yes they are went a pale green and now more yellowish. i thought i had over watered! thanks for reply dude. peace p.s if i let it dry out wil it recover?
mushroom compost lol i got some biobizz light mix now tho , check out my grow journal man need all the help i can get haha
Aeration, aeration, aeration... Your plants look the way they do because there is not enough oxygen in the root zone. This could be caused by overwatering, lack of sufficient aeration amendment in the soil, or soil compaction (a combination of both). BTW, your plants are not going to make it through a whole growth cycle with the mushroom compost that you're using without added "fertilizers", however you decide to provide them.
I have no idea. I don't use bottled "nutes". Hence the title of the thread, "Indoor gardening without bottled nutrients".
I would suggest you do whatever is necessary even if it is using bottled nutrients. You need to decide if you're going with the living organic soil or bottled nutrients. If you decide to go with LOS then start reading this thread and gather both your knowledge and supplies while you finish off this grow. Read and learn then ask questions. You won't regret moving to organics.
I second and third that My plants are 28 days young. I'm thinking about initiating training soon, many fun different methods that can be used for a bigger yield. Topping seems to be the easiest one so I definitely will do that. Been reading much about LowStressTraining and Supercropping; very much to read about these two methods and different ways to use it. However, when reading at GC about training ones plants there seems to be a lot of different answers to WHEN the best time to start is. Depending on if it's a seedling or a clone. Many simply count weeks and other count node and internodes to decide when training begins. How do you guys reason about all of this?
Let your plants gain a little bit of strength before you start training them what you can start training them when they are very very young. You just want to be sure that they are strong and healthy first. J
So I've been having my plants in constant light (24/0) for about thirty days. When reading online many people say that after a certain period of time, it's better to switch to 20/4 or 18/6. Simply because the plants require sleep. Is this true? Can anyone back this up? Also, have you seen any differences when switching light cycles during vegetative phase?
I believe it will shock the plants less when you switch to 12/12 to flower, however it may depend on when you plan to flower. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Grasscity Forum mobile app
Is the mention functionality gone? -- What is your take on switching light cycles during the veg phase? Worth giving the plants some sleep since I run 24/0?
I run 24/0 as well - it's just easier and I've never noticed a difference. It won't hurt to switch if you wanted to though - providing that you don't get too close to 12 hours a day. J
I run 18/6 for some of my girls but I do have some that are pre-flowering that I run 24/0. Most are 18/6 though.
Aha, I see. Well maybe I should switch as it would be benecial from a financial perspective (saving kwh). It would be interesting to run 18/6 and 24/0 on two different plants of the same strain; to see if any differences could be seen during veg phase. -- I recently discovered that my plants are not doing so well, certain symptoms have presented themselves on the leaves that got me puzzled. Looking online there are many reasons that could explain this behaviour but they all have chemical nutrients in the picture like: nutrient burn and even calcium or manganese deficiency. Of course, I have taken a strict organic approach. Both my plants are about 1 month old and were transplanted to the bigger pots they are in now when they hit 2 weeks of age. Jack Diesel (sativa): Sensi Star (indica): Any thoughts?