on flea-bay, but I read the manual and need 2 different ph solutions, a calibration solution, cleaning solution and storage solution. :eek:

    Is there anything about this meter game that is simple, good, and reasonable? :confused:
     
  8. Milwaukee pH600 / Hanna Primo
     
  9. You need the calibration solution with any pen you get...The cleaning solution would be nice to have but, sure they can be cleaned with a variety of household agents and you can use tap water to store it in.
     
  10. Thanks for the heads up on these. Just bought both of these items. Have you used either one before?
     

  11. 005.jpg

    do not let the ph meter probe get dry after you use it, needs to be placed in calibration solution when not in use, the ppm needs no special storage when not in use.
     
  12. #52 sarscarab, May 9, 2012
    Last edited: May 9, 2012
    Thanks for the tips. Supposed to get them by Monday. The price of living in the country and high gasoline prices, but I'll take it.

    Guess I will have to get me a tall shot glass to hold the pH meter, the local watering hole has plenty and will never miss it. :D
     
  13. #53 sarscarab, May 10, 2012
    Last edited: May 10, 2012
    It's either 12 or 13 days from seed popping and the 3rd day since the last watering. In those 3 days everything grew about 1/2 inch. The yellowing at the center of all the healthy plant leaves is more pronounced and in fact dominates the leave compared to a nice color of green. All have two sets of leaves and two have 3 sets. Only 4 of my good seeds, from the left coast, in green cups, are still growing and 2 of them are double ugly, stunted and deformed. The other 4 in brown and black cups are of unknown, they were in a bag from my wife. I wouldn't be surprised if the person she got them grows the stuff himself.

    The plants and medium were dry so I fed them 1/4 strength technoflora nutrients for the roots and 1/8 dose of TF Grow.

    Any ideas what may have been causing the yellowing?
     

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  14. Go back to the beginning of the thread: The basics of feeding.

    The only problems you should encounter in veg are under or over feeding. In your case your plants look very hungry. If you haven't got an EC pen, then you need to find out from growers who use the same nutes as you, how to get to 1.0 EC based on ml measurements.
     
  15. #55 sarscarab, May 10, 2012
    Last edited: May 10, 2012
    So you would consider these plants to be in the vegging phase?
    My pH & EC meters should be here Mon or Tues next week. In the meantime I will search around to find out how much TF I should be feeding to equal 1.0 EC. Thanks .
     
  16. What nutes are you guys using with coco? I switched over about 6 months ago and have been using Cana. Plants are growing great and yeild is up but I've noticed it doesn't have the taste or smell I was getting using the Roots Organic soil and nutes.
     
  17. #57 sarscarab, May 10, 2012
    Last edited: May 11, 2012
    I'm using TechnoFlora line of nutes and supplements. This is my first Coco grow but I have read in this forum there are a lot of possibilities and practically everything works. Nearly each grower swears by whatever it is they are using, me I just observe and learn. Strange that your plants have lost the taste and smell. That is a very big part of it nowadays. Honestly for myself that is one thing I consider before I smoke it. Maybe some of the blades will chime in and help you out.
     
  18. #58 SCMC, May 10, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: May 10, 2012
    This is everything I can remember using in coco, in about the order I started using it. General Organics and Root's Organics Coco mix are what I like using these days. The bold stuff are usually around in my garden.

    Canna Coco A+B
    Canna Rhizotonic
    Canna Cannazym
    Canna PK 13/14
    Canna Boost Accelerator
    BioCanna BioBoost Accelerator
    Botanicare Cal-Mag Plus
    Botanicare Liquid Karma
    Humboldt Nutrients Deuce-Deuce
    Humboldt Nutrients Honey ES
    Fox Farms Grow Big
    Fox Farms Tiger Bloom
    Advanced Nutrients Sensi Bloom A+B
    Organicare Seaplex
    Organicare Huvega
    Organicare Humega
    Organicare Calplex
    Epsom Salt
    General Hydroponics Liquid KoolBloom
    Advanced Nutrients Big Bud dry
    Advanced Nutrients Bud Candy
    Advanced Nutrients Nirvana
    Botanicare Hydroplex
    Botanicare CNS 17 Coco/Soil Grow
    Botanicare CNS 17 Coco/Soil Bloom
    Botanicare CNS 17 Ripe
    Dyna-Gro Pro-Tekt
    Humboldt Nutrients FlavorFul
    Cutting Edge Solutions Micro
    Cutting Edge Solutions Bloom
    Cutting Edge Solutions Plant Amp
    Cutting Edge Solutions Mag Amped
    Cutting Edge Solutions Uncle John's Blend
    Botanicare Silica Blast
    General Organics BioWeed
    General Organics BioRoot
    General Organics BioThrive Grow
    General Organics BioThrive Bloom
    General Organics CaMg+
    General Organics BioBud


    In the future I would like to try out Dutch Master Liquid Light Gold, and the rest of their foliar program.
     
  19. Good list there. The Roots Organics line worked great in soil but I find it to be a little too shall we say Organic, for use in my current setup. Using Aqua Pots for my bloom stage and it clogs them up. With the Cana I'm also using Bud Candy but still smell and flavor have suffered. Everything has gone sort of bland. Also the Cana is about twice the cost! Will have to play around with some other lines.
     
  20. #60 TheWatcher, May 10, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: May 10, 2012
    You need one thing for this stage of growth Sarscarab, and that is a bottle of starter feed. Can you get one? Can you get formulex?



    And while I'm at it let me just drop a little hint in here about scmc's advice: Please take it with a pinch of salt. If you want to refer to it at a later point when you are comfortable growing healthy plants, then do so. But in no way is it, in my opinion, sensible or constructive.

    It is posts like that above, and the one from the other day which completely detract from the meaning of this thread.

    On it are 14 highlighted products, and I'll tell any beginner reading this, at least 10 of them you do not need in your grow room.



    Complicating your regime beyond a mere handful of products will raise the chance of problems through the roof. Check every one of my pictures and budshots in this thread and others and bear in mind that every one was achieved using no more than 3 products. Sometimes even less.

    This thread is titled "beginners guide, but these are the methods I use to this day. There is a limit to how healthy and vigorous cannabis can grow and no amount of additives have ever been proven to push that boundary beyond what can be achieved with a bare basic regime.

    Do not be under the illusion that adding epsom salts, humic acid, fulvic acid, carbs, microbes, or vitamins will improve your results anywhere near as much as getting a good solid handle on how to grow this plant to optimum health using only the basics. They never will

    You've got to understand the importance of keeping the variables to a bare minimum.
     
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