Indoor gardening without bottled nutrients

Discussion in 'Growing Marijuana Indoors' started by jerry111165, Apr 15, 2012.

  1. I suggest going through the first couple pages of Easy Soil Mix For Beginner's and and I'm positive you'll see your questions answered.

    HaGGarD
     
  2. I agree, my grow is using that beginer mix,plus couple things along the way..dont overthink it....grow it first,everyones situation is different..adapt..theres a lot of great reading in here..

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  3. I agree with the fact that you don't need bottled nutrients. If you understand what nutes your plant needs you can mix a soil that will contain all the necessary nutes for your plant to live. This plant has been vegging for a couple months and I have never once fed it, yet it is as healthy as can be. My soil mix is:
     
    60/40 coir/peat
    gypsum, diatomaceous earth, blood and bonemeal, worm castings, vermiculite and perlite

    I guess technically by fortifying the soil I am 'feeding" my plant but the point is I don't use fancy chemicals and I get good results
     
    CANNABIS.jpg
     

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  4. Hey Jerry you wouldn't still have the plans for your flow through worm bin would ya?
     
  5. Cool thanks. Actually I was thinking of the tumbler harvester you built. Got it mixed up.
     
  6. This?
     
    11%2026%2011%20001.jpg
     
    Im sorry. We didnt make plans but just kind of "winged it". I have a sheet metal shop at work, luckily, so had the tools to work it out. 
     
    I'd be more than happy to answer any questions, but no, sorry, no plans.
     
    j
     
  7.  
    You lucky dog. A sheet metal shop comes in handy.
     
  8. Yep that's the one. Thanks I saved the pic and we'll use it for a reference and see what we can come up with.
     
  9. Hey fellow Organiacs, I was thinking... I know scary huh?
    Anyway I have lots of weeds on my land and want to make use of the first risers of the year. What I want to do is gather a bucket full of mixed plants like dandalions,thistle, mullien,spinach, several wild greens(edible too) and some freshwater seaweed.
    I would let it ferment and feed my soil/plants with it.
    Do you guys think it would be worth the time and would it work?
    I think I'll. give her a trial.
    Twas Ever Thus!
     
  10. Its a casting sifter! When I first saw it I thought you were calling a monster bingo game.

    Twas Ever Thus!
     
  11. #2632 Gandalf_the_Green, Apr 24, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 24, 2014
     
    I have no freakin doubt it will work!  As I recall... LD's instruction for most plant FPEs like this was to puree the plant material... take about 1 cup of the pureed pulp, and add it to 1/2 gallon of water.  Let it ferment for 3-4 weeks.... lid off, and as far from any habitation as possible (smells awful!).... strain it and use about 1/4 cup of the FPE per gallon of water for use on your girls!
     
    It will last 2-3 weeks in your fridge, but if you want to store it for longer, you should add some citric acid to arrest the fermentation, and it will then be stable for storage.
     
  12. Thnx GtG, Do ya think I can toss the bag of triple twenty? lol
    I was thinking bigger to use in the vedge garden too. 5 gals of ground plant matter in a 30gal barrel. why doesn't the fermentation will stop on its own like wine?
    The small batches of fermented kelp/alfalfa I've done stop or slow way down after a couple of days.
    I always use it all up so don't know how well it keeps.


    Twas Ever Thus!
     
  13. #2634 Gandalf_the_Green, Apr 24, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 24, 2014
     
    lol  if it were triple ten, I'd toss it, but triple twenty is too good a value!
     
    You know what.... I started typing out a response, and it suddenly 'clicked' for me..... or at least got a little clearer....
     
    Wine stops fermenting because all of the available sugar has been converted to alcohol and CO2.  That's what we want to prevent, is for the fermentation to progress to the point where alcohol is being formed, because this will obviously kill our plants.  So that is why anything that contains sugars or terpenes that may be converted to alcohol, the fermentation has to be arrested before the concoction goes toxic.
     
    So that automatically tells us that flowers, which almost always contain alcohol terpenes, need to have their fermentation arrested.  This is useful for pesticides and fungicides.  Alfalfa (apparently) has alcohol terpenes as well, based on the LD post below:
     
     
    mike1234 said
     
    Mike
    You have to arrest the fermentation cycle because if you do not some of the plant compounds are alcohol based (many Terpenes) and if left alone the alcohol levels can hit numbers that will kill your plants. I speak from personal experience.

    You can stop the fermentation process by adding Citric acid - available at your grocery store where they sell canning products. Or you can buy it at any homebrew store.

    Add 1 tablespoon to each 1 gallon of tea and that will take care of business. Plant roots create and use Citric acid (Krebs Cycle aka Citric acid Cycle)

    HTH

    LD

     
     
    Where it gets murky for me is why you need to arrest fermentation on Botanical teas, but not FPEs..... as I understand it, if you dump plant material into unaerated water and let it ferment, LD calls that a Botanical Tea.  But if you add EM-1 or your own lactobacillus culture, and ferment it that way, LD calls it an FPE.  I'm not 100% sure why he would say that FPEs don't need to have the fermentation arrested, but Botanicals (which essentially harness air-borne lactobacilli to get fermentation going) must have the fermentation arrested..... I dunno, this is Jerry's thread, maybe he can come in here and clear it up.
     
     
    If you're going to store these Botanical Teas (i.e. not Fermented Plant Extracts), then you might want to consider adding some Citric acid to prevent continued fermentation which can give you some unintended results/consequences. I speak from recent personal experience. Plus with the Citric acid you get additional benefits in and of itself.
    Should anyone post that they can't find Citric acid in their area then my suggestion would be to relocate to a community where running water & indoor plumbing are mandated by public code and not simply a goal.

    LD 

     
  14. Should check out gil carandang. A bit more unconventional, BUT I have from my anecdotal experience found his recipes are much more effective.

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  15. I was wondering if anyone could answer a question i have some tlo soil mix thats been cookin for about a year, i dont remember how much rock dust i mixed in i have about 5 gallons of soil left can i add a couple cups of powdered rock dust (can to much be mixed in?) If not do i have to let the powdered rock dust "cook " in the soil?[​IMG]

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  16.  
    Yes, you can add rock dust without fear that it will harm your plants. Rock dust contain minerals that are slowly broken down by the micro-herd. Think of rock dust as the 'condominium' for the bacteria. It gives them a good place to dwell.
     
    Rock dust can be applied at 4-6 cups per cubic foot of your base soil mix.
     
  17. thanks pakalolo does the soil have to re cook? Hows your pool game?

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  18. no cooking needed for RD.
    you may need to add airation to keep the mix light enough, lots of rd can make it too heavy.

    Twas Ever Thus!
     

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